jetdriven

Rumor is the thicker glass is quieter. Mooneys are prety loud airplanes as the tubular structure transfers a lot of the vibration to the non-structural skin.

So what about draining the fuel, outside, and into a grounded metal can. ground the can to the airplane. We fuel airplanes this way.

You won't harm the plane, but you will incur cracks on the gear doors from excessive buffeting and you can cause more landing gear door and gearset wear because of the higher gear loads. Missed approach off an ILS, pitch up 7-9 degrees, get down to 100 KIAS or less. Climb, and get out of there. Then retract gear. I see a lot of students shove the power into their HP airplanes and the somatographic illusion causes them to fly level and accelerate. you must climb. Mwchanically, hard numbers, there is is in sight, climb. Gear retraction speed taken care of with that airspeed load.

The engine breathes filtered air. It is a 20k$ unit out there. Since you fly from a grass strip, the inside of your cowling is covered in dust, and your engine is eating it up. Lycoming says 1 TBSP of dirt can cause need for an overhaul. the engine is more efficient. A carbuteted engine using carb heat is running a less dense atmosphere. Run less MP, less FF, and a lower intake temp for the same crankshaft horsepower without carb heat. Powewr on descents are more efficient, IE less fuel burn per trip. Using a higher power setting in descent eliminates need for carb heat. If you get ice, you can detect it by a slow reduction in MP. The engine runs richer with carb heat on. This adds more lead and carbon fouling into the cyinder heads. Nobody believes this is good for an engine. Air cooled engines are designed to run a minimim of 250-300 CHT due to their tapered cylinder barrels. let downs at low power ruin cylinders.

KP I read that too, but the repair is done to the wheel not the hubcap. But NVM the details, this is splitting hairs. Legal, Safe. Cheap, Expensive, pick any two, one from each group. I know my favorites.

Our J has no carb hear or ram air. That was a poorly worded sentence on my part but I meant when I fly in aircraft that have carb heat. Other than a Comanche 250 or 182, which can make ice faster than a Hoshizaki, I usually descend with a minimum of 50%-65% power, and every few minutes, check the power with a gentle bump of throttle or a 5 second pull of carb heat. Now, when i reduce power in the pattern for landing, better believe it is on. I just doubt the need for carb heat 30 miles out. The J is WOT from takeoff roll until the 45 on downwind. Gosh, did I just admit to doing a 45 pattern entry??

I am not a certified A&P mechanic, but rumor has it that a heli-coil is an approved repair per AC43-13 for simple things like that, same as it is for a spark plug which is a critical item. Also, if you leave the hangar door ajar, sometimes the heli-coil fairy appears at midnight and waves her wand. She cannot write therefore no log entry. She also fixes leaky compass diaphragms from time to time and adjusts KI-266 DME indicators.

If your mechanic says replace the wheel over a stripped 8-32 thread in the boss of the wheel, replace the mechanic. Its an 8-32 x 1/4" phillips cad plated machine screw. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms35206.php

I'd love to see pics of this new steed. Having recently bought a Mooney ourselves, I know the feeling. A thrill having a plane that no-one can tell you when it needs to be back. For me it was the first plane that didnt belong to someone else, and for the first time ever, had no particular place to go or time to be there. Enjoy it!

Check with Mooney engineering and see. I bet you can get authorization to drill and tap two holes in that tube. There are holes in those tubes everywhere.

http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?page=1&mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=2009

Quote: Lood @ Jetdriven: I'm not sure. His explanation did make a lot of sense though. He explained how the swept up rear part of the wing tip would influence the flow of air to spiral inwards and deflect directly onto the outer part of the aileron. This would give it some extra authority during slow flight which, of couse is normally coupled with a higher AoA. With the normal square wing tip, the airflow would follow the easy way and deflect outwards, missing the aileron in the proccess. Does this make sense?

I like philips as you dont scratch the cowl if the screwdriver slips out.

I wouild guess aircraft spruce. You are going to need the screws about 3/8" to 1/2". At 5 cents each maybe just order 3 lengths .

Perhaps long term but a dose every now and then doesnt seem to harm it. My 93 eagle talon passed the sniff test two days after track night and it has a tailpipe coated in lead from the 112 leaded race gas. It has a cat and a wideband 02 as well. I did fill it up with regular gas first.

My 05 Honda Accord likes 100LL. It also has had a few gallons of 50:1 outboard gas as well. It loves it !

What autopilot do you have in it and what are they doing to it?

One pilot here has a 10,000 hour M20J and it flies like a new one.

