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Posted

I helped a fellow E owner with side windows last year, and second the recommendation to label every bracket, and take a pic of the assembly in place (faster than drawing a map).  Nothing difficult, just tedious work so don't get in a hurry and do it right!  You'll be very, very happy with the end results.


He also put the modern insulation in, but I can't remember his source.  


I would also invest in a couple of kneeling pads (I have a Craftsman version) for sitting/kneeling inside the cabin.  Perhaps scraps of thick home carpet would help too.  


Now is a great time to find any orphaned wires and remove them to improve your useful load too.  We found a few pounds of coax and misc wire that was cut at both ends and just along for the ride.


Good luck!

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Posted

That ABS glue gives a nice buzz.


Fixing the plastic with the glue is easy, Expect a pirep from Scott in a couple days.  The real work is getting it in and out of the plane.


 

Posted

I have used the 3M adhesive remover that Shadrack mentioned, and thought it worked well.  Compared to MEK it scored low on the obnoxious scale.  MEK is a very nasty solvent.

Posted

Quote: N9154V

When I did my 69 insulation, I ordered it from Laser. My A&P said just put it in, do not glue it. This way we can remove it if necessary.  I just cut it slightly oversized and installed it. It is always in place at every annual.   Order extra, I doubled it up when possible and practical.

Ron

Posted

Pleased with the result of interior re-furb/spray painting so far.  Yes, fumes from glue and paint are nasty in a house.  Project moved to "kill room" son's Dexter reference as I tented the pool table for the spraying.  Ceiling fans and floor fans are in use.  The fiberglass is just easy, end of story.  Cut your fiberglass to size.  Put glue on backside of part.  Saturate fiberglass with glue, place and apply additional glue on top.  Done and STRONG!  Paint looks good.  I need to re-sand a couple of vinyl putty crack coverings as residue is noticeable after paint.  The spot is where shoulder harness is so could probably let it slide.  Removal of interior was straight forward.  Purchased insulation (NON-adhesive) and will be installing and pulling windows/prepping for replacement.  Bought a stripper product at Lowe's that I am going to try on ceiling where headliner residue remains.  Send out a search party (kidding) if you don't hear from me.  A little headache from all the fumes?  Today.  Slow and steady wins the race on the glue/painting or VENTILATE like a mother...

Posted

Will do Jim.  Many thanks.  I don't think the interior plastic was ever painted, so a major improvement.  Hard not to get ahead visualizing what it will look like when complete.  Just painted door.  I removed/saved fabric from top.  (will work as a pattern for my interior cloth "guy" (Singer Upholstery) to install.  Good excuse to "check progress" and keep my project on his front burner...

Posted

My son and I continued to work on window removal today.  We also pulled out the old fiberglass insulation.  No surprises inside.  Removing the windows just takes time...Over 120 screws!  We needed to have A&P drill out about a dozen as they were painted and then easily stripped and just wouldn't break lose.  Nothing to grab onto with counter-sunk screws.  Took us about four hours.  I decided to pull the baggage door and outside door handle to have them powder coated too as they were easy access with door insulation removed.  Monday new insulation goes in as well as painting the nose wheel housing, air vents (ceiling) and center plastic strip (between seats where Johnson bar folds.  So far so good.  New glass goes in next Wednesday and Thursday and then all plastic will go back in...

Posted

Scott, when you are done that is going to be one exceptional E. I even like the original paint scheme and your panel is nicely done too.


Watching projects through pictures, reading questions/answers/suggestions about the work and then seeing the results are my favorite things about Mooneyspace. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us. Looking forward to more...


Merry Christmas to everyone.

Posted

All this talk about the easy plastic repair convinced me to give it a go...   pulled the pilot side panel whose arm rest had cracked through the panel.  Picked up some cement and fiberglass - guys it really is that easy!!!  


Giving it a day or two to completely flash off then quick sand and paint... wow.

Posted

Spent FOUR HOURS contorted in plane removing old sealant.  What a Mother#$%#er...I primarily used a razor blade...or should I say blades (six were used) in a holder/handle as well as my thumbs.  Guys, this is/was NOT FUN.  I didn't want to use a "remover" as I didn't want to mess up paint.  I will use a little on a rag to work on remaining residue, but I got it pretty well in four hours.  Just a tedius task.  No way would I ever do a fuel tank after that exercise.  The sealer was in some cases pretty thick so HAD to be manually removed.  If I did again I would do the same way, but spread the joy out over a couple or more times.  I'm going to be sore tomorrow.  I think I lost my thumb prints....

