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Hello Mooney People, Just had good top overhaul for IO550 AFTER 1100 HOURS. Six factory new cylinders nicely done. using straight mineral oil and have put 16 hours on new cylinders. Fliing at 75% power and intermittent very to 65 % power. Enging running very smoothly. Still number #4 cylinder EGT runs 100 degrees over others running at 75 percent power running ROP. Thinking might be bad probe??? What else would cause one EGT cylinder #4 to run hotter? Now have 16 hours since work was done and plan oil change and analysis and will carefully cut open oil filter. Look for tiny metal sparkles. Oill consumption stable now. Thinking time to go back to AD oil. Would love some opinions.... Thanks Alan N913ND Ovation KVNC

tha'ts what they do with airplane engines, if it could run at 5k rpm it would put out massive hp also., no controversy here fuel+spark = hp. add a turbo and things get interesting, even that DOG of a ford v8 posted earlier would put out much higher numbers at lower rpm. someone talk diamond into selling their diesel heres a chart for my pedestrian ecodiesel

When and if you get around to buying exterior screws, I second this advice. There just aren't that many different types of screws on the exterior of an M20F, and it's not that hard to get the exact part numbers from the IPC. The kits always seem to be a bit off, and even if you had a perfect kit it's not like the kit itself tells you which screws are really supposed to go in which panels.

You can get fine interior trim screws anywhere. Two months after I bought my F, I flew to Airventure. I went to the fly market with some sample screws and interior washers and bought a bunch dirt cheap. I then spent an evening in the north 40 sweating my baguettes off replacing every interior trim screw.

Fuel distribution along with a slight throttle reduction helps… -Don

A lot! -Don

What's the idea with partial carb heat? 148 KTAS is great!

And… how many knots is that fancy @Sabremech cowl worth???

That was before I added FF. I averaged 7.2 GPH in that flight with a touch of carb heat… ~148 knots true in cruise... -Don

These are all knock off's. I don't believe you can but factory made gear tools anymore, only used original ones. Even the one that LASAR sells are knock off's. The angle pictured here does match the factory original but a different angle doesn't affect the torque but it may allow a longer arm wrench to be used without interfering with an inner gear door. Mine just barely clears the inner door but coming straight out makes it easier to pull the desired load IMO - so I prefer this orientation.

Keith, Who made these? Why is the MLG tool different then original? I see the square hole for the wrench is rotated 45deg which, in my view changes the applied torque and the measured value is not correct anymore. Regards.

did you have carb heat on? I like your 0 FF,,did you have your CARB heat on? Here is mine the other day at either 8 or 9000 feet...

My C @ 9000 WOT (~21 MAP, 2400 RPM ) or key # 45

I know EGT's really don't have a red line but in the O-360 in a C what would be highest number you would want to see even if CHTs are at or under 400?

Starlink Mini requires a minimum of a 60W power source but actual draw is more like 30W-40W while in use and quite a bit less when idle.

Just get a high capacity power bank like this. I run a Starlink mini and charge all devices on it simultaneously. I have a smaller power bank in my kneeboard pocket that plugs into my iPad with a 6 inch cord.

Are they running at 2700 RPM WOT. Why would you put in an engine capable of 400 HP and run it at 200 HP??? And car engines run less that that power. IIRC the Tesla cruses at something less than 20 HP. " For example, a Model 3 might use around 10 kW (13-15 hp) on a flat road at 40 mph or 15-25 kW (20-34 hp) at 60-70 mph" Realizing that best efficiency is at WOT due to things like pumping losses.

Yes, they do that by retarding the timing and reducing power. So that hot day at higher density altitude, you get even less power that normal. Car engines use all that tech because they run at idle to very high RPM. Our engines run a a few different RPM and things don't change much or rapidly.

If the engine is making enough heat, that type of cooler can produce enough thrust to cancel the drag it creates, so you wind up getting the cooler for free. Liquid cooling does add maintenance, weight and and additional failure modes, though.

Check out the drag inducing radiator on this Kawasaki concept. The good news it can double as a belly saver during gear-ups! Kawasaki Aero Piston Engine | Kawasaki Motors, Ltd.

The fuel pump has two diaphragms for redundancy. There is a drain line between the diaphragms that should exit behind the left cowl flap. It's a good preflight item to check this line as it should be dry. It can be wet with fuel or oil depending on which diaphragm has failed. Be sure you are checking the correct hose. There should also be hoses for the intake manifold drain (sniffle valve), the crankcase breather and perhaps the vacuum pump in the same area.

OMG I forgot: How can we forget the Porsche PFM 3200 - an inferior engine from a lot of "smart guys" And Toyota tried to adapt a Lexus V-8 for GA - the 360hp FV2400-2TC- Toyota is cleared to produce piston aero-engine | News | Flight Global Reportedly certificated but never commercialized. Reportedly Honda looked the possibility and passed - developed their turbine instead. And Kawasaki is diddling around. It will be brilliant packaging hanging that off the nose of a Mooney....

All M20 models through the M20J have trim assist bungees (later models have a different system not relevant to this discussion). The Mooney trims primarily by adjusting the angle of incidence of the horizontal stabilizers which is a common trimming method used on many airplanes. What makes the Mooney different is that rather than adjusting the horizontal stabilizer itself (like a Piper Cub, Cessna 180 and many jets) the Mooney stabilizer is rigidly attached to the empennage and the trim, through a jackscrew arrangement, pivots the entire empennage. Since the trim has to move a considerable amount of structure, it has to have a lot of mechanical advantage to keep trim forces within reason. But, that also means that it would take a lot of turns of the trim wheel to adjust the stabilizer angle through the range necessary for all trim conditions. So, the bungees are added to add an additional force to the elevator to assist trimming so that the stabilizer doesn't have to move as much. The bungees also act as centering springs on the stick which improves longitudinal stability. You can see the effect of the bungees if you move the trim while sitting on the ground. With the trim set to the takeoff position, the elevator should be approximately aligned with the stabilizer. If you set full nose up trim the elevator should move trailing edge up. If you move the trim full nose down the elevator should move trailing edge down. The TCDS (and service manual) will have rigging information for adjusting the bungees. I would check this before doing anything else.

Great responses, thank you! The elevator is perfectly in line with the horizontal stab on the ground. I am definitely not in favor of unnecessary maintenance and will take all these answers to the hangar on Thursday. My main goal at the moment is to locate the oil leak source. My A&P mentioned it might be the fuel pump diaphragm but we'll clean it up first, then run it and see if we can source it. On our ferry flight from Spokane to eastern Montana we only were down half a quart, hardly anything to worry about.

Wasn't it the Twin Bos that had a couch in the back? Lots of things got spread back there . . . .