Chimpanzee

Just put the LASAR point on, they were 45 the pair. Quite cheap in respect to aircraft. I have jack house jacks, so they hopefully will not bend.

Finally found the leak(s) - Closure Notice Thanks for all the input guys! I had probably told you that the leak had plagued me for some time. And to make matters worse, I am in the States on leave about twice a year for 3-4 weeks, so I am always pressed for time. Anyway, with the leakage I had what I think was a combination of leaks. The oil return hose rubber elements were leaking, but not much. That was taken care when the engine mounts were changed. (see above). But there was still a substantial oil leak. More engine washing and inspection by me and my trusted mechanic told him that the oil pressure line fitting to the prop governor was the culprit. That was easily fixed with Teflon. Admittedly I was sceptical, but after return from two hours flight, there oil leak was gone. I was very happy indeed. Now all I have is a little oil mist inside the gear housing, but it barely moists a paper towel when wiping. The horrible streaks on the belly have gone, and with them the anticipation that the engine might have something horribly wrong with it. Flying is much more relaxed now! I really have to thank my mechanic (an old hand), and we had a few beers to celebrate. Chimpanzee

The oil is in the nose gear housing, on the inside of the gear doors an on the gear linkage. Overfill might be a factor, (I run between 5.5. and 6.5), will attempt to go with Hank to run between 5 and 6. However, overfill should show on the belly and not inside the gear housing I think. I will check the breather line for cracks / holes and the fuel pump vent line as suggested. Norbert

To the more knowledgeable: I have slow oil leak in my 20 C that drives me nuts. I have oil in the front gear housing, on bot sides of the gear well and trailing along the bottom of the fuselage. My oil pressure is stable, the oil usage seems normal too. Here is what I have done: First, I though it was a problem from the retrofit angled oil spin adapter (ECI), so the gaskets at the accessory housing were changed. This did not seem to make any appreciable difference, so I sprayed the engine down, ran it according to piloto's instruction (thanks man !) and checked. Small leakages from three of the oil return hose connectors, and a runner on the back of the oil pan. Had all four rubber return hose connectors changed, as well as a new pan gasket installed. Run-up be mechanic confirmed no leak. Flew it four two hours and again had oil in the front gear housing (less than before however). Now I am lost for an explanation. The engine seems dry. Is there any possibility that the oil comes from the breather line and is somehow ducted into the gear housing, giving the impression of an engine oil leak ? Puzzled Norbert

Time to report. I put the E-drive in there and so it has been a massive improvement over the old one. Nice and smooth start. As for the tach cable it has been an uphill battle. The inner cable from Spruce was too short, Next try local tach shop. Put it in, started the engine, inner cable defect. So, in the end I ended up with the new outer cable from the tach shop and the old inner cable. Should probably have gone digital... And getting the cable through the firewall was a "££$$$%&^*

As my starter is somewhat lacking performance, i want to replace it during the annual with another. I am leaning towards Hartzell X - drive or E - drive, but there seems to be a fitting issue with them (specifically the E -drive). My bird is an M 20 C 1964. Unfortunately I cannot go over and look, as we are currently on two different continents. But as I would like to pre-order this from Spruce so I can keep my downtime to a minimum during my leave and get some more flying done. Same question applies to the Tach cable. i know it is kinked and needs replacement, but is it 36 Inch long or 46 Inch. Again stock M20 C. Any input welcome. Cheers Norbert

Quite happy with my Insight G1 (absolute basic). However the smaller version that I have is a little hard to read from the left seat when mounted on the right. Would go for the 3 1/8 inch version if I were to do it again. Oh, and forget the highly touted auto - lean function, might work with injectors, but not with my naturally aspirated banger. cheers

just wanted to add another chimp photo...

However what is the target EGT ? I haver heard it referred to but what actually is the value or how do I determine it for my C model with O 360 engine? Thanks to my Insight G1 monitor, I can see both EGT and CHT. Cheers Norbert

FIrst get a good quality switch. That rules out Radio Shack ! Mine came with Radio Shack on it and they constantly broke. I switched to the Sigtronics Microswitch offered by Spruce. It is actually an Otto Switch, so you could get it from a different source, but depending on the distributor the prices are around the same as Spruce. Drill a whole size of the switch in top of yoke, then a smaller canal through the yoke handle to the bottom and another 90 degree offset hole. Solder sufficient cable AWG 22 to the switch, and pull the cable through the conduit. A little tricky (pulling through with safety wire (fishing line) helps. However, before you pull the cable and set the switch put a heatshrink around the bottom of the switch, otherwise on of the tags will make contact with the yoke and you have interesting radio effects.

