Ragsf15e

Clearly there will be areas more difficult to access, but I think Id want to check power at the sonoalert just in case it’s that vs the actual stall warning switch. You can also check power at the circuit breaker for the stall warning. If all that checks good, you’re going to have to access the switch anyway, so maybe time to do the tougher job. Im guessing the maintenance folks didn’t go through all that.

We all pay for it through taxes. Even the pax on the airlines. At least that’s how I see it. Is there some special ATC fee that just airlines pay?

I think I’d spend avlot of time with a voltage meter at both ends of the circuit checking all the connections before replacing anything… Its really easy for maintenance folks to tell you something is broken and we must replace that thing. It’s harder to actually troubleshoot what is causing the problem in the first place.

That’s how my family packs too. I thought of making a false floor in the baggage compartment to decrease tge available room by about 6” because they would be forced to take less stuff that we never need anyway!

To add to what @PT20J said (he already got the most important parts), the compression checks are pretty “flukey” (that’s a technical term). They can change a lot based on who did them, how hard they tried and what state the engine is in - hot, warm, cold. The usual method for “fixing” a failed compression check (I understand yours passed) is to fly the airplane and do the check again on the hot engine. That gives the best results. Then if it’s still leaking, you can slowly tweak the prop to find the closed position on the valves and listen for where the leak is coming from. Then, if it’s leaking from the rings (oil filler port), you don’t go lapping valves. Maybe ring flush or whatever. If it’s leaking at a valve, replacing rings won’t help. This id why lapping valves in your case seems strange?

Im curious about the new shafts… are they the only thing that gets replaced or are there other various pieces behind the panel that enable them to fit?

It’s gotta be on the instrument panel side. The end of tgat cable is in a terrible spot just below #2 cylinder and on the other side of the oil cooler. Mine came loose there once after the lower cowl was off and my mechanic was inventing some curse words. I’ve never had to mess with the switch though.

Also, when you say “nav function” what do you mean? If you use the stec to track gps course through a gpss, it should be in heading mode. In fact, I haven’t used anything except heading in a long time. I suppose if you were actually going to track to/from a vor or if you want it to track a localizer, you would need a different mode, but otherwise it should be heading. When gpss is active it will follow the gps. When it’s not, it follows the heading bug. The altitude issue is interesting. Mine is real good as long as im trimmed reasonably. Maybe check with the folks @MikeOH mentioned. There is a static connection in there feeding the stec “computer”. Wandering off altitude makes me think that’s leaking?

Aeromotors might even have an exchange one they could just ship you while waiting on your core.

I’m curious about your STEC-30 issues too. If you go garmin, the advice from @LANCECASPERwas spot on. Decide if you want/need a full panel redo. If you want full glass, do G3x. It’s certified and real nice. You will have a g5 or gi275 as backup. If you want a little less surgery/money, you can just install 2xgi275s in the existing ADI and HSI holes. Either solution will work well with the gfc500. I have 2xg5s and they are nice, but I got them before gi-275 was available. Id go that route now.

I have used the Novus level 1-3. Don’t expect miracles, expect to use some elbow grease, but that’s what I would do as well. At least it’s made for plastics…

I think I’ve noticed some differences with the cg too (with trim always set at TO), but only if the cg is real far forward or back.

I thought the standard Mooney technique was to start the takeoff roll and just hold that “5lbs” of pull until liftoff and then adjust to desired pitch for climb. I don’t know exactly what 5lbs is but it seems to work pretty well in my airplane (to flaps and to trim). @PT20J beat me to it by mere seconds! And with much more detail.

I think your J cowl and especially the TN are adding the most significant amount to your TAS. Possibly the windshield works in combination with the cowl/TN, but I haven’t seen anyone else with good data before/after showing a significant increase from the windscreen alone. The TN you have is a very desirable upgrade. I wish it was available!

I’ve got an older Yaesu. It’s well built and has lasted but the user interface is not intuitive. Actually, I find it barely useable without the manual, which probably isn’t what you want in a backup.

I see @Igor_U answered with his thoughts, I’ll give a different view. I have an F with the 201 windshield and side windows mod. I don’t know why you’d do the oil cooler relocate. Solution in search of a problem. I think the side windows are nice but what do they really do for the airplane? Now we come to the 201 windscreen… it’s much more sexy than the standard and apparently makes the cockpit feel more roomy? I haven’t experienced that as I haven’t flown a vintage windshield. However, the 201 mod removes all access to the back of the instrument panel which makes any panel work, hydraulic fluid reservoir filling, circuit breaker issues a real PIA. Im also not convinced it added any speed. It looks like it should but mine is certainly not faster than stock and it’s pretty well sorted out. It does help prevent water leaking on the back of the panel, but that’s preventable anyway. So if I was you, I might not wait on lasar, and I’d get my airplane flyable!

Yeah, that’s fair (isa temp dev). I included the temp but was too lazy to look up isa. It’s 0c at 7500’, so I was isa +16c. The other thing that can be counterintuitive is that you can get higher cylinder temps at higher altitudes even in an NA engine. The air is much thinner as you go higher, so even though it might be cooler and you’re making less power, you can still end up with warmer chts just because you can’t cool them as well with the less dense air. I find that effect pretty noticeable by about 7000’ and above with the mooney, especially when it’s also hot.

Ha! No, I have a sensorcon mounted at eye level on the canopy bow. I should take that one down, it’s old.

I took pictures of my engine temps running ROP and LOP today at 7500’, warm OAT (at least for Washington). I have the same Lasar cowl closure. I’m thinking your temps are pretty normal. (I’m in “normalize”, so the bars look even, but look at the actual values) 100 ROP ~10 LOP

Yes, they are the same length. There are generally 3 lengths, the short bodies (D,C,E) up through about 1975. The mid Bodies (F,J,K) and then the long bodies (Bravo, Acclaim, Ovation, Eagle). The 231,252, etc are versions of the K. Don’t worry, your English is much better than our French.

This one is the gps-13r at khio:

I’ve seen/flown a bunch of approaches that let you use lower visibility minimums (although they are only applicable to some operators) if you have hud, flight director or autopilot to DA. So, while nice, the hud might not get you much you don’t already have… unless it has a gunsight. That I would pay for.

Yes, mine too, same mod. That being said, the remaining opening isnt optimized like a J model which keeps temps a bit closer. Yours are actually a little more even than mine. My 3 is hotter due to the known issue with the fins (or lack) against the back baffles but it depends on which cylinder is leanest or richest.

Wasn’t his gear down for that whole video? Seems like a lot of drag could be relatively quickly removed…

For a guppy mouthed vintage Mooney, those temps are actually pretty even and not actually that warm.