M20F-1968

I am in Boston and have never had a problem with the system in the winter. It is a PITA to maintain and change pumps, but once it works it works. Of great help is to make lines that access all the pressure pot fittings and fittings in the system. I have a large pressure pot and a smaller one for the front. When filing the system, open it in the middle, hooking a line to the outflow of the pump, and push fluid forward bleeding it out the front. Then rehook up the rear line to the pump, and push brake fluid forward and bleed in out the front. The hardest part to prime is the pump itself. John Breda

This can easily be made from fiberglass. You will need flame retardant resin and antimony trioxide (as extra flame retardant - hard to find) however. John Breda

I have this part which I made as a hand lay-up. I now have it as a mold as I made another part from it using fire-retardant fiberglass. John Breda

I bought mine at LPAero Plastics when in Oshkosh years ago. Perhaps they still have them.

FYI: The claim has been made (by LASAR 20 years ago) that wingtips were not compatible with twisted wing Mooneys such as my 68 F and your 67 F. I never understood that given the nature of the twist, which installed the outer wing section with the outboard forward corner of the wing about 1" lower. That was the only change as I believe. Can anyone explain the incompatibility. (Not that I want to do anything to my plane now, but I might have 20 years ago).

I have collected many quality tools over the years of working on the plane during the rebuild and beyond. Many of them are SnapOn bought on e-bay at discount prices. You need to have a keen eye on what is acceptable. You will start to recognize good tools at discount prices that are essentially new. You will also learn what imported brands are actually high quality. The mechanic's work first of all is created in the mind of the mechanic, then comes the plan on how to perform the work. The tools are just a means to an end. But, you will find that the special job that requires a smaller, longer, modified, magnetized, or modified tool will make things easier. It is best when you have taken a section of the airplane apart more than 2 or so times, and know what to, how to do it, and with what tools. John Breda

You do not need to take it back out. It is difficult to prime and that is one of the obstacles. The second obstacle is a bend in the tubing near the front of the system. Both can be addressed by opening the system just after the pump by taking off the outflow AN fitting from the pump. You will need to make a new hose with the same type of AN fitting to connect a pressure pot to the pump, and pump new brake fluid forward, directly into and through the pump, and forward filling the brake fluid reservoir and out the reservoir overflow. You will have a clear tube attached to the outflow so you can see when there are no more air bubbles. When that is accomplished, take off the hose from the pump and re-attach the posterior part of the system to the flap pump. Do this quickly so as not to introduce air. Then move your pressure pot to the rear of the system and attach the pressure pot there. Push clean brake fluid from the back to the front until the fluid exiting the reservoir overflow tube is without air bubbles and is clean. Disconnect the pressure pot and seal the system. As I recall, the gear release handle needs to be in the down position to push fluid through the pump (but I may be wrong on this). There are only 2 positions so just try it. Once the pump is primed, the flaps should work directly. You may need to work the flaps and top off the reservoir. It is 4 to 4 1/2 pumps to lock-out. Time retraction per the manual. The adjustment screw is very sensitive. 10-11 seconds to full retraction is about right. Dont try to be cheap on this one. Buy a good pressure pot (BRAKE BLEEDER TANK - Aircraft Tool Co.- aircraft-tool.com) and a smaller pressure pot to fill the reservoir from the front. Most importantly, make up hoses with the proper AN fittings to connect to the hydraulic pump, the rear of the system, and to reservoir - (Vaper 19419 Red Spot Spray Non-Aerosol Sprayer (Red) - 32 oz - Amazon). You will need to find fittings to connect AN Fittings to the can. This will make life much easier, the project go faster, and will eliminate the mess usually made from leaking brake fluid everywhere. You may want to install pressure gauges on each.

I have travel boards and was planning on making some for owners needing them, but life gets in the way. I do not lend them or ship them as they are too big, too easily damaged, and too difficult to reproduce to lend or ship out. I do not see being available to make these in the near future (perhaps later in the year when it is warmer and I can get my shop cleaned out and workable) but I may be able to scribe (precisely mark with a sharp scriber) the outline of the travel boards onto marine plywood and make 1:1 cop[ies of the scales and which can be printed onto a suitable material to be mounted onto the boards. You could use that to make a set. I would give you the best location information for mounting the scales based on what I have. Cost would be for the marine plywood (which is what was used by the factory before aluminum), cost of reproducing the scales, my time and shipping. It is not feasible to make a paper template since it will not be sufficiently accurate. It will need to be a direct copy of an original board scribed onto new plywood and cut extremely carefully to the very edge of the scribe mark. It can be cut carefully with a variable-speed jig saw with an appropriate blade or a band saw with a large table.

A DER approval based on prior approved data, with the installation inspected by an IA, and paperwork subsequently filed with the FAA is sufficient. The cargo door has always been the same. The difference lies in the locking mechanism. The location of the locking pins remains the same.

You will likely need to physically trace the wiring.

That solid cable is quite stiff and the bend is likely longer and more subtle to still create binding. Stuff like that takes a lot of patience and time to resolve. I would not rule it out so quickly. Look carefully as to the position of the bend and the potential for binding.

When I did my rebuild I replaced the original F model door with a complete baggage door from a 1998 Ovation. Replaced the side of the piano hinge that is riveted to the airframe. It was cut and aligned to fit the other side that is attached to the door. Once installed, nothing needed to be changed or adjusted on the Ovation. Even the door seal is the one that was on the Ovation and it still seals. You do need to do a 337 and have prior approved data to support the replacement. I used a DER to do the paperwork. PM me if you need more info. Another advantage is the Ovation door can be opened from the inside. John Breda cell (617) 877-0025 email: john.breda@gmail.com

The exposed section of your solid wire cable is not perfectly straight. Not sure if that part is entering the cable housing, but I would try to straighten it as it will bind if that part is involved. Also, ACF50 is a great penetrant and lubricant. I have never used it for that cable however. I have used Triflow at the cable entrance in the cabin, and have also sprayed the outside of the cable along its length at each annual and let it work it's way into the hable housing through the spiral wire wrapping. John Breda

Another reason for installing 3" Rudder Pedal Extensions: I have wide shoulders, and had 1 1/2" extensions installed but still felt cramped by the L side panel. I installed 3" extensions on the pilot side only and feel less constrained. Food for thought. I have 3 holes exposed in the seat rails and the seat locks into the 4th hole. The Ovation (from which I obtained my brake system) comes with 1 1/2" extensions.

I may have one from when I restored my F and installed a J cowling. John Breda (617) 877-0025 emai: john.breda@gmail.com