M20F-1968

This is not a difficult problem. Contact Aircraft Accessories in Oklahoma. https://aircraftaccessoriesofok.com/ They have the ability to take a pop-off valve of similar type, and change its crack pressure, and re-label it with the new part number due to the change. Should not be difficult finding a valve that can be rebuilt, converted and re-tagged. John Breda

Paul: I think I was already added to the map (if not please do so). I do not recall having received the link to the map. Please send that. Thanks, John Breda

Smccray: Just sent you a PM. John Breda

I have entered the dates for Summit VII on my calendar and will be there. John Breda

I have the Mountain High O2D2 Oxygen conserver: http://www.mhoxygen.com/index.php/portable-pulse-demand It is well worth the price. It will accommodate 2 people. It works well as a conserver. A 7 hour flight drops my O2 cylinder pressure from 1800 --> 1500 psi. When you breath ism you can hear as feel the puff of O2 so you know the system is working. It is quite comforting, kind of like a clock ticking. When you don't hear and feel it with each breath, you will know it and the box will alert you. Highly recommended. John Breda

There were originally phenolic blocks which served as a means to reduce the hole in the aluminum and act as a guide. However, the phenolic material itself was abrasive. With a DER approval we made similar blocks out of nylon which not only act as more effective guides, but also are much less abrasive. They are installed just as the phenolic blocks were installed. John Breda

There were originally phenolic blocks which served as a means to reduce the hole in the aluminum and act as a guide. However, the phenolic material itself was abrasive. With a DER approval we made similar blocks out of nylon which not only act as nore effective guides, but also are much less abrasive. They are installed just as the phenolic blocks were installed. John Breda

Has anyone tried this flexible funnel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KTC3FO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8&psc=1 I have a quick oil drain on the left (Lycoming IO360-A1A) which I can reach by opening the L cowl flap. Tried using amazon doggie bags (which fit over oil filter) but there is not much of room to bring the opening of the bag around the filter so it indeed catches the oil. I am trying to not take the lower cowling off. Is there enough room (Under the loosened oil filter) to snake this flexible "funnel" sheet to direct the oil that is inside of the filter outside of the cowling, perhaps through one of the cowl flaps? Amazon.com_ Form-A-Funnel Flexible Funnel 29_ L x 5_ W (Aviation)_ Automotive.htm John Breda

Sorry, though it did not post.

There is such a device - it is a pre-oiler. It is available by STC. I have one, originally planned to put it on the airplane but then chose not to as a weight saving measure. I spoke with Dugosh back in the day when I was doing my rebuild and they though it was not necessary. I still have the pre-oiler and all of the paperwork should I want to install it. The manufacturer of the pre-oiler states that it absolutely decreases wear. Reportedly the bulk of engine wear occurs at start-up, particular in colder temperatures. Any thoughts? John Breda

There is such a device - it is a pre-oiler. It is available by STC. I have one, originally planned to put it on the airplane but then chose not to as a weight saving measure. I spoke with Dugosh back in the day when I was doing my rebuild and they though it was not necessary. I still have the pre-oiler and all of the paperwork should I want to install it. The manufacturer of the pre-oiler states that it absolutely decreases wear. Reportedly the bulk of engine wear occurs at start-up, particular in colder temperatures. Any thoughts? John Breda

There is such a device - it is a pre-oiler. It is available by STC. I have one, originally planned to put it on the airplane but then chose not to as a weight saving measure. I spoke with Dugosh back in the day when I was doing my rebuild and they though it was not necessary. I still have the pre-oiler and all of the paperwork should I want to install it. The manufacturer of the pre-oiler states that it absolutely decreases wear. Reportedly the bulk of engine wear occurs at start-up, particular in colder temperatures. Any thoughts? John Breda

There is such a device - it is a pre-oiler. It is available by STC. I have one, originally planned tpo put it on the airplane but then chose not to as a weight saving measure. I spoke with Dugosh back in the day when I was doing my rebuild and they though it was not necessary. I still have the pre-oiler and all of the paperwork should I want to install it. The manufacturer of the pre-oiler states that it absolutely decreases wear. Any thoughts? John Breda

I bought a set of these to try. $5.99 for the three. The large one holds some suction against the wing. Have not tried them for real outside though. As anyone else tried these. John Breda https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N2IJM8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The tube I bought is polycarbonate and has a 1/4" ID. I can get one that is 1/8" ID, made from either polycarbonate or acrylic. Which should I try next? John Breda

Fred_20: The tube I bought is polycarbonate and has a 1/4" ID. I can get one that is 1/8" ID, made from either polycarbonate or acrylic. Which should I try next? John Breda

Perhaps there is a MS'r that knows both plastics, physics and hydrocarbons. Several years ago I bought some thick-walled, rigid, clear plastic tubing. It's outside diameter was a half-inch, inside diameter 1/4 inch, with a wall thickness of 1/8 inch. my purpose was to use it as a fuel tank gauge. I expect to be able to cut it to length, polish the ends, and use it essentially like the pipette with a an engraved scale on the outside, calibrated in gallons of remaining fuel. I dragged it out this past weekend, cut into length, sanded and finished the ends, and drop it vertically into the tank. I put my finger over the end as I would a pipette, pulled two out with my finger on the end of the tube, and the fuel despite my finger basements, promptly ran out of the tube. I even went to the point of putting a bit of oil on the end of the tube to ensure good seal or even using duct tape and the same result occurred. whenever I've seen pipettes in a chemistry lab, they usually have a small outlet and small hole at the top over which one places one's finger. Can someone quantify the physics going on here. does this simply have something to do with the diameter of the tube itself or is this some sort of interplay between the hydrocarbon fuel and the plastic tube? John Breda