Posted

Spent 4.5 hours on windows today.  We successfully tested fit, taped, pilot hole drilled and removed for drilling , counter sinking and reaming.  Three of four windows drilled.  Just need to drill the co-pilot window that has screw holes only on top and bottom.  Windows will be mounted tomorrow!  Photos of today in my Photo archive under interior.  The process was slow, but NO problems experienced.  The Great Lakes Aero 1/4 inch glass fit PERFECTLY in my 1966 M20E with NO TRIMMING REQUIRED!  The specialty drill bits worked fantastic.  (Thanks Mike!) We drilled right through the tape without issue.  We pilot drilled from outside in with me inside providing pressure to properly position glass.  The larger bit was an easy drill with pilot hole already completed.  We went with a slightly larger than screw drill bit.  I don't want to do this again, but highly recommend the 1/4 inch glass.  I bought the two part epoxy and received instructions on proper way (number of strokes to mix).  I bought a pneumatic gun to apply, but may not use...Will decide tomorrow.  Final stretch on the glass.

Posted

Hi Scott.


As others have expressed to you on this thread, you are going to be just thrilled with the new windows.  It's like someone turned on the lights!!! 


After 4 years since putting new windows in Jolie's Mooney, I still marvel at how great it looks, not only from the inside out but from the outside in!


The windshield is another story.   So, it's good you started with the side windows.  You are gaining tons of expereince and confidence for the windshield.  Cutting and shaping to fit is tedious but one little step each time.  As others may have said, you can take a little off each time, but you can't put it back! 


Thanks for sharing all this with us!  Smile

Posted

Thanks Mitch!  Thankfully the windshield was already upgraded with The 201 style (still has side access to avionics forward)...so I do not have to do this upgrade.  Glass is in great shape vs. the OEM original side glass we are removing.  The interior refurb in almond and sand carpets/kick plates should also really make the interior "pop" vs. what was in there.  Still need to install the insulation and put all the interior back in, but can finally see the end of the road.  I REALLY like Jolie's interior.  Seats some day, but lots of life left there after a budget re-do on the pilot co-pilot seats a year or so ago.  Still smiling (so far).

Posted

One item at a time, indeed.  Oh, now I see your photo with the 201 windshield.  Great!  Yep, it's going to look super for sure!!


As far as the seat's,  we designed the seat look [simple], we bought Airtex material and had our local auto upholstery folks sew it all together.  Very reasonbly priced with us doing all the physical labor as you are doing.

Posted

Mission ACCOMPLISHED!  Ryan and I spent seven hours today finishing the side window installation.  We mounted the windows to ensure that each one would accept a screw.  We then taped the outside of the plane (on the first window)  We had minimal (no seepage at screws) seepage of Sealant on the plane, so didn't tape over screw holes on remaining three windows.  We had to re-drill the co-pilot side retainers as the 1/4 inch glass was enough bigger that the brackets needed to be moved.  Two part epoxy was straight forward.  Tough to push/pull plunger 75 times to mix, but was easy to apply and the two hour cure time allowed us to use one tube for two windows (two tubes total).  We had at least a third of a tube remaining after applying sealant inside of plane.  Make sure to photograph and label each bracket.  We also put in baggies labeling each window.  Everything off the window went into the baggie.  We re-used some of the bolts, but replaced all the screws.  Tired, tired, tired after removing old sealant two days ago, drilling all day yesterday and screwing/installing today.  We used a small socket inside and a screwdriver outside.  We didn't use a drill as we didn't want to overtighten.  Photos in my website of completed windows.  Difference is stunning from the old green tint slightly crazed 1/8 inch.  1/4 inch was THE WAY TO GO IMO based on the minimal cost increase over OEM and the ease of installation.  GOOD LUCK!  Thanks again to Mike for the use of his drill bits and PM's on how to prep sealant etc.

Posted

Quote: scottfromiowa

Mission ACCOMPLISHED!  Ryan and I spent seven hours today finishing the side window installation.  We mounted the windows to ensure that each one would accept a screw.  We then taped the outside of the plane (on the first window)  We had minimal (no seepage at screws) seepage of Sealant on the plane, so didn't tape over screw holes on remaining three windows.  We had to re-drill the co-pilot side retainers as the 1/4 inch glass was enough bigger that the brackets needed to be moved.  Two part epoxy was straight forward.  Tough to push/pull plunger 75 times to mix, but was easy to apply and the two hour cure time allowed us to use one tube for two windows (two tubes total).  We had at least a third of a tube remaining after applying sealant inside of plane.  Make sure to photograph and label each bracket.  We also put in baggies labeling each window.  Everything off the window went into the baggie.  We re-used some of the bolts, but replaced all the screws.  Tired, tired, tired after removing old sealant two days ago, drilling all day yesterday and screwing/installing today.  We used a small socket inside and a screwdriver outside.  We didn't use a drill as we didn't want to overtighten.  Photos in my website of completed windows.  Difference is stunning from the old green tint slightly crazed 1/8 inch.  1/4 inch was THE WAY TO GO IMO based on the minimal cost increase over OEM and the ease of installation.  GOOD LUCK!  Thanks again to Mike for the use of his drill bits and PM's on how to prep sealant etc.

Posted

After 75 Friggin' pumps it was mixed.  I don't know how you could use a drill as it is a stroke motion in a sealed unit.  Directions followed.  Mixed well.  The sealant is thick so 75 strokes up and down is a good workout, but takes only a couple of minutes.

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