slowflyin

My first impression as well! Of course, they have straight pipes on her.

Short video of first crank of my newly rebuilt Bravo engine. The cell has a shroud for cooling that moves into place before the power is run up. She ran all day yesterday! No issues so she will ship on Monday. VID-20220324-WA0005.mp4

After years of trying different methods, I found a simple solution that works great for me. Right Side of the hour (minute hand on the right)- right tank, left side of the hour-left tank. Previously I questioned whether or not I switched tanks. Now I glance at my watch and quickly confirm.

I started with the turbo cool down method but have since moved on. I think it's probably as cool as it's going to when exiting the runway. I've been back and forth over the years, but the GAMI guys swayed me eventually.

I pulled my Bravo engine at around 2200 hours since 1994. No major work in its life except some minor exhaust work around 1700 hours. Don K might chime in. I think he has had great longevity out of his Bravo engines.

Not sure if it's been discussed but I don't think the g3X will drive your existing AP. I have the KFC150 and went through the same process. It's been a year or so and the details are fading. The bottom line for my situation was roughly a 10k delta between the 275s and one big Garmin screen if I wanted to keep my old AP.

I would file an ASRS report. Errors were made others could learn from. Thanks for the post.

Thought I'd share this pic as I found it interesting. This is the nut off my lower, outboard motor mount. I'm not questioning the engineering and understand shear versus tension. That being said, when I removed it, I said "Wow!".

Thanks for the quick reply! I don't want to replace. I'm more of a Mike B. inspect and repair or replace as necessary kind of guy. During this process I realized I didn't know how to properly evaluate the condition of these parts and/or the reasonable life expectancy. I've read post regarding cable failures........

I had planned to replace my throttle, mixture and prop controls while I had the engine off my Bravo but I'm having second thoughts. Now that the engine and mount are removed it seems like nows the time to do it. The 2k quote from Mcfarland has certainly got me thinking. My AC came off the line in 1994 and I really don't know if buying new controls is warranted. I certainly want to replace what's required but I'd like to be sensible as well. Is there a procedure for evaluating these cables? After 28 years is replacement a no-brainer??

Thanks for all the great advice. As always, Mooneyspace come through!

Thanks Clarence! That's exactly what I was thinking.

Good afternoon, Looking for some group wisdom. Pulled the engine mount off of my Bravo for an IRAN while the Lycoming is being overhauled. The bolts enter from the engine side with nuts on the cockpit side. However, the exploded view in the parts manual shows the opposite. This AC is a 1994 model and the log books don't indicate the mount has ever been removed. I can't find any relevant info in the SM. The SM adds to the confusion as it shows a mount attach points that don't match the PM.

To tie this thread off- picked the AC up on Friday. Thorough inspection revealed no addition damage. So 8 days from the event to the AC released back into service. I’m considering myself blessed. Found the part, shippers were on time, mechanic on the field was fantastic, and the FBO went the extra mile! Thanks again for all the thoughts and advice!

Same-we replaced both of our FBO tugs with lazy Susan types

3 - 4 weeks for the repair.

Thanks for checking.

No, fsc@mooney.com. I’ll try Frank. Thanks!

Thanks for all the responses! As always, this group has been very helpful. If anyone has an email for Mooney Corp. parts that works I’d appreciate a reply. No joy with fsc@mooney.com Thanks again!

AC going on jacks today. Belly will be opened up and system checked from front to back. No joy on Mooney email-it bounced back. Maybe they will reply to VM.

Great advice! I called and left a voicemail. Fingers crossed.

Unfortunate event while away from home. No luck with LASAR. My info. Shows part number 540004-509. Alan may have one off a J. Can anyone advise whether or not it will fit? AC is a 94 Bravo. No luck with LASAR.

Not sure how relevant but I'll throw this out. I have a Skyhawk with an STCd O-360 that ran hot as heck on climb out. New baffling, precise timing....... Tried most all of what's been discussed. On a whim I called Marvell Schebler to discuss the economizer circuit and how to trouble shoot it. After listening for all of about 15 seconds he tells me he supects I have the wrong carb. If it's been mentioned in this thread my apologies. I skimmed before typing this and didn't see it. My AC has the MA-4-5 carb. They make this same model number in three versions-Lean, Middle, and Rich. All have MA-4-5 on the data plate. My data plate had no other nomenclature indicating which version. He utilized the SN# to determine which version I had. It turned out to be the Leanest. Someone in the past had replaced the carb and ordered a MA-4-5 without any consideration to the specific version. Another clue to the improper model was the idle setting. When adjusting to get the desired 25-50 rpm increase on shutdown we had to back the idle mixture screw well past the normal 1 1/2-2 turns.

I had a plugged injector recently. Engine ran normally at a lower power setting on the approach. I speculated enough fuel was getting by at the lower setting. Not sure about the dead egt.

Good Morning, My path, 120, 170, F, and now a Bravo. My F model ( with all the J mods except the wing root fairings) had fantastic dispatch reliability, great UL, and cruised at 146-148 true all day long on 8.8 LOP. With 64 usable it was a fantastic commuter.