slowflyin

Quick update- Called Lycoming Tech Support and they reference the parts manual and their assembly manual. No gasket required. I pushed back indicating mine had a gasket as well as some others and they replied, "when we assemble the TIO540AFB we do not use a gasket".

I pulled the turbo off my TIO540-AF1B for a rebuild and there was a copper gasket between the turbo and the transition. When I received the turbo back from OH there wasn't a gasket. I checked the Lycoming Parts Manual and it doesn't show one. Any advice????

Thanks!

She's back!

My experience is the same. I figure a three-hour flight gives my heart a good workout! Beats the heck out of the treadmill.

same issue here

Good Question Clarence. Not sure. I knew going in that my particular exhaust/turbo install would not fit on the test stand, and it would be run without it. That being said, I made the assumption there set up would be able to control/increase the MP. I'm a little embarrassed I didn't' get more specific. I'll ping them on Monday.

Guy (GEE BEE) did the hose package and all the ducting. I'll take some pics when I get it back together. He does pretty work!

I really can't offer good info. I purchased a set of new jugs (complete power pack) several years ago. A year or so later I sent them to Victor to clean up the valve seats and a work them over. When ask Victor to quote they discounted the price of the jugs and the cost of the work they had previously performed. I can say they are not cheap. I'm still spending money but I'm fairly certain I could have purchased new from Lycoming. Lycoming quoted 8 months for a zero time. I didn't ask about a new engine. Not wanting to wait, I chose Victor. Things add up- Overhauled Motor Mount, Hoses (27 If I remember), exhaust........ Lycoming is a great bargain as they include the exhaust, turbo, and more of the hose package. For what it's worth I used Jewell last year for an O360 and it runs like a top. Victor's pricing did go up after Jan. 1. You can go to the website and receive a quote withing minutes. When It's all said and done, I'll work up a total for my overhaul.

Victor

Here's a run with her spooled up a little more. This one lasted most of the day. Not the best video but I'll take what I can get. VID-20220324-WA0016.mp4

My first impression as well! Of course, they have straight pipes on her.

Short video of first crank of my newly rebuilt Bravo engine. The cell has a shroud for cooling that moves into place before the power is run up. She ran all day yesterday! No issues so she will ship on Monday. VID-20220324-WA0005.mp4

After years of trying different methods, I found a simple solution that works great for me. Right Side of the hour (minute hand on the right)- right tank, left side of the hour-left tank. Previously I questioned whether or not I switched tanks. Now I glance at my watch and quickly confirm.

I started with the turbo cool down method but have since moved on. I think it's probably as cool as it's going to when exiting the runway. I've been back and forth over the years, but the GAMI guys swayed me eventually.

I pulled my Bravo engine at around 2200 hours since 1994. No major work in its life except some minor exhaust work around 1700 hours. Don K might chime in. I think he has had great longevity out of his Bravo engines.

Not sure if it's been discussed but I don't think the g3X will drive your existing AP. I have the KFC150 and went through the same process. It's been a year or so and the details are fading. The bottom line for my situation was roughly a 10k delta between the 275s and one big Garmin screen if I wanted to keep my old AP.

I would file an ASRS report. Errors were made others could learn from. Thanks for the post.

Thought I'd share this pic as I found it interesting. This is the nut off my lower, outboard motor mount. I'm not questioning the engineering and understand shear versus tension. That being said, when I removed it, I said "Wow!".

Thanks for the quick reply! I don't want to replace. I'm more of a Mike B. inspect and repair or replace as necessary kind of guy. During this process I realized I didn't know how to properly evaluate the condition of these parts and/or the reasonable life expectancy. I've read post regarding cable failures........

I had planned to replace my throttle, mixture and prop controls while I had the engine off my Bravo but I'm having second thoughts. Now that the engine and mount are removed it seems like nows the time to do it. The 2k quote from Mcfarland has certainly got me thinking. My AC came off the line in 1994 and I really don't know if buying new controls is warranted. I certainly want to replace what's required but I'd like to be sensible as well. Is there a procedure for evaluating these cables? After 28 years is replacement a no-brainer??

Thanks for all the great advice. As always, Mooneyspace come through!

Thanks Clarence! That's exactly what I was thinking.

Good afternoon, Looking for some group wisdom. Pulled the engine mount off of my Bravo for an IRAN while the Lycoming is being overhauled. The bolts enter from the engine side with nuts on the cockpit side. However, the exploded view in the parts manual shows the opposite. This AC is a 1994 model and the log books don't indicate the mount has ever been removed. I can't find any relevant info in the SM. The SM adds to the confusion as it shows a mount attach points that don't match the PM.

To tie this thread off- picked the AC up on Friday. Thorough inspection revealed no addition damage. So 8 days from the event to the AC released back into service. I’m considering myself blessed. Found the part, shippers were on time, mechanic on the field was fantastic, and the FBO went the extra mile! Thanks again for all the thoughts and advice!