Ragsf15e

I fly over to Hillsboro Oregon and Seattle a lot (in a PA46T for work), and that’s generally where you can have a forecast for 800/3 except the dew point and temp appear pretty close and then suddenly it’s 0/0 in fog. Sometimes you’re vmc at the faf but well above the fog. The real bad part is it usually hits all along I5 in Seattle, so your nearest divert is on the east side of the cascades even though there are 6 or 7 airports much closer, they all have the same fog. I’ve crossed back over the mountains twice in the last couple years flying for work. Both times the forecast was reasonably good at the destination and the ceiling just kept falling during the flight. Luckily the weather on the east side of the Cascades is night and day different. In Spokane there’s often an ice fog in winter to come home to. Thankfully it’s typically lowest in the morning so we never leave due to possibly getting ice on the ground, but it’s not fun to come back through. Finally, I’ve been to mins twice now in forest fire smoke when returning to KSFF from trips and hope never to repeat that. I saw only the lead in lights and straight down at DH on the ILS (in my Mooney). breathing was terrible. Forecasting smoke is also terrible, so figuring an alternate is much harder.

What do you do with your power when you start down?

I swear I only got one start between “slipping” and kaput, but admittedly, I had a lycoming before and wasn’t looking for it.

If I begin an approach, im happy to go to published mins as long as it’s stable. If it might be close to DH (and there’s a lead in light system), I’ll use the drawing function in ff to write the tdze+100’ altitude on the chart. Ive used that extra ~100’ several times, but I haven’t had to go around at 100agl yet as Ive always picked up the red termination bars or runway before it. I have gone around that low in the sim at annual training… it wasn’t scary there ;). In truth, a stable approach on autopilot at 90-100knots should take ~15 seconds for each 100’ down. It shouldn’t be a “blur” and you should be ready (and willing) to execute the ma as you hit the dh. Below 500’, I usually count out loud each 100’ - “500 to go, 400, 300, 200, 100, mins”. But then I fly single pilot, so it’s just me.

I think there’s different levels of slipping. My prop wasn’t turning at all until the end of a start and then it just flinched. Meanwhile, I could hear the starter turning.

As @PT20J is telling you, replacing parts will just get expensive without potentially fixing the problem. You need to have someone knowledgeable with a voltmeter troubleshoot it. You might have something as simple as a corroded or loose connection. You’ve got to check throughout the system as it could be at several different connectors.

Dunno, but I had my F for ~10 years and it started great, but I was still able to learn a new technique from someone on this board… maybe @Shadrach or @M20F? When priming, both mixture and throttle all the way in (which I already knew), the pull mixture to cutoff, THEN turn off boost pump. The fuel pressure will stay elevated. Start the engine, and when you push in the mixture after it fires, it’s a smoother transition to normal idle as the fuel pressure is already up. Now back to your question… my Continental TSIO-360mb starts with mixture rich…

Excellent, thanks. Looks like mine are exactly the same as yours.

So I have irrational fears about airplane maintenance, and I even helped on this! Can someone share a picture of how their check valves are mounted? Did we put ours back in the correct directions after cleaning them out? That smaller back one would stop oil to the turbo if it’s backwards! I think we did it right? You can see the “cap” that screws into the “barrel” on the smaller check valve.

I have an ice chest cooling unit (“B-cool” maybe?) in my hangar. We used it a lot when we lived in TX. Never since we moved to WA and had kids. It’s a bit of a chore to fill up the ice and some water before departure, but that thing was great on the ground and initial climb. It’s just a modified ice chest with a pump for water that cycles it through a radiator and a fan blowing the cold air into the cabin. If I remember, it plugged into the cigar lighter or had a battery. It’s big (and heavy when full), so we usually had it in the baggage compartment. Do everything possible to depart in the morning and cruise at 7k plus. If you’re hot in cruise, try static cling tint on the rear windows. That helps a lot. it was like this: https://www.mypilotstore.com/MyPilotStore/sep/9983?var=9986&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19746053410&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uYzKlvTUtlvVyA2CE6oHxNZkBz&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk5PtgZHtjQMVhjatBh0Q1AWhEAQYASABEgK2lfD_BwE

