Yetti

Replacing hoses is an preventive maintenance item that pilots can do per the FAR. We got the Precision Hose Technology full kit out of Tulsa. So far I have been impressed with the fit. Pay the money for the internal fire sleeve and I believe the hoses don't have a useful life limit. It's not hard, just time consuming. The pump to injector line in the picture took about an hour because of the Adel clamp attached to the oil pan bolt.

Oh and 1985 was a good year for fuel lines

Sometimes it is good to drop bolts cause then you have to look for them and find other things Sure it is just the tell tale drain when the pump goes south, but it would be nice to have that fuel telling you to change the pump. Of course this was during replacement of the brake tubing between the reservoir and the parking brake. And the tubing was the wrong size 3/8 instead of 1/4

I used Rustoleum with primer inside. The one with the fancy spray trigger in a Satin Nickle finish. I am only a couple weeks into the durability test, but so far I think it will last. On the larger panels, there was some weird coverage issues out in the sun, but I can't see them when reinstalled. As with most Rustoleum I let it dry for a good 12 if not 24 hours before handling. The only time I use Krylon is if I need it dry quick.

Engines are a crap shoot. You make your bets and roll the dice. run them till they make metal in the filter. differential compressions numbers are your friend here. I would rather buy a not so working plane that you have to go through and then know the history rather than a working plane that you will find out its history. With all those Laser mods at 5-10 knots each, it should do 300 mph.

When I had my seats out to put on the new seat belts, I noticed the rear rollers were more worn than the front, so I rotated them. Should help the seat from dragging. A .250 drill bit will clean out the locking holes will probably help,

I was OK with the cloth so went with it. You may ping the ebay link and see if he can do it. I am thinking of buying a leather hide and some alum sheet to redo the lower carpet panels. Can't beat the smell of leather.

for the rear baggage placard, I just taped over it and painted. My wife just bought a vinyl printer so I will probably remake some of the placards with it. I think spruce or Chief has the full set of placards.

Following this thread with interest. Currently redoing my interior. My side windows are fine, but the front is a bit milky. I have the 3 part Novus cleaning kit so I will let you know how it goes on the front window. I pulled off some of the plastic panels and painted with Rustolum Nickle Silver and they look pretty sharp. The carpet is out and cleaning the glued down foam off the floor. I bought the windlace off ebay for the baggage compartment http://www.ebay.com/itm/STITCHED-HEADLINER-WINDLACE-FORD-FALCON-CHRYSLER-GM-CHEVROLET-GREY-GRAY-/111623914977?vxp=mtr 7 feet and an hour standing over the plane will do you.

What are you using for the carpet panels? Kydex over nylon carpet?

If you have a handheld laser thermometer you could warm it up, then check exhaust temps. If you have a cooler one start pulling plugs there first. Take your 30 dollah inspection camera and look around for leaks on the side it it leaking

We won't be quite that fastidious of repainting everything, but touch up paint and replacing Adel clamps where the rubber is hard and rubbing on the engine mount will be accomplished. So far I think a pound of tie wraps has been removed. Some aluminum polishing will also occur. Who knows that loose wire hanging may be re attached to the CHT probe. It is interesting to know what an "annual inspection" can "miss". The good news is a trust worthy plane can be had with a little elbow grease.

On an 20F IO 360 A1A it is about 2 hours to pull the cylinder by a very experienced AP with a very novice helper Based on what is involved, I would doubt that I would let someone pull a cylinder on a prebuy. It puts the plane back into the "needs careful hours above an airport before it can be trusted again" category We will see how many hours to put it back together.

Water in the reverbulating framulator

FIFI

The EMP will take out every integrated circuit that has not been hardened. The good news is your engine will keep running due to the 1950s technology.

learned something this weekend that the p leads need to shielded. The shield at the ferrule will become un soldered. Some people will do a work around and run another ground wire from the shield to another screw.

But what about the drag created by the open hole on the wing? Not to mention all the water going up into the wing.

My wife got one of those vinyl printers... I think the first thing I am going to make is Red "Danger Jet Blast" for the stall vane and yellow and black "Rescue" arrows for the Starboard side

338 is the larger size for the cap A bit of Jet Lube after some emery cloth to clean things up. Should also get a couple of new cotter pins. If it is the first time you are doing them, it may be that the certified mechanic used the wrong size cotter pin. Some may say a stainless cotter pin it possibly better for the type of liquid environment they are going in. You are inspecting them every time you fly... right.

PM me an address I have a bunch

lots of shark bite fittings that make it come apart. Assemble in the wing

Don Maxwell article... says permetex 2 for screw leaks

Ok stripper expensive. Got it. So $100.00 and you are in business tank and pump. I am all for building stuff but cheap single use Chinese tools are good too. You can spend that much on welding rods these days. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-gallon-parts-washer-with-pump-60769.html