Hi, if you still have them what price do you think of ? please email to squawknorbert@Hotmail.com cheers Norbert

If still available, I would like to get the mp/fuel pressure. 150 plus shipping acceptable? please respond to squawknorbert@Hotmail.com cheers Norbert

I had the G1 fitted about a year ago. I left the stock CHT unchanged and operational since the probe is mounted at a different position from the G 1probes. It still shows temperatures, but generally lower than the top cyinders show on the G1. So, I am afraid that it was actually mounted on a rather cold cylinder. Anyway the stock unit can't hurt as back-up. Otherwise I am happy with the G1 but should have taken the larger diameter. I should have also realized that the highly touted lean feature is only really valuable if you have an injected engine with GAMI injectors, Overall I am quite happy with the unit, especially with the bar presentation.

Hmm, don't all those Katanas that schools like CAE use have Rotaxes ? They should know a thing about them. Cheers N

As my 63 C came with screen only, I had the ECI angled adapter mounted on it. The spin filter sits about 15 degrees offset from vertical. Most of the oil drains, and the remaining mess can easily be contained.(Need to try the absobent pad though). Best of all: My oil change interval is now 50 hours not 25. cheers N

Count me in for the seals, both baggage and door.|| cheers norbert

Hi Rip, just wondered, what is your lead time for delivery right now. My bird is going into annual next week. Cheers norbert

Looks like an elegant solution to me, and the pricetag is in sync with rest of my old 20C. I have to check out if I can place the LED panel next to the ASI, but the size makes me hopefull. I will be working on my birds annual in early March, and might add Rips unit to it. In the mountains of Arizona I would like all the help I could get, and as a person who also did some hours in gliders (and having read Aerodynamics for Naval Aviators) I do not have to be convinced about the benefits. Cheers

The "strap" that you pull on to close the door (not the locking handle), has been replaced by the previous owner with an ugly chain in ugly plastic cover. As I am finally going to glue and reinforce the plastic panel on the door side, I am looking for a replacement "strap" Unfortunately I have no idea where to get one, and what is is actually really called. Any ideas out there ? Cheers Norbert

I wanted to replace my screen with filter since I bought the plane, and initially considered an Airwolf remote. For space and other reasons I finally bought and installed the ECI angled adapter. From my experience spacing (or lack of) is a problem. I needed the long (2.5") adapter to get the filter properly situated. I would also consider changing the oil hoses. Mine were old but fine, however I reasoned that the handling and re-bending of hoses lying un-disturbed for long would only lead to trouble, so I had them all replaced with new ones. The ECI kit looks solid and came complete with all hardware and gaskets. Oil changes have become faster and less cumbersome as the filter is easier to access than the screen. Cheers Norbert

Hmm, mostly use falps on T/O, but forgot them too. However, since N201MKT lives in Tempe, I will experiment more with no flaps t/o as mine lives next tdoor in Arizona. I do nearly all landing with 1/2 flaps (and slip if required). norbert

If you get an engine monitor look at the Insight G series, I have a G1 on my M20C, and quite like the presentation. For more monney you could get the G2 or 3 which shows nearly all data you want (if you have the sensors needed) cheers Norbert

Thanks guys, as usual mooneyspace provides lots of good advice and feedback. I must admit that the idea of replacing the mounts comes only from the small vibration. It is not bad, and I might make it sound more that it is, I have a three blade Hartzell prop, and as far as I can tell there is no noticeable sag. And the mounts do look ok. (as much as I can tell). I did have the prop dynamically balanced, it made some difference, but the mechanic who did it said the imbalance was little anyhow. Maybe I make too much out of it. Since I would like to avoid an unneccessary PITA, I will take the measurents as suggested by Brian, and if that does not reveal anything more, leave the mounts unchanged for the time being. Cheers and thanks again Norbert

A question to the more knowledgeable: The vibrations in my M20 C are not bad, but noticeable. So, I thought about changing the engine mounts, as I have no idea how old they are. What I do not know is if it would be possible to change one after the other (while keeping the engine where it is) or if the engine has to come off completely (and all the nice cabels and attachments have to be removed). Any ideas? Cheers Norbert

Might be interested in the I-Fly, as I like the features of it. But how can you panel-mount it. Does anybody sell a docking station ? Cheers