Ragsf15e

We’re all kind of telling you the same/similar thing, but potentially not clearly... be careful with multiple conversions - mph to knots and TAS to IAS. In fact, IAS may be nice to know, but it’s almost irrelevant in cruise. You need your TAS to make sure you’re meeting performance (engine, drag, etc). You need your Ground Speed to make sure your fuel plan is working. Foreflight is generally set up for knots and it doesn’t care about ias. You input true airspeed in knots (although I think you can set it for mph). Most aviation is knots so I’d recommend that even though your poh is in mph like mine. If you plan a flight, ForeFlight will then use forecast winds at your planned altitude to compute ground speed. Build a basic ForeFlight profile for a few altitudes and rich/lean of peak. Say 5,500, 8,500, and 11,500. That’s 6 performance profiles right there. Use the profile closest to your planned cruise numbers - ie if I plan to cruise at max power at 10,500, I’ll use my 11,500 rich of peak profile. If you start with a cruise profile ~7,500, 150 kts (true), 10gph you’re gonna be really close for most normal cruise settings.

Aspen units are used as backup for the G1000 Meridian I fly at work. You could probably get field approval to do it if you really want.

The Mooney charts are notoriously optimistic for cruise. If you have a good clean E, you might see just over 150kts TAS in cruise. More likely, plan for 148 kts TAS at 10gph. That will be a starting point and you can adjust from there. The adjustment won’t be much. Right now your foreflight profile from above actually has you slowing in the descent... lots of techniques on this, but no reason if you actually want to go fast. Leave cruise power, trim down for 500fpm descent. Only pull power if required to remain below Vne or enter the pattern (no turbulence). Foreflight descent should be something like 170kts, 10gph. I fully understand someone with an E is going to swear they get 180kts on 8gph, but start close to my numbers above and make very slight adjustments. You’ll be in good shape.

Ouch, that doesn’t look good. On the noise front, Ive been flying with our twins since they were a few months old. You can do it safely. I have an M20F, and it’s pretty loud. At first we used foam earplugs cut to size with “baby bubs” headset over top. As soon as they were old enough, 2 1/2?, we went to a junior size headset. You can even get junior size noise canceling if you want. As babies, it’s a struggle to keep hearing protection in/on, but it can be done. With the headset, they want it on to talk (usually over ATC while you’re getting a clearance), or you can plug them into an iPad movie. Thats an easy 2 hour flight.

Ouch. Glad I don’t live there anymore. Really like to visit though!

Got the same thing! Made me think I forgot to pay for 2020... but alas, olympia is just looking for a loan.

Also, if you’ve already got a 430w in the panel, you’re much more likely to repair it, get a used one or go avidyne 440 because those options require almost no installation. A 650 is a different beast. If I had nothing, I’d get a 650. Since I already have a 430w, I’d send it to garmin for repairs.

Yeah, I got just under 2,000 hours, all operational. It was awesome, good time to be a fighter pilot, but P-51 and Rhino would be favorites in my logbook if they were there! Sorry about the thread drift... the F is awesome! I have a 1968. Solid IFR platform. Simple, reliable systems. Good useful load. As “economical” as GA is gonna be these days. I regularly fly my family of 4 over 500nm to my parents and it sure beats the airlines. Make sure someone knowledgeable looks real hard for corrosion as that’s a show stopper. Have them do Sb208 checks and look at the spar real good. I don’t currently use an msc for maintenance, but I have been to a few of the good ones, and I’d definitely recommend a quality msc for the prebuy.

Love the Phantom in your avatar... did you fly it? Awesome airplane!

Any idea if they had followed the leveling procedure in the stc the first time? I wonder how close that will get it or if, like yours, it could still be way off?

I’ll be interested as well. Mine is getting 2 installed right now. I do know the primary AI is supposed to be on the master so you can turn off the avionics master and still have power to it. Not sure about the HSI. The leveling procedure is in the stc. Supposed to level the airplane on the ground, adjust G5 to level and then it’s set. It’s not adjustable after that, at least not easily by the user. Even if you level it in “cruise”, you’ll find that it’s off when you cruise at different indicated airspeeds - ROP, LOP, or even at different altitudes as that will change the aoa a bit. I wonder if the shop leveled his properly? 4 degrees seems like a lot.

I would’ve really liked to know what she’d true out at in cruise!

Light weight for sure, right?

Yeah the av-20 is a good option for that kind of space. Several MSers have one. The AOA function isn’t good, but the attitude is fine and a good backup to a single screen.

Was the localizer needle steady? Missed was probably the best option, but with solid loc needles you could have descended to localizer mins to see if you break. out. Like I said, missed maybe best option to get away from the ground to sort out the issue. You gotta be real high to get a false indication. More likely a reception or transmission issue. My local ILS at KSFF will S turn you down final like a big dog. It’s FAA checked and passes, but it’s sporty with a good autopilot that tries to stick right on the line (gfc 700)! Some of them have some gremlins...

AV-20s is currently available norsee, so you could potentially use that right now as a good, albeit non-required, backup.

True, and I know this doesn’t apply to the OP, but if I do it this way, i can’t log it for currency.

T&Gs at night, scary. I like the ILS at night, but when I have to, I like the stop and go. Usually not a lot of traffic at night. I have a long runway in KGEG, and it gives you time to reset... like set the flaps if required.

Thanks, good info. So you did this or had it done? I’d like to get rid of my slightly rusty brownish nuts on the wing attach bolts. was it fairly straightforward? thanks!

Ok, so let’s say I did this, could I then replace the slightly corroded nuts and/or bolts? Do you know part numbers and wherr to find em? Hopefully not from the factory...

Agreed. Didn’t have any on hand, so I ordered lps3 and some really good duct tape. Gonna go back in and do it right.

Ok, so I inspected them at annual and the nuts are lightly rusted, bolts good, sprayed LPS 2 on them, IA wasn’t concerned. But holy cow, the tape that “seals” below that outside wing/fuselage trim piece was 50 years old and turning to dust. My IA had me use duct tape and that nasty black 3m caulk strip to seal under the trim, but the caulk strips are a little thick to fit under there. The trim isn’t quite flush. How is that supposed to be sealed?? Seems like those attach bolts would see a constant stream of water with any precip. Maybe 3M 50 tape?

I do have the newer (slower) gears... but to be honest, I lost count. It was a lot. I doubt I would remember to count in flight. Luckily both indicators worked!

I agree with the floor indicator, but you should also have the normal green light with manual extension if possible (1968 F). I just did my annual and did the manual extension. Got through 20-30 cranks, floor indicator looks about right, no green. IA under the plane says, give it a couple more, not quite there... three more cranks, green light comes on. All is well. Floor indicator is like measuring millimeters with a yardstick. I’d trust it if it’s all I had, but the green should also work if there’s power in that circuit.

Curious, what’s “slightly high” and what kind of engine monitor are you using?