M20S Driver

Don Maxwell advises against running the tank dry. He stated that a marginal "O"ring in the fuel selector will allow air to leak into the line and disrupt the fuel flow from the tank with fuel. A couple of gallons in the tank will prevent the leak. Did anyone experience this? Does running the low boost pump solve this potential issue?

Wow... 1990's? I was not born yet. Just kidding-- I was flying then Please see see the updated info and my correction in the post before yours. My take away is to keep it clean and covered. see below from the post: Protecting Tires From Chemicals and Exposure: Tires should be kept clean and free of contaminants such as oil, hydraulic fluids, grease, tar, and degreasing agents which have a deteriorating effect on rubber.

Thanks PT20J. This is very informative. Protecting Tires From Chemicals and Exposure: Tires should be kept clean and free of contaminants such as oil, hydraulic fluids, grease, tar, and degreasing agents which have a deteriorating effect on rubber. Contaminants should be wiped off with denatured alcohol, then the tire should be washed immediately with soap and water and inspected for surface damage such as blistering or softening. When aircraft are serviced, tires should be covered with a waterproof barrier. Tire coatings or dressings: Goodyear adds antioxidants and antiozonants to the sidewall and tread to help prevent premature cracking from ozone and weather exposure. There are many products on the market that are advertised to clean tires and to improve appearance and shine. Since many of these may remove the antioxidants and antiozonants, we do not endorse any of them unless the tires are to be used for display purposes only. Aircraft tires, like other rubber products, are affected to some degree by sunlight and extremes of weather. While weather-checking does not impair performance, it can be reduced by protective covers. These covers (ideally with light color or aluminized surface to reflect sunlight) should be placed over tires when an aircraft is tied down outside. Store tires away from fluorescent lights, electric motors, battery chargers, electric welding equipment and electric generators, since they create ozone which can have a deteriorating effect on rubber.

No. I only have done Armor All on the side walls a few times in the past two years. Sounds like it helps if I do it more frequently covering the whole wheel.

My Flight Special II nose wheel shows cracks in the center grooves after two years and 150 hours. Is this normal? I double checked the pressure and it was right (49psi). I also checked a few planes (various brands) at the airport and only found another Mooney with cracks but it did not look as bad. I will replace it before the next flight.

link did not work for me. Copy and paste works fine Great clip. Thanks.

I accidentally broke one today. I found the 60/1 on ebay. I have one spare already so feel free to outbid me if you need to get them. my maximum bid currently is $66 for two but the current bid is $61. They list $5.00 for shipping.

Thanks Don. I have been using the first paragraph as a golden advice for many years from your landing CD. The second one makes perfect sense so I call it another golden advice which is easy to follow

My CHT spread is about 35 deg, so I set the coldest one to 330 deg ROP and hottest one is around 365 to 370 deg. With 20-40 deg LOP, I would be lucky to make it over 320 deg on the coldest cylinder at 65% power. Here is my favorite part of the PT20J's article: Hot Side: Run your engine hard, at least occasionally, 65-75% ROP or LOP enough to just stay out of the GAMI ‘Red Box’ (www.advancedpilot.com/redbox.html) and Cylinder Head Temperatures (CHTs) below 400°F. These will maximize combustion temperatures and minimize lead deposit build-up on your exhaust valve stems. The ideal range for CHTs is from 325°F-380°F. A lower CHT is fine if you are at a higher power setting.

I did something similar after listening to Mike Busch's webinar. I am targeting 330+ in Cruise. This works fine in ROP but LOP is a challenge for a couple of cylinders that stay below 330. I am a bit uncomfortable going to 360. I am sure we will hear from guru's on this topic

While a new autopilot (G500) may be very exciting, my Stec-30 does everything that I need. I am ok with doing a few power adjustment here and there to maintain the glide slope

We just finished flying our Traeger where it was smoking at 180 ROP and 350 ROP in cruise The flight plan is below: Smoked Turkey ROP

A friend of mine who has his Cessna in the same row told me that the driver came through the fence on the tower side (opposite side of the hangers). My guess is that he crossed the runways to get to the hangers.

+1 for additional safety. I will have to upgrade to a JPI 900 potentially in the next few years. I am wondering if JPI has a similar feature to monitor the MAGs? If not, I will keep it on the right panel.

My Mooney with 310 HP STC has one too. Redline is 2700RPM.

Thanks but this is not the answer to the question that I asked. My question is more about the advantages of the different methods. However.... I bought Don's Landing Video a few years ago and have been using it. I was at 2700lbs landing on a short runway and Don's table shows 80 as approach speed minus 5 for short field and minus 5 for every 300 lb below gross weight. This makes it about 80-13.3=66.7 kts. Add a 50% gust factor which is 3.5 kts and you get 70.2 kts. I was coming in about 70-73 give or take.

Let's discuss the short field landing with a crosswind I flew to Oceano ( L52) on Sunday landing on runway 29er. The runway is 2315 feet long and 50 feet wide. Winds were from 220 to 260 at 9 gusting to 16. I came in around 70 kts since I was the only one in the plane and gradually pulled the power back whiled making a few small cross wind corrections and chopped off power after flare, right before touch down. It worked fine but is there a better way? When I first did my transition training, the short field was always power off. While I was at the airport, I noticed another Mooney and a Bonanza both came in a bit faster and chopped the power over the fence. Both very seasoned pilots. I have done both methods but feel more comfortable with power on in gusty days but not sure if engine power versus carrying more kinetic energy (faster speed) makes a big difference . My question to high time Mooney members is to comment on these two approaches and if for any reason one may be better than the other? Driver

I used many procedures and the one that works the best for me is the one in the POH: Throttle at Idle Mixture full rich Low Boost ON and Start immediately. Advance the Throttle slowly after a few blades and if all the way in, pull back to idle slowly.

Please don't make this the beginning of the end of Mooneyspace as we know it. I love this site but agree that politics and personal opinions in the form of comments or jokes don't belong here. They don't do anything for my Mooney or yours.

I fly out of KPAO which is less than 2400 feet and I had to do my landing 3 days after buying the plane. I did my first 10/15 landing in KPAO with power off over the fence and on the right speed with full flaps and speed brakes. Winds and even winds with a little cross wind component were a big help. Don Kaye has a landing video and some literature that I found to be a gold mine in helping me.

Long body attachment looks different.