M20F-1968

Would the fact that the engine is mounted with rubber Lord mounts insulate it sufficiently to break the ground connection? John Breda

I can give you some of my personal experiences. I have an extensively rebuilt and highly modified F that is more than a Factory J would be. I stripped the early into the project, with an A&P's helper and then myself doing the work. Years later I had two guys from Gulfstream doing mostly sheet metal work on the plane. The sheet metal work of the primary guy was first-rate, to the level that it was better than factory work, and as good as Beegle's in Colorado, which is saying a lot. Both had some experience sealing tanks and to fly the plane I needed tanks sealed. There were leaks after they finished which they tried to seal. It was good enough to fly to plane from point A to point B, but was not good enough to be the finished product. I took the plane to Paul Beck who completely stripped and resealed the tanks. If the two Gulfstrean guys could not do it, an owner who has never done tank work before will have leaks. Stripping both tanks will make the plane unairworthy. Stripping one tank will still allow you to fly it, but the shop you take it to will need to strip and reseal the other tank as well. You are not be gaining much, if anything at all. It is terrible, messy grunt work. There is really nothing to gain except maybe making a recycling device, testing your knowledge of fluid dynamics, for a device you will likely use once, maybe twice depending on how old you are. Give Paul Beck, Weep no More a call. He will advise you well. John Breda

I see no reason why the 67 and 68 E relative to the control cables. The 68 F has a different Johnson bar than the 67. There are some changes elsewhere, but you should be able to get what you need from McFarlane, or even find what you need as a stock cable from an MSC. John Breda

10 years ago: Turbo overhaul $1000 Scavenger pump overhaul: $500 John Breda

I bought a number of PTT switches that fit into the Mooney J-model yoke. They came in a low of 10 or so. If you need me to look for them I will. They work well and have a good feel to them. John Breda

I have a compass that came out of a 1998 Ovation with 400 hrs total time. I bought a flat-card compass. The Ovation compass has been in my stash of parts meant to be put on E-bay but never got around to it. You may want to mount it to the edge your your glareshield with a fiberglass housing that would be easy to make. John Breda

The tight space in our planes between the outbound side of the seats and the side panels is a particular concern for Mooneys. I am planning to but a fur sewing machine to enable making sheepskin seat covers for myself. I have Ovation seats so the seat bottom is velcroed to the bottom seat pan, and the back is as normally attached. I plan to make covers that have a sheepskin face on the seat bottom and seat back, and then have regular leather elsewhere. They will be made so the seat bottom slides into the bottom cover which is made like a pouch, and the back seat cover slides over the back from the top (headrest removed before installing). They will be tailored to the seat without any straps, and there will be an opening in the back to access the seat pockets. I am now retired from medicine and am willing to take on some projects. The other two people have contacted me about are 1) making travel boards, and 2) teflon seals for vintage flap pumps. I have some deadlines lurking for the next couple of months, but have not forgotten about these requests. I would be interested in doing sheepskin seat covers for people interested. The easiest would be Ovation owners as those are the seats I have (1998 model) and will have the patterns made, but I am up for requests. John Breda

Is there a 12 V LED version? John Breda

Call me at (617) 877-0025. John Breda

I will throw in my two cents. There were three aftermarket turbo systems applied to the IO-360 Mooneys. (Models E, F and J). The original RaJay Turbo system had a manual wastegate and no intercooler. Next in line was the Rocket Engineering turbo-boosted system for the J which is the one that was involved in breaking crankshafts and was taken out of production. M20 Turbos took the Rocket Engineering system exactly as it was designed except configured it on an IO-360 engine as a turbo normalized system with a pop-off valve set at 31 inches of manifold pressure, an intercooler, and keeps the original high compression pistons. It has a fixed wastegate. In that configuration with operating manifold pressure limited to 30 inches, it is a very good system. The STC's for both the original RaJay system and the M20 Turbo system are orphaned STC's. A turbonormalized E, F or J increases the capability of these planes considerably. The original E or F can only use the original RaJay system if it has the original cowling. The M20 Turbo system has STC's for the F or J only. The F cowling must be converted to a 201 cowling to be covered under the STC. John Breda

Also, when done, leave all screws 1 turn loose. Work very slowly with the sander to fit the lenses. The hardest part is to see that the lenses fit the curvature in all aspects of the compound curves without any stresses when fitted in place. John Breda

Allow about 8 hours to fit both lenses (sounds like yours are wing-mounted lights). You will need a combination disk/belt sander bench-mounted machine - The Harbor Freight version will work. Also get countersinks from Aircraft Tools Co. They have fluteless countersinks that have a single hole in the side. The cutting edge is the single hole. They do not chatter and will safely cut without cracking. Work slowly with the sander to fit the lens in place, with sufficient play. It should not fit tightly. The holes for the screws will also be oversized. The screw heads will use couner-sinked washers. Do not use the aluminum frame. John Breda

It doesn't matter as long as the thread type is proper, ande the screw (or likely machine screw) in long enough to easily reach the threds. What I dis, and the reason for my posting, his realize that the slot of the screw had is a PITA to access and engage with the 201 windshield and the height of my panel (which is an inch and a half higher than standard), I used a machine screw with a head that can be turned with either a socket wrench or ratcheting box wrench. This makes it a whole lot easier to take screws in and out and tighten them.. John Breda

I have some paperwork relative to the 201 conversion. John Breda

All you need to do is build the panel supports with 1/4" aluminum bars into which screws could be placed to hold the trays, etc... in place. When you need to get back there, just disassemble what you need to gain access. That is how my panel was designed. The panel itself uses an instrument panel bow taken from an Ovation. John Breda