47U

Here’s the document, but not sure if the dialogue on the Grumman site was relevant. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2025-01/SSP-885-2.pdf

Sheet metal screws go into tinnerman nuts, which are pretty easy to replace. I’m not very ‘J’ smart, but there’s a pn for these in the IPC… Rereading your post… Are you saying the holes in the panels are wallered out to where you need to install a screw with a larger head?

Duh. So, Mooney made the switch guards in-house??? Then, they should have a drawing. Front page of the manual says Mooney International Corporation… revised in 2014. Inside pages refer to Mooney Aircraft Corporation, Inc.

Is the vendor MAC? Whomever that is?

Clean up the rust and primer as mentioned above is the best solution. The access in that area is sooooo restricted. I’ve been hitting it with a wire tooth brush (with a shortened handle) and spraying it liberally with LPS 3 every annual as a stop-gap and that has kept rust under control.

A search on controller.com shows a used one for sale at Dawson Aircraft… they’ll probably send you a pic so you can see how worn it is. https://www.controller.com/parts/search?SearchType=Start&PartNumber=560046 One of the salvage yards would likely have a serviceable down lock block.

Look for the SWPC STORE link at the top of the webpage. I installed these back in 2011. I got a third light for the A-post. As long as I have one incandescent bulb in the circuit, the dimmer rheostat works just fine. The camera overexposed the panel shot, but the LEDs throw a lot of light. (Hmmm, does anyone need an ARC autopilot, CP136, NAV121&122, KR86, or two Comm 120s?)

Has the prop installation index been verified?

I think you can make the new baffles following the pattern of the baffles that you remove. It looks like the rear baffle is the worst offender, the sides and front might be ok. Other notes (please forgive)… there’s a plenum just outboard of the upper left engine mount. I think there’s supposed to be a scat duct attached that directs cooling air down to the fuel pump on the back of the accessory case. Also, there’s a baffle screw missing on the rear baffle joint to the side baffle, third hole down… or is that where the ignition lead adel clamp is supposed to go(?). Regardless, that adel clamp is not secure and with the screw loose, possibly another source of air leakage. Lastly the prop governor cable is chaffing on the engine mount tube. There’s some spiral wrap on it, but it looks like the paint is gone and some rust forming on the tube.

I think this SB (from 1960) is superseded by guidance in mx manuals applicable to long rudder airplanes. For short rudder airplanes, it may provide some perspective. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-62.pdf

An avionics shop isn’t mandatory, but they would be the best resource to make your transformation successful. If you can do the CAD part, cutting a new panel might run only a few hundred dollars. If you hand over a panel sketch layout that needs to be programmed then that will be more. If you do the work, you need to have basic sheet metal experience mounting trays and such in a blank panel. If you can relocate the avionics, circuit breakers, etc., within the limits of their harnesses and pitot static connections, I would think your A&P would work with you. Many have been successful, but it’s not for the faint of heart.

That temporary solution isn’t all that horrible. You don’t need to drill it out, it’s already stripped. Just run the #10 tap through the hole and it works fine. Of course, you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the avionics access, too, which is maybe the worst part of the temp fix.

The fairing would be pretty easy to fabricate. Make a template out of a paper grocery bag and trim until you like the fit. It wouldn’t need to be aircraft aluminum, Home Depot sells some .020” 2’ square aluminum pretty cheap (I think). I don’t think my step fairing is original, based on the practice hole on the bottom side. My fairing looked pretty rough so I took it off and hit it with a rattle can.

That is correct. Just stick the duct out the left exhaust cavity with all the other hoses.

Pics from 2010, when I did the carb heat overhaul kit that LASAR recommended. The carb heat flapper shaft was so worn that it was eating into the air box. I had to make a little patch for it.

Here’s a link to a Don Maxwell article on the vintage carb heat system. The pictures are missing, but the words describe pretty accurately. https://www.donmaxwell.com/carb-heat-systems

The carb heat dump valve duct is routed to the left exhaust cavity. I think the blue print LASAR includes with the carb heat rebuild kit shows that in better detail than the IPC or mx manuals. The actual routing isn’t critical, though, as long as the hot air is dumped overboard.

Or, LESS DOORBELL! We had a pilot at Beale, ‘Mango’. His Christopher Walken impression was spot-on. ‘More cow bell’ was a running joke in the office.

Sucks not nearly as much as 6 hours in the car…

Your risk tolerance is what it is. A lot of pilot’s wouldn’t feel comfortable with only a handheld as a backup comm. The 650xi was released over 5 years ago so your 650 is at least that old. Avionics are certainly more reliable today as compared to 50 years ago when 2 nav/comms, one with ILS, and a DME was very capable panel. But, 5+ years in service is not a new radio. I think your reluctance to spend a few more amu’s because it won’t add value to the plane is debatable. I think most buyers today expect 2 nav sources and 2 comms as minimum equipment and might discount your airplane because it lacks redundancy (of course, I might be wrong). As a minimum, I think you need to add the second comm as @LANCECASPER posted links to possible choices, and if you’re relying on an iPad or handheld GPS for nav backup, or if your handheld comm also have nav capability, then that’s the choice in redundancy you’re made. (You’ve got a nice panel, but I think the designer should have planned the layout to support an additional stack nav/comm and CDI, just my opinion.)

Does your engine monitor identify which cylinder(s) are not participating? Sounds like one or more sticking exhaust valves, aka, morning sickness. Smart people will be along shortly… I’ve not finished my morning coffee so not fully awake.

You (likely) know your A&P better than any of us here. Have you been with him a long time? Does he have lots of Mooney experience? Do you have any directional issues on landing rollout? The collar on top of the donuts may fix that. There’s a SB on it. Any other steering issues? Looking at your video, I don’t think it’s that bad. When I went through my nose gear last year, it was a LOT worse than yours. Verify all the hardware is correct. There’s been changes in the hardware over the years. Just installing new hardware might satisfy your A&P.

Screenshot from aircraft.com… oil cooler is on the front cowl, not relocated behind #4 cylinder. There weren’t any pics in the ad with the cowling removed.

Welcome… pretty E model you’ve got there. I’m a C owner, O-360, but my CHT doesn’t act that differently than yours. Of course, I have a doghouse, which presumably your ‘75 E doesn’t have. And you have an ARI or SWTA cowling mod? I’m not sure what affect that has on CHTs. At only 50 hrs SMOH you could still be breaking in the cylinders, especially if the overhaul shop didn’t run it on the test cell. Was the overall done with chrome cylinders? They might have a reputation for running hotter CHTs. So, start with standard troubleshooting the baffling. Good sealing against the cowling, the flexible pieces are bent the correct direction, gaps around the starter and alternator, inter-cylinder baffles on bottom of the cylinders are installed correctly. There’s many threads on lowering CHTs. As far as low oil temperature, I’d start with verifying the gauge is accurate. The sender can be put in boiling water to verify. It that’s good, then looking at the vernatherm to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. There’s threads on that, too. An engine monitor is a good thing… my factory CHT runs hotter on the scale than what is indicated on my UBG-16. Top picture is from the sales ad showing the gauge scales more clearly…