Tank reseal. How much sealer to buy

[Thackett]

32 gallon tanks. Does any one know how many oz of sealer cs3204 it takes to reseal a tank. 
How many oz of access panel does it takes. 

[Steve Dawson]

Do one tank or even a part of a tank and you'll realize it's cheaper to get one of the experts to do it. Just speaking from experience, a multitude of curse words and many scraped knuckles. 

[RobertGary1]

1 hour ago, Steve Dawson said:

Do one tank or even a part of a tank and you'll realize it's cheaper to get one of the experts to do it. Just speaking from experience, a multitude of curse words and many scraped knuckles. 

But can you get in this year?

[Steve Dawson]

I'd phone around. I had Wingologists in Florida do mine waiting 4 months and just as I had delivered the plane to Florida, Weep No More phoned me with a cancelation.  It's worth a couple phone calls. 

I hated spending the money but didn't want to keep trying to find holes that I missed and have to open the tank up again. 

They both have good reputations and guarantees. 

 

[Jblanton]

To answer the Question

When I did mine myself I used 2 Gallons Polygone, Three quarts of CS3204 B2 and two 4oz tubes of CS3330 B2 for access panels.   Also 2 Quarts CS 3600.  This is per side.

I also used a quart of Alodine.  Buy a Sealant gun and tubes/tips from Business aircraft consumables to do the filet application.  I do Quarts and fill my own tubes because I have had too many bad premade  tube kits.   I made up about 50 plastic scrapers so I always had a sharp one.  You will more than likely find most of the captive nutplates blown out and needing replacing from past maintainers putting screws in with sealant in the hole.  Put on some peaceful music, and have band aids  within reach!

[Fly Boomer]

10 minutes ago, Jblanton said:

To answer the Question

When I did mine myself I used 2 Gallons Polygone, Three quarts of CS3204 B2 and two 4oz tubes of CS3330 B2 for access panels.   Also 2 Quarts CS 3600.  This is per side.

I also used a quart of Alodine.  Buy a Sealant gun and tubes/tips from Business aircraft consumables to do the filet application.  I do Quarts and fill my own tubes because I have had too many bad premade  tube kits.   I made up about 50 plastic scrapers so I always had a sharp one.  You will more than likely find most of the captive nutplates blown out and needing replacing from past maintainers putting screws in with sealant in the hole.  Put on some peaceful music, and have band aids  within reach!

Really good post.  It suggests either really good record keeping on your part, or a really good memory.  

[Jblanton]

22 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

Really good post.  It suggests either really good record keeping on your part, or a really good memory.  

I've just done a lot of fuel tank work in the past 25 years.  People make such a big deal about Mooney tanks.  A reseal isn't complicated, but is time consuming. It is actually one thing in the maintenance manual and SB  that is somewhat detailed.  Cost me under $500.  I would rather do a Mooney tank than re tape and put a bladder in a C-182.  Worst fuel tank jobs I have done are Hawker, Westwind, and Sabreliner though.

[Mufflerbearing]

22 hours ago, Jblanton said:

To answer the Question

When I did mine myself I used 2 Gallons Polygone, Three quarts of CS3204 B2 and two 4oz tubes of CS3330 B2 for access panels.   Also 2 Quarts CS 3600.  This is per side.

I also used a quart of Alodine.  Buy a Sealant gun and tubes/tips from Business aircraft consumables to do the filet application.  I do Quarts and fill my own tubes because I have had too many bad premade  tube kits.   I made up about 50 plastic scrapers so I always had a sharp one.  You will more than likely find most of the captive nutplates blown out and needing replacing from past maintainers putting screws in with sealant in the hole.  Put on some peaceful music, and have band aids  within reach!

Is it worth buying the battery powered unit over the pneumatic unit? 

[whiskytango]

On 3/5/2023 at 7:05 PM, Steve Dawson said:

I hated spending the money but didn't want to keep trying to find holes that I missed and have to open the tank up again. 

^^^^^^ This.   On my first K model, it was on the ramp at a MSC waiting for an annual when a hail storm rolled through before they could get it in a hangar.  The shop that did the hail damage repair (not a MSC, and not one of the companies that specialize in wet wing reseals) convinced the insurance company that the hail may have damaged the seals on the wet wing tanks, and they should be stripped and resealed.  To make a long story short, it took MONTHS of Whack-a-Mole repair technique by this shop to get the newly sealed tanks to stop leaking.  

I just had my current K model tanks stripped and sealed by Wetwingologists East, and the job was perfect. 

[GeeBee]

Thanks for the vote of confidence on WetWingologists East. I am due to pick up my Ovation this Friday and am hoping for a good outcome!

[Shadrach]

51 minutes ago, Jblanton said:

I've just done a lot of fuel tank work in the past 25 years.  People make such a big deal about Mooney tanks.  A reseal isn't complicated, but is time consuming. It is actually one thing in the maintenance manual and SB  that is somewhat detailed.  Cost me under $500.  I would rather do a Mooney tank than re tape and put a bladder in a C-182.  Worst fuel tank jobs I have done are Hawker, Westwind, and Sabreliner though.

This ^^^^.

