Mooney-Shiner Posted May 3 Report Posted May 3 Hello, guys! My 20F lives in the coastal Florida and I noticed that flap hardware is getting rusty. So I decided to shop for the replacement. My IPC calls for AN3-10A bolt, AN365-1032 nut and AN960-10L/10 washers. I'm wondering what are the thoughts on using stainless steel hardware versions that is also available on Aircraft Spruce to get longer life without rusting? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN3C-10A.php https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an365_2.php?clickkey=12674 Quote
47U Posted May 3 Report Posted May 3 2 hours ago, Mooney-Shiner said: I'm wondering what are the thoughts on using stainless steel hardware versions that is also available on Aircraft Spruce to get longer life without rusting? Mooney addresses corrosion on the outboard flap hinge when a stainless steel upstop bolt is used and recommends replacing the upstop bolt with an NAS 428-3-7. Replacing the hinge bolts with stainless might induce corrosion in the flap hinges if you’re in a high corrosion area (like Florida/coast?). https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-186A.pdf 1 Quote
Mooney-Shiner Posted May 3 Author Report Posted May 3 21 minutes ago, 47U said: Mooney addresses corrosion on the outboard flap hinge when a stainless steel upstop bolt is used and recommends replacing the upstop bolt with an NAS 428-3-7. Replacing the hinge bolts with stainless might induce corrosion in the flap hinges if you’re in a high corrosion area (like Florida/coast?). https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-186A.pdf Excellent! Thank you. I will inspect my upstop bolt. So I'm assuming since Mooney looks down upon using the stainless steel upstop bolt to prevent galvanic corrosion with aluminum hinge, same applies to other flap hinge hardware. I guess I will go with cad-plated hardware. 1 Quote
cliffy Posted May 28 Report Posted May 28 On 5/3/2025 at 11:23 AM, Mooney-Shiner said: I guess I will go with cad-plated hardware. The original cad plated hardware lasted how long? You won't be alive when the new cad plated hardware goes bad again. 1 1 Quote
MikeOH Posted May 28 Report Posted May 28 19 minutes ago, cliffy said: The original cad plated hardware lasted how long? You won't be alive when the new cad plated hardware goes bad again. Be careful to make sure you purchase true cadmium plated hardware; it is being eliminated for nearly all uses due to environmental concerns with cadmium. Aerospace is one of the few applications where it is still allowed but there are sometimes 'suitable' substitutes made that you may not want (e.g. zinc/nickel). 1 Quote
Mooney-Shiner Posted May 28 Author Report Posted May 28 9 hours ago, MikeOH said: Be careful to make sure you purchase true cadmium plated hardware; it is being eliminated for nearly all uses due to environmental concerns with cadmium. Aerospace is one of the few applications where it is still allowed but there are sometimes 'suitable' substitutes made that you may not want (e.g. zinc/nickel). I'm getting mine on Aircraft Spruce. The description says that it is cad-platted. 1 Quote
cliffy Posted May 28 Report Posted May 28 AN standard bolts and nuts both conform to cad plating requirements if true AN quality 1 Quote
Mooney-Shiner Posted May 29 Author Report Posted May 29 18 hours ago, cliffy said: AN standard bolts and nuts both conform to cad plating requirements if true AN quality Yes, I'm definitely using AN hardware. It's cheap enough not to seek alternative in the Aviation aisle of Homey Depot. Quote
Mooney-Shiner Posted Monday at 06:48 PM Author Report Posted Monday at 06:48 PM A follow on question. I trying to figure out the configuration of the washers for the flap hinges. The Parts Manual for 67F is pretty confusing below: The bolt/washer/nut arrangement is confusing, so I turn to the 68F manuals for clarity: The schematic at 68F manual made more sense. Two skinny washers on the outside of the hinge, three thick washers on the inside (2 inboard/1 outboard). Does this look right? Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted Monday at 07:24 PM Report Posted Monday at 07:24 PM I would have to look at mine. It looks like you are over bending the outer bracket. Maybe putting the thick washers under the nut and bolts, and put the two thin washers on the left side of the bearings. But then why didn’t they use a thick washer instead of two thin washers. 1 Quote
Mooney-Shiner Posted Monday at 08:32 PM Author Report Posted Monday at 08:32 PM 1 hour ago, N201MKTurbo said: I would have to look at mine. It looks like you are over bending the outer bracket. Maybe putting the thick washers under the nut and bolts, and put the two thin washers on the left side of the bearings. But then why didn’t they use a thick washer instead of two thin washers. I've got pretty quick reply (within 10 minutes) from Frank Crawford. The inside block: thin L-type on the outboard, two thick washers on the inboard. Go figure. 2 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted Monday at 09:10 PM Report Posted Monday at 09:10 PM 37 minutes ago, Mooney-Shiner said: I've got pretty quick reply (within 10 minutes) from Frank Crawford. The inside block: thin L-type on the outboard, two thick washers on the inboard. Go figure. Great job getting the answer on that. 2 Quote
carusoam Posted Monday at 11:43 PM Report Posted Monday at 11:43 PM Great reference for Frank Crawford too! Best regards, -a- 1 Quote
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