47U

I’m guessing it’s 180 degrees out of whack. Diagram shows the nipple on the top, picture shows the nipple on the bottom. So, that filter is hooked up to the wrong port.

I’ll be the guinea pig and take a shot. I’d say the black vacuum hoses to the filters are looking pretty tired… but I don’t have an autopilot in my ‘63/C and have never seen the installation in the tail. Is that it, or something else?

On the flush vent door version (‘63), the wire is below the screen. My wire broke at the forward end. I did a temp repair which got me by for a while. When I replaced the mixture cable with a McFarlane PMA, it had to be cut to length. There was enough left over that I replaced the Bowden cable with a piece of left over mixture cable. A nice and smooth teflon lined Bowden cable. There’s a plug on the left side of the air box for a screw driver to loosen the screw to get the wire free. It was stuck and I surely didn’t want to strip it. I sprayed it with some AeroKroil and forgot it about for a few weeks. When I came back to it, the screw loosened up smooth as butter, like a miracle. It was a challenge to get the new wire back through the hole, but persistence paid off. The pic is looking through one of the duct plenums. This repurposed mixture cable should last for a long, long time. As a side note, if you’re in there, replace the drain tube vinyl connection to the aluminum drain tube. Mine was hard as a rock and leaked like a sieve. My aluminum drain tube had also split from water freezing in it, so I replaced the entire length with vinyl tube. The air ducting could probably use replacing, too…

I’ve never had a complaint from a CFI on my right-side PTT switch… lower right side of the panel.

I don’t remember… does the ‘65E have a flush vent door? That changes how the wire is attached. This thread might help, but the really good thread from 2011, the pictures are missing…

https://www.aerographics.com/images/documents/kits/interior/Mooney_M20_Series_Interior_AeroGraphics_Placards.pdf They’ll make just the placards you need…

I’m not sure if ‘hearing’ yourself transmitting in the headset (sidetone) means you’re actually sending out a signal through the antenna. I’d verify that it’s transmitting with a radio check with someone.

Cliffy speaks the truth.

This would be true if the battery is located in the avionics bay in the tail. I think (?) all the C models (unless modified) have the battery on the left side firewall above the pilot’s footwell. My battery is grounded to the engine case, so the path to the starter is from the starter solenoid, to the starter, through the engine case, and back to the battery negative post through the ground wire on the engine case. My battery is grounded to the engine case just above the lower-left engine mount isolator.

I don’t have a pic of it installed, but this pic out of the box pic. I put it in my buddy’s ‘68G in May last year. I took a pic of the data plate to have reference for the logbook entry. Found a pic of it installed in a previous MooneSpace post… pre-J, probably similar to yours.

With anything electrical, first check the grounds. Where does the battery negative terminal cable go to? And then check all the other electrical connections in the starting circuit. Looks for signs of corrosion on the wires/cables/terminals. And don’t forget about the starter solenoid. Without knowing what year C you have, it could be just inboard from the ship’s master solenoid on the firewall. The heavy cable from the starter will be attached to the starter solenoid. Maybe a long shot… engine heat could be affecting the starter solenoid after shutdown?

You called it… there’s a lot of restricted airspace off the southeastern coast. Makes the NTTR and UTTR look small by comparison.

Those coords were previously associated with GPS testing in Apr-May by Carrier Strike Group 4…

Rebuild kit for the carb heat system is part number 600063-900. It includes the shaft, shaft plain bearings, flapper door, the hot air dump valve off the muffler shroud, and bits and pieces including the blue line drawing to install. (When I installed the kit 15 years ago, it was around .8 amu…) The carb heat door shaft is part number 600071-000, listed on the LASAR website. A search of that part number on controller.com yielded a hit, but the noun was ‘component’. I’d expect the noun to be ‘shaft,’ but might be worth a call. Surely one of the salvage yards would likely have a shaft that’s serviceable… but I think that for almost .5 amu, a machine shop could make your’s serviceable, either by welding new material and filing it round, or perhaps machining the oval back to round and then bushings to match the bearings in the air box.

What engine work did the shop do during the annual inspection? What, if anything, changed?