There is no such thing a easy and fun tank work an any airplane, but some are better than others.  Mooneys are a bitch until you make peace with the process. I have been in mine 3 times. Once in 2010 and twice in 2022 (missed a spot). Like anything, it get's easier with experience.  My right tank is seeping at an access panel and will need attention at annual but previous repairs are still intact. It will take me a few hours spread out over a few days to check for additional seeps and make repairs. It's not just about saving a few bucks.  The logistics of doing in my own hangar and having it done in days for the cost of materials, my free time and a IA's eye is by many degrees faster and better value than traveling to a specialty shop. flying back to a shop for warranty work is impractical in may cases.  

[Shadrach]

I have a Semco gun (low profile, no pistol grip) with the short retainer for 2.5oz cartridges.  Empty cartridges can be bought and filled as needed.

I am happy to lend it to any Mooney Spacer that is in need for shipping costs plus a reasonable and fully refundable deposit.

[Fly Boomer]

2 hours ago, Shadrach said:

I have a Semco gun (low profile, no pistol grip) with the short retainer for 2.5oz cartridges.  Empty cartridges can be bought and filled as needed.

I am happy to lend it to any Mooney Spacer that is in need for shipping costs plus a reasonable and fully refundable deposit.

I used a manual caulking gun for some work, but not inside the tank.  I suspect the "no pistol grip" feature would be a requirement when working inside the tank.

[Shadrach]

33 minutes ago, Fly Boomer said:

I used a manual caulking gun for some work, but not inside the tank.  I suspect the "no pistol grip" feature would be a requirement when working inside the tank.

Yeah, I definitely would not want a pistol grip.  I didn’t use the gun this last time. I masked off the fillet area and laid down sealant with an acid brush and a plastic spackling knife. After it dried I’m masked again for the brush coat. Masked a third time for the top coat. 
Probably won’t be so fastidious next time.

[N201MKTurbo]

2 hours ago, Shadrach said:

Yeah, I definitely would not want a pistol grip.  I didn’t use the gun this last time. I masked off the fillet area and laid down sealant with an acid brush and a plastic spackling knife. After it dried I’m masked again for the brush coat. Masked a third time for the top coat. 
Probably won’t be so fastidious next time.

I like the ty-wrap idea! I'll use that in the future.

[N201MKTurbo]

Speaking of the sump drain. I have one leaking. The only proper fix is to drill out the rivets, clean both surfaces, apply sealant and rivet it back in with wet sealant. I'm thinking that should be done every time you are in the tank, at least in that area. It would only take 15 min or so. I'm thinking I may be able to do it through the gas gauge hole. If I can't pull it off, then a panel is coming off.

[Shadrach]

17 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

Speaking of the sump drain. I have one leaking. The only proper fix is to drill out the rivets, clean both surfaces, apply sealant and rivet it back in with wet sealant. I'm thinking that should be done every time you are in the tank, at least in that area. It would only take 15 min or so. I'm thinking I may be able to do it through the gas gauge hole. If I can't pull it off, then a panel is coming off.

Mine was not leaking at the sump so we left well enough alone, I just put a fillet around it and brushed it well.  I think folks sometimes thin the brush coat too much and create air bubbles when stirring. That's no Bueno.  A little harder to work with thicker sealant but the end result is better. No leaks since closing it back up last year.

[Steve Dawson]

9 hours ago, Jblanton said:

I've just done a lot of fuel tank work in the past 25 years.  People make such a big deal about Mooney tanks.  A reseal isn't complicated, but is time consuming. It is actually one thing in the maintenance manual and SB  that is somewhat detailed.  Cost me under $500.  I would rather do a Mooney tank than re tape and put a bladder in a C-182.  Worst fuel tank jobs I have done are Hawker, Westwind, and Sabreliner though.

Just curious, how many hours do you think you'd take to strip and reseal both tanks on a K model? It's tough work and I don't mind working hard but I didn't want to spend a lot of time doing it.

I remember a person on here (I believe he was an AF pilot who had a C model?) that designed his own striping system using PVC pipe and a pump that sprayed stripping fluid through the lower inspection covers then let it drain into tanks laid under the plane. The pump would then pick it up from the tanks and respray it. 

[GeeBee]

Just picked up my Ovation from Wet Wingologists East. Fabulous job! All new SS fasteners, new sump drains and receptacles. All inspection panels neatly and professionally sealed. They told me while I was there they only do Mooneys. No other aircraft. They also told me the newer planes are having early sealant failure. This is because of application of the sealant then sandwiching. They said it works good if the skin is machine riveted, but the hand riveting produces inconsistent tension leading early sealant failure. They have already re-sealed four constructed this way.

[Mufflerbearing]

1 hour ago, GeeBee said:

Just picked up my Ovation from Wet Wingologists East. Fabulous job! All new SS fasteners, new sump drains and receptacles. All inspection panels neatly and professionally sealed. They told me while I was there they only do Mooneys. No other aircraft. They also told me the newer planes are having early sealant failure. This is because of application of the sealant then sandwiching. They said it works good if the skin is machine riveted, but the hand riveting produces inconsistent tension leading early sealant failure. They have already re-sealed four constructed this way.

How new is "newer planes"?

[GeeBee]

Mostly the ones with two doors.