47U

I rebuilt my nose gear last summer (mostly for aesthetic reasons) … you’re welcome to the bushings I removed, if you don’t have a better option.

Were the bushings included?

Sorry this happened. 1. Did not occur in flight. Yes, I would put some speed tape over the top of it before flight. 2. I think ‘someone’ egressing the cockpit caught a piece of clothing, a snap/button/tool on the skin. Unintentional, but stuff happens. 3. I don’t think I’d scab patch it… probably try for a flush repair, which will require a doubler under the skin. Maybe, a 2” to 3” half circle? I think the skin is pretty thin there (.025” 2024 T3 Clad), which wouldn’t normally be thick enough material to use countersunk rivets, but since it’s not structural, for aesthetics I might do it anyway. Some careful fitting of the patch will be required so it lays flat agains the door frame. And seal the seam against the door frame with some PRC or something that won’t work loose over time. A flush patch would have less risk of getting caught on something again as opposed to a scab patch. I think replacement of the entire skin panel would be overkill and really expensive. If it’s the top skin, index 34, ugly. If it’s the door post skin, index 35, maybe not so bad. Forgive me for reposting your pics in a different orientation…

Same for the prop governor if that is the same. Should be upgraded.

IPC fig 55 ind 33 pn 740020 or 740020-501. Got one hit on controller.com https://www.controller.com/parts/search?SearchType=Start&PartNumber=740020 Hope it works out…

So, was ‘64 the year Mooney switched the housing material to royalite, vs aluminum in previous years? Are you able to expand your search to the ‘63 and prior model year? I stripped and repainted my aluminum housing, Aerographics (I think) had the decal… seems like it might work if you can find an aluminum housing from an earlier year? I still have the original decal that you could compare to your anodized plate. That’d be the only concern, that the scales can be matched up, right?

Copilot side? If it were the pilot’s side it’d be for fuel selector illumination. Copilot side, I couldn’t find it on the 65C electrical schematic. Hmmm.

As to the fuel caps, I suspect you might need to replace the filler necks. They look pretty bad. Not sure if they’ll clean up. Caveat, I have different fuel caps in my ‘63 C so no real experience. The nav antenna was replaced in my C by the previous owner in 2007 or 2008, same issue as you, weak nav signal. It might be time. Obviously the coax and connectors require inspection… or replacement. There’s a couple structural tubes behind the panel restricting the center radio stack at the top. Nothing with any depth fits. It looks like the previous owner tried to shoe horn in more radios that will fit by mounting them at an angle to clear the tubes. Some different radios would be the solution. Trig makes a nav/comm that’s only 1.3” tall, TX56A. Or Garmin… I think has a new replacement for the SL30. Calaveras? Not too far away. Enjoy your new to you Mooney!

It does seem that the issue arrived after the switching to mineral oil for the break in of the cylinders. Once the cylinders stabilize, will switching back to 100w be the cure? How old/hours on the ATH-1? As to the prop, 1100 hrs since the hub was replaced might not be a lot, but 2012 was a long time ago, calendar wise.

I don’t know anything. Would it be possible that Mooney drawing 940141 specs a different pn single puck brake than what was originally installed at the factory? Look up the caliper pn in the IPC for your serial number, then get the caliper pn off the drawing, or look at the caliper and read the pn directly off the part installed.

First oil change… so the airplane is new to you? As @Ragsf15e says, probably spit out the breather. If you have an 8 qt sump, and you put in 8 qts plus 16 oz CamGuard, then you were definitely overfilled. The CamGuard ratio is 1.6 oz per quart of oil, so following Rags15e procedure, after the oil change put in 7 qts oil and 11.2 oz CamGuard. (Or, 6 qts oil and 9.6 oz CamGuard.)

There’s a couple different configurations… and might be cheaper via salvage yard. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wicksflushlatch.php

There’s no substitute for experience.

That works just fine, but the airplane lands with no issues flaps up, which simplifies a missed approach option. I flew my practice approaches at 90 kts, which is above the flap speed. No flaps approaches puts less stress on the aft center spar spice. Have you inspected for cracks IAW M20-217?