I have some new news on my oil pressure issues. I spoke with PenYan who initially worked on my engine. We spoke generally about the problem. They focused on the need for a source of resistance in the turbo line. I already have a pressure relief valve. I also spoke with Lycoming and other engine shops and they concentrated on the pressure relief valve. We installed a new spring in the pressure relief valve (2 springs stronger than the one that was producing 60 psi) one washer. I new get 95-100 on start-up. When 150 degrees oil temp, running 2400 RPM on the ground, I get 78 psi. Given that the initial start-up pressure is so much higher than it was, adjusting the oil pressure relief valve seems to be the answer. Changing to the new screw-type oil pressure relief valve will probably do nothing, but install a part that 1) could change adjustment as the screw is only held with a lock nut, 2) has the potential of leaking. I think if I had the screw-type, i would change it for the washer type.

I just spoke with JPI about this today. Initially my mechanic calibrated the JPI 930 fuel gauges with 5 data points (max allowed). Namely, 0, 2,3, 4, F (corresponding to 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, Full). Numbers in gallons were assigned to each data point. I should be able be recalibrate each data point (rename with No. of gallons remaining) using my fur totalizer (which measures actual fuel used by way of the rotary sending in the fuel line). This should correct for the non-straight line fuel filling in the top 1/2 of the main tanks during which time both the main and aux tanks are filling. The sender arm will move less with each twenty gallons added, than compared to filling the lower 1/2 of the main tanks. Once the main tanks are filled, I would list that as known fuel (which may be about 8 or so gallons less then topping off the aux tanks as there is no way of measuring that. The fuel totalizer will account for it though so there is a way to know accurately how much fuel is used, how much fuel remains (by way of the fuel totalizer) and this can be cross referenced with the gauges from the tank senders. But, the senders will not be able to account for the last approx 8 gallons put into the aux tanks. Any other thoughts? John Breda

So I am still trying to sort out my oil pressure issue. The engine is an Lycoming IO-360 A1A I started out with 60 psi in cruise, with 40 year old spring, #68668 and 4 washers = 60 psi Added 3 washers = 61 psi Changed to new 61084 spring, with 2 washers, ground ran with 75 psi (cold old oil) Added two more washers with 61084 (now total 4 washers) = ground run-up to 2000 RPM = 80 psi 1 week later, flew the plane after changing oil, 60 psi upon starting and 60 - 67 (at most) in cruise (typically 62-63 psi) I think I need to put a gauge of the engine to determine what pressure I actually have. Perhaps put in the next heavier spring (LW-18085) Any thoughts? Should it matter that it is turbo normalized, therefore has more oil volume in the system? John Breda

I have seats from an Ovation in my F. The pilot seat slipped backward on occasion. Fortunately it never did this in the air. We looked for a reason and decided to change the two seat locking pins in both pilot and copilot seats. The seats lock in much better and it is much more reliable to test that the pins are positively in the holes by pressing down in the bar. The old pins were ever so slightly bent. For those of you who re having problems, consider this as a possible reason for the problems. The pins are expensive, $100 each. John Breda

FYI: It took me over 10 years to rebuild my aircraft. The fuel system was rebuilt back in 2003 but the plane did not start flying regularly until 2014. At that time, I took the fuel servo system out and had it rebuilt and put in a new fuel pump (because of the 10 year limit). When rebuilt in 2014, the rebuilder found a diaphragm in the fuel servo installed that had the letters signifying that it was subject to an AD, prior to 2003. The diaphragm was either replaced with a new diaphragm that had an AD, or it was never replaced at all. (The engine was rebuilt in 1983 to new specs but was not run, so mybe he decided it looked good and he could get away with it). The engine went to PennYan in 2003 and the fuel servo went to a local Dallas shop in the same year. The moral of the story, better to send your accessories out to a shop of your choice (not one selected by an A&P), or better yet, let the engine rebuilder address the accessories as well. Too much can go on behind your back. John Breda

Each washer is, per Lycoming, is supposed to be 5 psi. The next stronger spring and 3 less washers got me to 80 psi at 2000 rpm ground run-up (I was 62 psi before). john Breda

Landing with speed brakes out seems to work best when you want to carry more power due to crosswinds, turbulence, etc... When you use them you will want full flaps, gear and a dirty plane so you can add more power. You will still configure the plane and land it in the same way, just with more power. The plane feels heavier, and more stable. The downside is it is less efficient and without crosswinds or conditions which make you want more power, conventional landings feel more elegant. The plane will still do a go-around initially with gear, full flaps and speed brakes, but you need to keep the nose flatter and keep the speed up while still climbing. The speed brakes can be brought back in quickly, gear and then flaps (or raise 1/2 flaps, gear up, then the rest of flaps). John Breda

Lycoming stated to me they want the oil pressure in cruise to be about 80 psi. Start-up should be no higher than 115 psi (they did not indicated a MP or RPM with that). Oil pressure, all things equal, is higher when the oil is cold. What pressure are you all running in cruise? John Breda