Considering buying an M20

[midlifeflyer]

1 minute ago, MikeOH said:

LOL!

I think I have some 10 hours in Diamond and taking off the fuel cap is a waste of time

I rather liked the 'manometer', however.  I viewed it as an accurate built-in fuel stick.

You liked needing three hands to check fuel level? 

The club has a refuel to full after flying rule, but we use the device for checkouts and you really do have to use it if you don't refuel at a remote location, although I suspect many just rely on the totalizer and assume no leaks.

[PeterRus]

21 hours ago, CFIcare said:

Do you have any connection to this plane or just have excellent googling skills?  How did you find? Thanks for sending!

No connection other than I bought my J from IndyAirSales unseen -- generally very pleasing transaction. I noticed their (IndyAirSales) prices are more reasonable than the two well-known marketplaces.

Don't know much about the Bonanzas, but I would take a hard look at that Bonanza. Keep in mind the plane is faster, but also a 6-cylinder: need high-perf endorsement and more money for gas (although some would argue that faster speeds would offset the higher GPH). 

Good luck. 

PS: the V-tail looks better than the forward tail. 

PPS: Diamonds are better than Cessnas.

Edited October 23 by PeterRus

[DXB]

8 hours ago, Pinecone said:

There is a difference between what you can sell your plane for and what you should insure it for.

Remember, if you have a mishap, if the repair cost is over about 70% of the insured value you will have a check, not an airplane.   And with current costs, a gear up could end up with your plane being totaled.   And you get to start looking for a new plane.

On the other hand, if it is overinsured, it can force you to fix something that you would rather have totalled... so it may be best to insure for the market value as best you can discern it

[Pinecone]

FYI Grumman/American AA-1 series are similar with fuel in tubular spar from root to tip.

Fuel gauges are clear tubes in the wing roots.  Very accurate.

[TheAv8r]

7 hours ago, Hank said:

I filled up after a long trip and a short flight yesterday (our fuel pump at home was down for a fritzing card reader). One tank, the fuel was barely visible direct below the cap opening so I didn't bother with my dipstick. It took 14.6 gallons to refill. So a gallon and a half (C model, 26 gallon tanks; at reseal, filling both to the caps was 52.2 gal).

Per the Type Certificate, unusable fuel is 3.4 lbs total, or 1.7 lb = 0.3 gallons per tank. My stick is calibrated in 2-gallon increments from 2 - 26 gal.

Trying to follow you here but I think you’re confirming what I’ve seen… So 26gal tank, you put in 14.6gal which means you had 11.4gal in that tank (26-14.6). And the fuel was barely visible so the tank appeared almost dry under the fill cap, which means roughly 10gal would still be in the plane even if the fuel was showing dry under the cap (unstickable). But the scary part is it could be 3, 5, 8, you don’t know. Am I following you correctly?

[Hank]

1 hour ago, TheAv8r said:

Trying to follow you here but I think you’re confirming what I’ve seen… So 26gal tank, you put in 14.6gal which means you had 11.4gal in that tank (26-14.6). And the fuel was barely visible so the tank appeared almost dry under the fill cap, which means roughly 10gal would still be in the plane even if the fuel was showing dry under the cap (unstickable). But the scary part is it could be 3, 5, 8, you don’t know. Am I following you correctly?

Oops! Typo, should have been 24.6 gal to refill, fuel was barely under the hole. Will fix my original post.

So ~1.5 gallons is at the edge of the hole.

[Pinecone]

You can always run a tank dry and see how much fuel to start seeing it.

In my M20K 252, if I can see fuel, I have at least 7.5 gallons.  Which is fine by me as I am not taking off with under 7.5 gallons.