USPS is having issues. Last fall, Mom sent me her Apple watch for an OS update. Arrived in five days. I sent it back Priority Mail, it took 10 days and went through Ohio before coming back to Iowa. Then, Mom mailed her annual box of Christmas cookies (and lefse) from Northern Iowa (Rudd, 50471, 17 DME east of MCW), headed for Roseville, CA (Sacramento), 95747. 16 Dec, in USPS possession, Rudd, IA 17 Dec, arrived Cedar Rapids, IA 2 Jan, arrived Anchorage, AK 4 Jan, departed Anchorage, AK 15 Jan, arrived Seattle, WA 17 Jan, arrived Sacramento, CA 18 Jan, arrived Rancho Cordova, CA (east side of Sacramento), then back to Sacramento the same day 19 Jan, arrived Des Moines, IA (WTH? NOW it gets on an airplane?) 22 Jan, arrived Mason City, IA 24 Jan, arrived Cedar Rapids, IA, then Waterloo, IA, the same day. 26 Jan, arrived Des Moines, IA 2 Feb, arrived Sacramento, CA, then Roseville, CA, the same day 3 Feb, delivered to the addressee, Roseville, CA The address was written in cursive, but wasn’t by ANY means illegible. The zip code was completely legible. The box was intact, no damage, but the cookies were dust and the lefse a 5 grade science experiment growing mold. There was ‘Loop Mail’ barcode sticker on the box… no kidding. I have USPS tracking screen shots of the entire debacle. Mom did not get her money’s worth for $20.95 spent on Priority Mail. My wifey was happy the lefse was moldy (potatoes, butter, and sugar… what’s not good about that?), but very bummed about Mom’s Christmas cookies turning to dust. They are the best.

https://www.controller.com/parts/search?SearchType=Start&PartNumber=AN919-2D

This statement is just a bit open-ended. Sounds like a catch-all statement allowing the FAA to hold a mechanic accountable for anything and everything.

If the corrosion is that extensive that you’re talking about replacing the entire main spar, I think you’re money ahead to replace the whole wing. Wing replacement is the ‘ball park cost’ you’re looking for.

Or, it might look like this pic… Or, you could have an issue on the top end. It’s a round terminal crimped to the Bowden cable wire. If you take the trim cover off, all the tinnerman nuts in the nose wheel well will fall off. Get some speed tape and tape them down before removing the screws.

Words of wisdom.

I’m not sure, but that throttle cable doesn’t look factory. I could be wrong. Regardless, as N201MKTurbos suggests, you could try spraying some silicone spray, or maybe some LPS2 in the to see it if the button can be freed up. If that doesn’t work, McFarlane is still your best bet. They can provide you with the paperwork to fulfill the requirements of an owner produced part. It wasn’t that long ago that McFarlane had only the mixture cable PMA’d for vintage Mooney’s, and I did the paperwork for the throttle and prop governor to replace all three at the same time.

Welcome, BrettD… Best option? McFarlane is the go-to for replacement throttle/prop/mixture cables. I think they’re even PMA’d for Mooney now, as opposed to an owner produced part.

Likely, the mount bolt spacing is the same, but the pic below is the ‘63C tail tie down/skid plate version. The eyebolt isn’t listed in moodychief’s ‘61-‘64 model’s IPC (as far as I could tell). The ‘65-‘68 IPC lists the eyebolt as pn 350122-001, the ‘68-‘76 IPC (Manual 205) as pn 350122-003. Salvage yards are your best bet, if you want a legit Mooney part. Eyebolts from the hardware store can probably be made to work, at your (and your A&P/IA’s) discretion.

Engines and electrical. And develop the instinct that whenever you’re working on the airplane, look for chaffing. Since you’re an owner, you can take the time to address those issues. Come to terms with the limits of your mechanical abilities and when you need to, get some help.

Wow. After seeing your last post I’m in 100% agreement with those who recommend replacing the affected wing skins. Not sure what part of Texas you’re in… but if you’re disassembling the aircraft (either removing the tail or wing from the fuselage) for flatbed transport then that opens the potential repair locations. Don Maxwell has rig for transport with the tail section removed. Mooney will manufacture the wing skins, inquire with your favorite MSC for pricing. Hopefully, no ribs or stringers are damaged. Your MSC will also likely have recommendation(s) on who would be a good repair facility.