Plexiglas works like wood. Just keep it at 70 degrees or more, tape the glass where you are drilling, and always drill with it backed up with something. The skin is dimpled 100 degrees to allow your screw to sit flush with the outer skin. That dimple is behind the skin, so you must countersink the plexiglas to allow the skin to nest inside it and all fit together tightly. Same concept with flush rivets. Both skins are dumpled before riveting. 100 degrees is the angle of the underside of the screw head. explanation here. insulation should be something other than fiberglass, ours has mylar. There was some yellow fiberglass by yhr baggage compartment and in the roof there. We are changing that. I dont know if there is insulation in the cabin by the windows. Quote: scottfromiowa Thanks for all the excellent information. This is awesome. I have already taken Mike up on his kind offer to lend me his bits for the project that will be completed in a heated hanger during annual. Good advise on having the plexi warm when working. Will also use 3M tape front and back. I'm a visual learner and while the suggestions on labeling the trim piece connectors and process for countersinking as explained sound straight forward...I have ZERO experience (besides cutting out a window in a tub enclosure on our first house...ledge was a great time) I am a novice on plexi. If the screw goes through the skin then through the plexi why/how am I countersinking the plexi? Seriously I am not seeing what everybody means here. Can somebody give me the exact brand and where to buy and quantity I will need for side windows on sealer? How long and what type of stainless screws do I need for .250 glass? I believe they are 100 degree counter sunk screws. Is the 100 degree the diameter of the screw or having to do with the head? Any special prayers to be uttered before beginning the task? (I will have an ANP there, but delicate and finesse are not Iowa gentetic traits) Thanks again for the feedback. If someone has a photo/s of the counter-sinking process I'd love to see it. I like the idea of drilling one attaching and drilling remainder in place. Suggestion was to do sides first. Round/reduce corners with belt sander or dremmel was a previous suggestion. I wonder what the insulation will look like once I get in there? Anyone replace theirs while all was out? Suggestions there for sources?

Scoot, excellently put. CHT is a nice long term trend but leaning to a value and verifying it with good CHT is a better method. We also have to run >50 LOP at lower alttude in the texas summer heat to keep CHT under 380. FWIW our Peak EGT value at a lower altitude and high power setting is around 1600. Full power std day temp sea level takeoff is 1350 with a FF of 18-18.5 GPH. From what I have read here, that is exactly what it should be at. Leaning to that 1350 target works well ((even on takeoff with a DA over 3k) until around 3-5K feet, where you can go leaner, to something like 1400-1450. Its below 75% power by then anyways.

Get some .040 ABS plastic sheet stock, some ABS cement, and some lightweight fiberglass cloth. Every piece of plastic with a crack, or a pulled through screw hole gets repaired and doubled up either with fiberglass or abs pieces from behind. You can spend a few hours at the house and really fix it up for about 20$. Generally, repair flat areas such as screw holes with a small piece of .040. Curved areas or long cracks get fixed with fiberglass cloth. Paint the crack with ABS glue, press a strip of fiberglass cloth into the glue, and then cover with ABS cement. Simply glue on small patches of .040. After an hour or so, carefully trim away any squeezed out glue on the front side with an X-acto knife as it is still soft. Or squeeze it into the crack to fill. After drying overnight the plastic is rigid, permanently fixed, and is done right. I even repaired my glareshield this way. After painting (Jim R has a great thread on that), repairs are invisible and the plastic isnt cracked up and falling apart. Screw your interior screws into balsa, paint the heads, and bake in oven 300 degrees for a couple hours for the final killer polished look. Since you are in DIY mode with windows, freshening up the plastic is going to make your Mooney look awesome. Quote: scottfromiowa I'm pulling interior and re-painting plastic and pulling head-liner for replacement re-glue of cloth. Any do's and don'ts here too? Photos of process or direction where they are MUCH APPRECIATED.

I like the idea of siphoning it out and putting it in the plane that you are going home in.

I thought on thin guage alumunum you use a dimpler? Quote: thinwing oh ..and counter sinking aluminum skin is no problem...prob the easiest part of job...use a 45 degree countersink bit turning slowly with an adj speed hand or air drill..kpc

Someone decided it was a major alteration. That person was likely a nimrod. Major alteration. An alteration not listed in the aircraft, aircraft engine, or propeller specifications— (1) That might appreciably affect weight, balance, structural strength, performance, powerplant operation, flight characteristics, or other qualities affecting airworthiness; or (2) That is not done according to accepted practices or cannot be done by elementary operations.

So is my non pilot neighbor. He said we should shut it off.