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It seems like for the past few months we've heard this whine or whistling, usually after flight and after refueling with a warmer engine. It can be heard at lower rpm. I noticed it the last time after startup that it didn't immediately start the whine until a few seconds after startup. Checked vacuum pump and it is not the cause. Can't seem to locate where it's coming from. No unusual engine performance and the CHTs are normal across the range as far as we can determine. Here is a recent video. You can hear it better when the engine is lower rpm. Better to listen with headphones on. Any ideas?

Have you done a Gami lean test? If so, what was the FF difference between the 1st and the last to peak?

Above 8K I fly at peak and you cannot hurt it at that altitude with the mixture. My EGTs are closer together while ROP but they peak individually at much wider spread and this will definitely affect the reading while 25LOP. Assuming both mags, wires and plugs are performing nominally, and the injectors are clean, the absolute EGT numbers do not matter. I aim for 10 LOP at lower altitudes. As previously stuggested, try to get the fuel flow from first to peak to last to peak as close to 0.0 as possible. 0.5gph will likely run well, but the closer your spread the smoother it can potentially run while LOP and also generate optimal HP. If one or two are very lean compared to the others, you will give up more HP while LOP and it does drop off quickly. We swapped out the injectors for the highest and lowest fuel flow and went from 0.5 to 0.2 consistently and often they peak simultaneously. I am also happy with 143kts @ 8.6gph and 2450. Can easily see 155 while ROP, but it’s not worth it to me.

The factory stuff is uncoated. Not sure I would want the coating breaking loose since some of it is on the unfiltered side, although I doubt it would.

I can get that for you. David

Well it was really strange what happened. The mechanic took the plane, when he started it repeatedly there was no issue. I can’t really explain what happened. Maybe they tightened a ground or something but they claim there wasn’t a problem. It hasn’t had the issue since…

Don't throw parts at the problem. Check voltages at each point in the system, under load, if possible, and at temperature. Find your voltage drop. Having had this problem in a Cherokee, found what was essentially a bad ground cable. Tested fine for continuity, but not resistance. Replaced with a nice set of Bogert cables, and starting problems disappeared. You've already thrown a battery and starter at the problem, and while you could have gotten a bum starter, chances are the problem is someplace else. A Fluke Multimeter is your friend.

That decision just saved you unimaginable expense and heartache.

So would you not want to just find the proper duct material at a better price. Not sure this is it, but looks to be correct. this is 4" https://hosewarehouse.com/products/flexaust-ns-4-inch-air-and-fume-duct-hose-12ft?srsltid=AfmBOor7dt7zyncFUCJXtj0TO_3EOpPv2xEh9zguC8K7Ii0lQqJ2-jjj Comes in 12 foot lengths. Group buy? Only rated to 550 degrees. https://www.ducting.com/product/silico-550-nomex/

Honestly, if it doesn't work I'd move on to rubbing compound, followed by polishing compound and wax before I used nasty chemicals that might really damage the paint. If the stains are that 'deep' I think rubbing them out will be a lot easier to control the location and amount of paint removed.

I tried just spraying WD40 on it and no luck. 100LL is next. I’m afraid it won’t get the deep stubborn long time stains but maybe I’m wrong. Hopefully I am!

I may give that a try. Thx!!

It sucks when you’ve done nothing wrong but still draw the short straw. I’m thinking this NOS was built by Mooney, and then languished on some MSC’s inventory (perhaps for decades) until it ended up on eBay. Obviously the factory’s quality control was lacking at the time it was manufactured. There could be something nefarious involved, but I doubt it. This isn’t a deal breaker. You’ll get it straightened out and 10 years from now it will almost surely be just a distant memory. Many (most?) of us have experienced maintenance issues that went sideways. Keep focused on the brass ring. You’ll get there.

Good call. You will not regret that decision.

That's... graphic!

Why return dirty oil to the engine They only reason to use a aos is too lazy to top the motor. If your blow by is that bad, then time to fix it. For the beech tcm I stock three variations of the correct engine breather tubes in 304 stainless steel. Next were duplicating the late Baron 55 that are nla in stainless steel. Jig cnc bend cross check in jig add ice hole Polish on Bandor Buffer Copy per sample for 70% in better lifetime material.

Are you hiring?

A very cool plane and a very sane price.

Fair enough, however you don’t need to be a AP to do the work, you just need a AP to sign it off. again that depends on relationships and mechanical ability. If you’re looking at being a owner I’d highly recommend working on those two.

Interesting plane, especially the times. BTW, I don't think that's a KFC 200 autopilot!

Savvy didn’t manage this. If you read this from the beginning you’ll see he didn’t contact Savvy until well after the OP authorized work. He contacted us for help after advice from people here on this thread plus we only manage maintenance with shops that agree to our processes and terms. So the OP did end up using us as a consultant to help him with the shop but it was well past our ability prevent what had already happened- nor are we lawyers that try to intervene after the fact. But you can ask the OP if he’s seeing value by contracting with us. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A lot of wrong in that comment. if you lose power and you’re on oxygen you should be descending and looking for somewhere to land. the portable oxygen tank is not required. It is however a nice to have. compared with the inogen which is very limited in its use, the Aithre is very light. I don’t think it has the same altitude limitations as the inogen.

Thanks all for your insight and opinions. I have decided to pass on it. I just thought I might be able to get a good deal on it but since I'm not an A&P that most likely is not the case. Appreciate everyone who posted.

I’d consider buying this airplane under 3 conditions 1. plane was already at my airport 2. I had a lot of extra time 3. The owner would take my offer for 5k

Absolutely concur. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk