M20F-1968

You do not need to take it back out. It is difficult to prime and that is one of the obstacles. The second obstacle is a bend in the tubing near the front of the system. Both can be addressed by opening the system just after the pump by taking off the outflow AN fitting from the pump. You will need to make a new hose with the same type of AN fitting to connect a pressure pot to the pump, and pump new brake fluid forward, directly into and through the pump, and forward filling the brake fluid reservoir and out the reservoir overflow. You will have a clear tube attached to the outflow so you can see when there are no more air bubbles. When that is accomplished, take off the hose from the pump and re-attach the posterior part of the system to the flap pump. Do this quickly so as not to introduce air. Then move your pressure pot to the rear of the system and attach the pressure pot there. Push clean brake fluid from the back to the front until the fluid exiting the reservoir overflow tube is without air bubbles and is clean. Disconnect the pressure pot and seal the system. As I recall, the gear release handle needs to be in the down position to push fluid through the pump (but I may be wrong on this). There are only 2 positions so just try it. Once the pump is primed, the flaps should work directly. You may need to work the flaps and top off the reservoir. It is 4 to 4 1/2 pumps to lock-out. Time retraction per the manual. The adjustment screw is very sensitive. 10-11 seconds to full retraction is about right. Dont try to be cheap on this one. Buy a good pressure pot (BRAKE BLEEDER TANK - Aircraft Tool Co.- aircraft-tool.com) and a smaller pressure pot to fill the reservoir from the front. Most importantly, make up hoses with the proper AN fittings to connect to the hydraulic pump, the rear of the system, and to reservoir - (Vaper 19419 Red Spot Spray Non-Aerosol Sprayer (Red) - 32 oz - Amazon). You will need to find fittings to connect AN Fittings to the can. This will make life much easier, the project go faster, and will eliminate the mess usually made from leaking brake fluid everywhere. You may want to install pressure gauges on each.

I have travel boards and was planning on making some for owners needing them, but life gets in the way. I do not lend them or ship them as they are too big, too easily damaged, and too difficult to reproduce to lend or ship out. I do not see being available to make these in the near future (perhaps later in the year when it is warmer and I can get my shop cleaned out and workable) but I may be able to scribe (precisely mark with a sharp scriber) the outline of the travel boards onto marine plywood and make 1:1 cop[ies of the scales and which can be printed onto a suitable material to be mounted onto the boards. You could use that to make a set. I would give you the best location information for mounting the scales based on what I have. Cost would be for the marine plywood (which is what was used by the factory before aluminum), cost of reproducing the scales, my time and shipping. It is not feasible to make a paper template since it will not be sufficiently accurate. It will need to be a direct copy of an original board scribed onto new plywood and cut extremely carefully to the very edge of the scribe mark. It can be cut carefully with a variable-speed jig saw with an appropriate blade or a band saw with a large table.

A DER approval based on prior approved data, with the installation inspected by an IA, and paperwork subsequently filed with the FAA is sufficient. The cargo door has always been the same. The difference lies in the locking mechanism. The location of the locking pins remains the same.

You will likely need to physically trace the wiring.

That solid cable is quite stiff and the bend is likely longer and more subtle to still create binding. Stuff like that takes a lot of patience and time to resolve. I would not rule it out so quickly. Look carefully as to the position of the bend and the potential for binding.

When I did my rebuild I replaced the original F model door with a complete baggage door from a 1998 Ovation. Replaced the side of the piano hinge that is riveted to the airframe. It was cut and aligned to fit the other side that is attached to the door. Once installed, nothing needed to be changed or adjusted on the Ovation. Even the door seal is the one that was on the Ovation and it still seals. You do need to do a 337 and have prior approved data to support the replacement. I used a DER to do the paperwork. PM me if you need more info. Another advantage is the Ovation door can be opened from the inside. John Breda cell (617) 877-0025 email: john.breda@gmail.com

The exposed section of your solid wire cable is not perfectly straight. Not sure if that part is entering the cable housing, but I would try to straighten it as it will bind if that part is involved. Also, ACF50 is a great penetrant and lubricant. I have never used it for that cable however. I have used Triflow at the cable entrance in the cabin, and have also sprayed the outside of the cable along its length at each annual and let it work it's way into the hable housing through the spiral wire wrapping. John Breda

Another reason for installing 3" Rudder Pedal Extensions: I have wide shoulders, and had 1 1/2" extensions installed but still felt cramped by the L side panel. I installed 3" extensions on the pilot side only and feel less constrained. Food for thought. I have 3 holes exposed in the seat rails and the seat locks into the 4th hole. The Ovation (from which I obtained my brake system) comes with 1 1/2" extensions.

I may have one from when I restored my F and installed a J cowling. John Breda (617) 877-0025 emai: john.breda@gmail.com

ASRS meaning NASA report?

So you know, that fuel valve is a part that was made for Mooney as a retrofit part to replace the original that is no longer available. I have a fuel selector made by the same shop in Ohio which is why I recognized the label and blue anodizing. My fuel selector and fuel bowl/filter combination for the later Vintage planes is listed in the Mooney parts manual with a selling price of something like $5000 or so. Treat it well. After searching I got the manufacturer's name (a machine shop in Ohio) from Mooney. John Breda

I agree, but it is such an important part, I would just be sure that your work is done properly, with the correct seals and installed without damage to the seal. John Breda

You do nothing differently. Fly your approach by the same numbers you would otherwise. You will need to carry more power to keep the same numbers (airspeed) and the plane feels heavier, but that is a good thing. In a crosswind the plane is more stable given that you are carrying more power. Some of my best landings have been when I extended speed brakes, forgot they were out, landed and realized they were still out on the ground. My mechanic (high time very experienced Mooney person) does all (or nearly all) landings in the Ovations and Acclaims he flies with speed brakes out. On a go around the plane will climb but realize the configuration you are in and do not be aggressinve. Keep the nose lower than you might without speed brakes out, retract the speed brakes as they are quick to retract, then raise gear, then flaps. John Breda

Rather than slipping to loose altitude or slow down, put out the speed brakes. I have speed brakes in my F (highly modified) and some of my best landings were done with full flaps and speed brakes. The plane flies just as well, you need to carry more power, it feel heavier (since I believe wing loading is increased) but you use the same numbers. Works well in a crosswind as it allows you to use more power. I have done one go-around in this configuration as well, getting rid of the speed brakes first as there is no altitude loss in doing so. John Breda

Your seats look quite nice. Who did your work? I am looking to cover my 4 head rests as well. Could you send me the name and contact information of the shop you used. I was going to cover them myself, but it may make more sense to have a shop do the work. I have an old Singer machine that will do straight stitching in leather. Roll Royce used a similar machine to manufacture their seats, but shops have the experience I do not have. If I did it, I would sew the cover inside out, but I do not know how the stitching on either side of the seam is placed. Are the two lines of stitches on either side of the sewn seam decorative, or do they reinforce the actual seam? John Breda