Would an hour spent discussing the 100hr inspection checklist be beneficial? How many owners have actually read through the checklist to know what your shop is tasked to do during the inspection? For instance, is your shop/A&P/IA performing a pre-inspection engine run? https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/100-HOURANNUAL-Inspection-Guide.pdf

Even for back in the day… that’s more than a little alarming, lack of documentation of maintenance performed. Previous life, I was a crew chief. My wifee, RN. In both settings, if you didn’t document, it didn’t happen. My conspiracy theory is, back in the day, the A&P/IA wrote as little as possible in the logbook, to (perhaps) 1) maintain as much value in the aircraft as possible, and 2) to not raise ire with the owner of the aircraft. I had a Cherokee for 20 years before the now 15+ years with my ‘63C, and my IA told me that I write too much stuff in the logbook. But, where I came from, if the shop didn’t have a discrepancy, they didn’t touch the aircraft. Discrepancy first, then Corrective Action. My airplane has been on the ground three times without benefit of deployed undercarriage. Twice on landing, and a jacking incident. The first was only 6 months out of the factory, and it’s the only one that has any documentation. And that’s not even in the logbook, but on a 337. I’m glad that eventually your got your carb heat sorted out… and maybe learned some lessons on ownership?

Interesting. I’m curious as to what was documented in the log book…

Footballed? LIke this? The rebuild kit isn’t available? If worst comes to worst, remove the shaft from the flapper, take it down to your local machine shop. Have them weld some new material onto the shaft then file it down to size. If the end plate is also worn, that’s another issue. Mine was so worn I had to patch the hole it wore in the airbox. I still have this shaft, if you need a donor.

Here’s a listing for the -18… https://www.controller.com/parts/details/550051452102 -004 https://www.controller.com/parts/details/550129825557 -005 https://www.controller.com/parts/details/550031448473 I’m sure I have a -17 left over from my nose gear rebuild last year, if you can’t find new stock. Edit… a -17 at Texas Air Salvage, so they say… https://www.texasairsalvage.com/main_view.php?editid1=278857

True. Perhaps the A&P’s assistant didn’t install the adel clamp? If you are on good terms with the shop maybe give them a heads up… help them identify if this particular individual is ‘chronic.’ My first 100 hr (for annual), I found a brake master cylinder in which the aft clevis pin had no cotter pin installed. Obviously, asymmetric braking at the wrong time could be very bad. Previous owner attributed the mistake to the shop’s part-time helper.

Just out of annual inspection? The inner gear door was removed for some reason? Brake relining, maybe? Good catch. When you’re in the game, sooner or later it’s your turn. That’s just the way it is. Just don’t be chronic. They left a big glob of grease on the lower shock tower linkage. Some cleaning should be done, before AND after lubrication. I, too, wish I was perfect.

Timothy… is it too late for nit-picking? Adjustable cowl flaps (62C?)… you might benefit from exceeding the book spec of 1.1” by a skosh, if your A&P allows. Did someone replace your doghouse tinnermans with rivnuts? Rivnuts has a little shoulder to them, potentially leaking some air? Is that red RTV on the intake and exhaust gaskets? Curious. Intake tubes wrapped with exhaust header tape? Curious. What is that tube running aft from the #4 rocker box oil drain tube, it’s routed outboard of the #4 exhaust stack. It’s smeared with something? Am I seeing things? Is that the starter cable? I see what appears to be some FOD in between some cylinder fins on #3. Is there a SureFly mag along with the PowerFLow exhaust? I’m crawling back into my hole… you really don’t have to respond to any of this if you don’t want to. Thank you.

That looks like some serious eyeball engineering… crazy. A PowerFlow exhaust STC? Have you checked the carb to make sure it is the higher fuel flow part number? There’s a thread on that somewhere. Here’s one, from 10 years ago…. And finish your baffling repair initiative. What year C… fixed cowl flaps? Has anyone ever installed the louvers in the side cowl panels that you see with aftermarket turbocharger installations on C models? That would increase outward airflow (I’d think). Keep us posted… good luck.

Resurrecting this thread… Paul, are you still using the Dresser butyl tubes? I installed a Aero Classic butyl on my nose in 2013 and it lasted 9 years before a pin hole appeared. The nose tire was almost gone at that point, so (in April, 2022) I put on a new tire and another Aero Classic butyl tube. This tube lasted only 3 years 2 months before the pinhole (in the sidewall) appeared. The tube was installed with tire talc and there were no indications of a fold or other installation error. The tire interior surface doesn’t have any apparent defects. Close inspection of the tube reveals several more suspicious, possibly developing pinholes. What are the masses seeing with robustness/longevity on the tubes? I’ve ordered another Aero Classic, but thinking I might go with Michelin or Goodyear, regardless of the price difference.