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They didn’t just replace the nose puck, they replaced all the pucks AND it sounds like the front gear assembly. I’d bet they have every bit of that time invested to do that. to be honest, the hours seem high, but not astronomical. If this was a vintage C/E/F/G, it probably should have gone to the parts bin. You’re going to be into this a completely additional airplane by the time you’re done with overhaul.

If you clean off the old door seal before you go it will be half that. the adhesive is super easy to work with and cleanup. Is a brass bristle brush. Do NOT do this in your hangar and tape off the cabin.

The longer you fight it the more it will eat at you. It sucks and I doubt many of us would feel any less frustration or anger. But you’re almost done with them and have a significant upgrade. And you don’t ever have to go back. Hang the engine, put some distance from that shop you, then find a good guy. They are out there. Really sorry this happened to you .

You get much of the compression effort back in the expansion during the power stroke, though, so it's not a total loss.

Nope…close the throttle.

As I said, the USAF found that the airplane slide on the foam, until it ran off the foam then slide the same distance on the dry pavement as if it had touched down without any foam at all.

Where may l find the FAA required AD riveted clamp?

There are two losses. Sucking the air in Compressing it. Full throttle lowers the first but increases the second.

I use spray Carb Cleaner on a rag and poof its gone. Like the other fellas are mentioning about the paint watch out. I have had deep blue under the wing and around the caps. A little dab will do ya... Fly Smart Ryan

Headlight polishing kit cleaned it right up. Thx all!!

Thank you.

When I did my engine a couple of years ago, I used Continental (ECI) cylinders. I pulled the rings off one piston to set the gaps. They were all dead nuts on. So I left the other three alone.

I use MEK. If you have good polyurethane paint, MEK usually won’t hurt it. I would try the MEK on somewhere inconspicuous. If the stain is soaked into the paint, you are kinda screwed. MEK works best. It may take the paint off along with the stain.

It’s worth a shot. Mine is a surface stain that I keep wiping with a rag.

That’s cute. When the blades go to feather all that relative wind doesn’t keep it spinning and in fact the propeller slows to a stop.

Damn, that’s more than I sold my Cessna for. Which included a fresh annual.

Yeah, good call. I had the nose gear pucks replaced last year, and I think the main gear was replaced about 5 years ago. So hopefully that's all good. I'm assuming that since this started right after my pitot/static check that the ASSS is the issue here. Everything had been working find up until then.

Here's all the info I have on the switch Airspeed safety switch.pdf 654-switch-veproducts-aerospace-low-pressure-switches-specs-sheet.pdf

Ouch. Whatever happens, after this find a different shop. Sorry you have to go through this. My fave: Discrepancy: Oil dipstick tube is loose and the gasket is missing pieces. Corrective Action: Remove the dipstick, replace the gasket and reinstall the dipstick. 0.65 $1,355.00 $880.75

Thank you. Luckily, I'm not dual mag. Just regular A1A with two split mags.

In my case, I've let the small leak from the sump drain build up a stain for several months, you could even feel a bump due to the heavy accumulation of blue pigments. WD40 removed all. I don't know what your specific case is and if this method would work.

Yea I’ve seen that method too. I think it’s soaked deep into the paint. Does the WD40 remove all of the stain? You think it would work for soaked in stains?

Be careful with MEK, is very agressive. I heard people also use 100LL, yeah, kind of fight fire with fire. The logic behind using 100LL is that the stain comes from the fuel evaporating and leaving behind the dye. So with fuel you could remove the dye and as long as you remove the 100LL with a rag, it should be good.

Yes, 100LL. I e tried MEK and polishing compound. The stains have been there for a while. WD40 eh???

Updating this thread - I got some second opinions from various sources including Savvy, and it was determined the crank case was out of tolerance. I decided to go with Watson Aero due to their lead time and apparent quality. James Watson of Watson Aero is one of the account managers at Savvy as well, so I felt comfortable using him and his shop. Coletti crated the engine and sent it off to James, but then they hit me with a $42K Invoice for work done up until now. This is in addition to the $16k I had already paid as a downpayment (which is Invoice 1302, attached). This does not include the install of the engine when it returns from Watson Aero. This is way in excess of the estimate that was initially given, and many of the charges were not cleared with me, so I'm a bit sour about this. My main question is if certain charges on the new invoice 1384 are reasonable or out of line. I have not yet paid this. I sent to savvy and they said the way the costs are split between the invoices is very confusing (65% down, 35% balance). They did say its correct and I have to pay it though. I didnt feel as if they did due diligence. Main Lines of Concern Line 14 - Engine Valvetrain excessively worn - $6,075.00 Line 18 - Aircrafts Data Plate is in the wrong Location - $59.06 (Its where its supposed to be...) Line 37 - Nose Puck is cracked - $5,049.00 (37.4 Hours of Labor!?) Not including pucks.. Line 47 - AD Compliance - $1,620.00 (AD Compliance Sheet was included with Logs) Can anyone share their opinions and knowlege on whether these seem reasonable or totally out of line? Invoice_1384_from_Coletti_Aviation_LLC Scrubbed.pdf Invoice_1302_from_Coletti_Aviation_LLC Scrubbed.pdf