So I got an initial report from G&N upon disassembly of my starter adapter. It was clearly OH several times before and the parts were probably “end of life” when it was last done. The shaft is all the way ground down, so now unusable, and it was fretting pretty badly anyway. Unfortunately the two expensive gears in there are also bad (the shaft is ~$1500 and the gears are only a little less each). They searched and found oh/exchange units for ~$3k but I didn’t want to end up with another shaft that has already been oh several times. So $5500 and estimate of 4 weeks (depending on parts). Fingers crossed for sooner as this will definitely impact our summer trips. I’ll update when we have more details. Going to help tow the airplane back to my hangar tomorrow so it doesn’t have to stay in the shop.

Here comes the J-bar mafia with their bragging again…

Don’t thank me too much… as @LANCECASPER said, it’s ~$10k if your core is bad, but I guess that’s pretty close to a turbo oh these days anyway.

This got me so spun up I did some initial research… looks like there’s a PMA turbo (by Hartzell) under the Aeroforce name. I think you need the below part number, and it appears to be in stock (overhauled), but it’s expensive… Aeroforce 466642-0001

Is the housing a part that can be repaired (like an engine case) by a welder? These kind of issues scare me. There’s got to be lots of these out there on Pipers and such, no?

YGBSM. I feel bad for you. I just bought a 252 to upgrade from my F partially to limit the number of unavailable parts… here’s another one?! Have you called TCM?

Not sure exactly, but most of tge old ones have a light that’s supposed to illuminate the fuel selector. Is it pointed that way? My F had one dangling just below/behind the instrument panel, but I didn’t have the quadrant.

You could possibly still safely run LOP, but it’s unlikely to be smooth or efficient. You’ll have to get the richest cylinder past peak, by which time the leanest one is very lean and possibly not firing smoothly. You need a better spread to do it right. If nothing else is wrong, gami injectors will solve it. If you already have them, it’s cheap to fix by working with gami.

I had an inogen g5. Got it through main clinic. They asked for my pilots license. No doctor required. It worked well up to about 12000’ for two people and 15000’ for one (based on keeping pulse ox in mid 90s). It was expensive but id use it again in an NA airplane. I like my built in system for the turbo.

I renewed mine two years ago (basically a new application) and it only took about 2-3 weeks, however, they called me for the fee… no idea how much longer it would take if I didn’t happen to take that call. There isn’t any way to check status or really get help with anything. The CANPASS system has been ~50% helpful and 50% PIA for the time Ive maintained it and used it. Most egregious is the randomness with which the border agents follow their own rules. I was told in no uncertain terms that my aircraft was at risk of being confiscated because I was using CANPASS rules and the “CANPASS people don’t know what they’re doing.” Other times it was great. Good luck!

Is this true that GP can’t display traffic on the vfr sectional maps? That seems weird, but that’s 90% of my use. Displaying terminal procedures and weather is most of the rest, but Id definitely want traffic on my sectional.

The real bad failure comes if they get so bad that they compress in and block air altogether or ingest a piece big enough to block air. There’s pictures around here somewhere of one that was duct taped many times and who knows how old. It closed itself off and the engine quit. It’s not a part you want to fail catastrophically (and that’s definitely rare).

Just leave it closed if you don’t like it. There is a way to close it up on the early J models that didn’t really get any mp increase from it, and it’s basically just a plate over it. On an E/F, you’d still have the boot though. FWIW, I measured speed difference in cruise with mine open and closed and it was ~3 knots. I used it all the time in clear air and didn’t have any issues in 10 years with my F.

It might also depend on the part. What are you looking for specifically? I have order through an MSC and received parts from the factory within a week recently. I also have a part on order with a 35 week lead time. Just call Lasar or Top Gun and see. You can also get some from salvage yards. Depends on what you need.

Good point. They are ~$800 each (from the last order). I know it seems like a lot, but order 7 to get the ball rolling and then sell them at cost plus shipping. I think you’ll sell them easily.