larryb

The company I got the net from has the rail mounts for Cessna and Piper. I asked if they fit Mooney, the guy tried one on the field but said they didn’t fit. A milling machine would be great, but I don’t have one nor access to one.

In my encore there is no cover or box. Just the battery. The battery has a manifold connector for the vent hose.

Bigger the better. You can never have too much battery capacity.

She is moving now from New Bern, NC to Treasure Island (San Francisco). Just made BM1.

Well, it holds 300 lb. when my hanging scale and ratchet winch arrive next week I will test it to failure.

If it is zip tied under the seat how will you monitor tank pressure?

My niece in the coast guard is also prohibited from traveling more than 100 miles from base due to COVID.

So here is how you fix that. Typical LED forward current is 20ma or 0.02 Amp. Resistor needed (28-2.5) / 0.02 = 1275 ohm. Round that to 1300 if you like. Power dissipation is (28 - 2.5) * 0.02 = .510 watts. Round that to 1W. So a 1 watt 1300 ohm resistor should do it. If you have the part number for the switch and can find the datasheet for the switch you could refine the numbers, but these should get you in the ballpark. Pay attention to the polarity when you install it. 10 cents each https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MOS1CT528R132J?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIAkLiGKeVnd8QhClgcYo4E0%3D Larry

My leaks were: Fill port. Previous mechanic over tightened fitting crushing compression fitting. Cut off and replaced compression fitting. O-ring fill port at valve. 20 years old, dry and stiff. Tank valve needed overhaul.

Why didn’t I think of that!

Perfect application for a 3D printer.

I’d like it to hold 500 lb each X 4. There are a lot of variations I could test. Different filaments. Different print orientation. Reinforcing aluminum plates, etc. I just need a piece of scrap seat rail to do his testing with. The pictures posted are the first draft.

I am working on a 3D printed seat rail mount project for a cargo net project. Since the part is made of plastic I would like to do some strength testing to determine if the design is adequate. If anybody has a piece of scrap seat rail lying around the hanger I would greatly appreciate it. Happy to pay for shipping.

It could be anywhere. I found and fixed 3 separate leaks to get my system tight. The last one was the hardest, the valve was leaking internally even while closed. And yes, the cable was properly adjusted. Required a valve overhaul to fix.

I had this happen in my Encore. The problem was a piece of the gear hardware gets super close to the up limit switch screw terminals, and can short out. Only visible with gear up on jacks. My shop had replaced the Up limit switch at annual, and 20 hours later this happened to me. Unfortunately for me, this manifested 2500 miles away from home and my shop. I was able to work around it by leaving the CB popped until ready to put gear down. I would move the LG switch to Down and then reset the CB and all was fine. The shop was not able to replicate on the ground, but the mechanic noticed a tiny burn spot on one of the screw terminals. It was an un-used screw, no wire connected. So he simply removed the screw and I never had the problem again.

Are you using an enclosure when printing ABS? I also use a Prusa. When I was working on my wingtip light project and realized I needed to print in ABS, all of my ABS prints were warping horribly and very weak, especially parallel to the layers. After I built an enclosure the ABS prints were perfect and strong. I also setup the slicer for a full draft shield around the part. The enclosure thing was a learning curve also. My first attempt included insulation for the enclosure. Then the printer got too hot, over 120 degrees F. I wound up removing all of the insulation for the enclosure. It now runs around 95 degrees F inside during a print. I moved the power supply outside of the enclosure.

ABS is used throughout the airplane. Royalite is ABS. The instrument panel cover is ABS.

It depends on the type of flying you want to do. Long trips and stay somewhere for a week or three? Taking the plane away from home base for a long period of time is more difficult in a shared situation. For me personally owning is the only way to have access to an airplane for the type of usage I want.

Perfect application for a 3D printed part.

When buying an airplane it is almost more important to pre-buy the seller than the airplane.

The actual hardware at the propeller end of things is certainly removed. No plate, brushes, etc. The only thing they did not take out is the timer in the back. The original equipment list in the W&B section however does not show the system removed. I was thinking maybe I found 5 lb UL. But... Reviewing the logbook they re-weighed the airplane after TKS was installed. That would have captured that the propeller hardware was removed. Maybe I could remove the timer and get 1lb back... The wires are 14 gauge. I don't think there is a relay in the circuit. If they left the current monitor installed, I have a spare in case the pitot heat current monitor dies. I'll have to look for it.

Found this in the tail today. The thing is, I don’t have electric de-ice, I have the TKS slinger on my prop. TKS was installed just a few hours after the plane was first sold. I am thinking the TKS installers should have removed it but did not. According to the original equipment list in the POH the prop de-ice is worth 5 lb and was never shown as removed.

Buy the O2D2 and don’t waste your money on anything else. It is that much better. A 24 cu-ft tank will last 24 person hours at 15,000 feet. You will have to refill you tank much much less frequently.

I just re-did the analysis. The delta is a bit less now. J: 101 flights 20,046 nm average speed cross-country 133 kT K: 167 flights 39,451 nm average speed cross-country 147 kT This is from the Garmin Pilot logbook report function. Mine has TKS, so not the fastest in the fleet. I do generally fly high, 12.5K on my regular KRHV - KTRK run, and 16.5K to 17.5K on my longer trips. I do not cruise at high power settings, most of the flights are 28" 10.5 GPH LOP. I'm not sure why this is, but it just seems that 75% of my flights involve a headwind component...

I owned a J for 5 years and a K for 3. According to GP the K is 20 kt faster block-block for a years worth of cross country flying each.