jetdriven

Perhaps long term but a dose every now and then doesnt seem to harm it. My 93 eagle talon passed the sniff test two days after track night and it has a tailpipe coated in lead from the 112 leaded race gas. It has a cat and a wideband 02 as well. I did fill it up with regular gas first.

My 05 Honda Accord likes 100LL. It also has had a few gallons of 50:1 outboard gas as well. It loves it !

What autopilot do you have in it and what are they doing to it?

One pilot here has a 10,000 hour M20J and it flies like a new one.

Plexiglas works like wood. Just keep it at 70 degrees or more, tape the glass where you are drilling, and always drill with it backed up with something. The skin is dimpled 100 degrees to allow your screw to sit flush with the outer skin. That dimple is behind the skin, so you must countersink the plexiglas to allow the skin to nest inside it and all fit together tightly. Same concept with flush rivets. Both skins are dumpled before riveting. 100 degrees is the angle of the underside of the screw head. explanation here. insulation should be something other than fiberglass, ours has mylar. There was some yellow fiberglass by yhr baggage compartment and in the roof there. We are changing that. I dont know if there is insulation in the cabin by the windows. Quote: scottfromiowa Thanks for all the excellent information. This is awesome. I have already taken Mike up on his kind offer to lend me his bits for the project that will be completed in a heated hanger during annual. Good advise on having the plexi warm when working. Will also use 3M tape front and back. I'm a visual learner and while the suggestions on labeling the trim piece connectors and process for countersinking as explained sound straight forward...I have ZERO experience (besides cutting out a window in a tub enclosure on our first house...ledge was a great time) I am a novice on plexi. If the screw goes through the skin then through the plexi why/how am I countersinking the plexi? Seriously I am not seeing what everybody means here. Can somebody give me the exact brand and where to buy and quantity I will need for side windows on sealer? How long and what type of stainless screws do I need for .250 glass? I believe they are 100 degree counter sunk screws. Is the 100 degree the diameter of the screw or having to do with the head? Any special prayers to be uttered before beginning the task? (I will have an ANP there, but delicate and finesse are not Iowa gentetic traits) Thanks again for the feedback. If someone has a photo/s of the counter-sinking process I'd love to see it. I like the idea of drilling one attaching and drilling remainder in place. Suggestion was to do sides first. Round/reduce corners with belt sander or dremmel was a previous suggestion. I wonder what the insulation will look like once I get in there? Anyone replace theirs while all was out? Suggestions there for sources?

Scoot, excellently put. CHT is a nice long term trend but leaning to a value and verifying it with good CHT is a better method. We also have to run >50 LOP at lower alttude in the texas summer heat to keep CHT under 380. FWIW our Peak EGT value at a lower altitude and high power setting is around 1600. Full power std day temp sea level takeoff is 1350 with a FF of 18-18.5 GPH. From what I have read here, that is exactly what it should be at. Leaning to that 1350 target works well ((even on takeoff with a DA over 3k) until around 3-5K feet, where you can go leaner, to something like 1400-1450. Its below 75% power by then anyways.

Get some .040 ABS plastic sheet stock, some ABS cement, and some lightweight fiberglass cloth. Every piece of plastic with a crack, or a pulled through screw hole gets repaired and doubled up either with fiberglass or abs pieces from behind. You can spend a few hours at the house and really fix it up for about 20$. Generally, repair flat areas such as screw holes with a small piece of .040. Curved areas or long cracks get fixed with fiberglass cloth. Paint the crack with ABS glue, press a strip of fiberglass cloth into the glue, and then cover with ABS cement. Simply glue on small patches of .040. After an hour or so, carefully trim away any squeezed out glue on the front side with an X-acto knife as it is still soft. Or squeeze it into the crack to fill. After drying overnight the plastic is rigid, permanently fixed, and is done right. I even repaired my glareshield this way. After painting (Jim R has a great thread on that), repairs are invisible and the plastic isnt cracked up and falling apart. Screw your interior screws into balsa, paint the heads, and bake in oven 300 degrees for a couple hours for the final killer polished look. Since you are in DIY mode with windows, freshening up the plastic is going to make your Mooney look awesome. Quote: scottfromiowa I'm pulling interior and re-painting plastic and pulling head-liner for replacement re-glue of cloth. Any do's and don'ts here too? Photos of process or direction where they are MUCH APPRECIATED.

I like the idea of siphoning it out and putting it in the plane that you are going home in.

I thought on thin guage alumunum you use a dimpler? Quote: thinwing oh ..and counter sinking aluminum skin is no problem...prob the easiest part of job...use a 45 degree countersink bit turning slowly with an adj speed hand or air drill..kpc

Someone decided it was a major alteration. That person was likely a nimrod. Major alteration. An alteration not listed in the aircraft, aircraft engine, or propeller specifications— (1) That might appreciably affect weight, balance, structural strength, performance, powerplant operation, flight characteristics, or other qualities affecting airworthiness; or (2) That is not done according to accepted practices or cannot be done by elementary operations.

So is my non pilot neighbor. He said we should shut it off.

Related: I had a 4 hour @&$#*&!$^ job installing that pilot side seatbelt clamp on the J. How did you do it?

Quote: NateZ Is it possible to easily get onboard weather with an Ipad and some sort of XM antenna attachment yet?

With that clamp, the bolt that holds it together is not centered on the tube. This may be an issue with where to put the strap, and the issue of holding the strap with a 1/4" machine bolt. I am pretty sure the factory drilled and tapped the fuselage tube for the strap. You might even have the holes there already, take a look.

I was more referring to Mooneymite. I use carb heat too, but only when there is a risk of carb ice.

I havent seen carburetor ice in any airplane as long as power is at ~50% or more, unless flying through rain with an O-470 or a Lycoming O-540. That is unfiltered air you are breathing, and the inside of that cowl is dusty from your grass strip.

The accident reports are full of low time pilots crashing high performance airplanes. I would say, respectfully, defer your decision to buy a plane until after you have your PPL and some hours in a HP/ complex aircraft. Perhaps buy and fly 172 or cherokee for a year, then make the transition. Further, these boards are full of pilots buying airplanes and then immediately having to put an engine in it or major repairs. Many of them owned airplanes before. It is a minefield and the process takes time with experience. It took us a year,and when we found the right one, we knew it.

where did he get the 14% value?

You can turbocharge the engine but you can't turbocharge the wing or prop. Your engine makes more horsepower with more RPM, given the same manifold pressure. Turbo guys can dial the RPM back and run more manifold pressure, and gain some of the frictional losses back while maintaing the same crankshaft horsepowerr. NA guys can only run a best power mixture, WOT, and use RPM to increase power. Quote: 201er So how do the turbo guys fly their machines in the flight levels? Is it a different prop or same one? Since the engine is getting complete aspiration, can you fly the same RPM settings as a non turbo at low altitudes? Or do you need to increase RPM at high altitude to compensate for thinning air?

Many people here start down from 9000' at 60 miles out and 400 FPM.

You run the carburetor hear from cruise all the way to landing? In clear air as well?

Sell 49% of it to someone. We have a 2/3rd 1/3rd deal ourselves. Fixed costs split 50%

Once you get into twins and especially pressurized twin Cessnas you start getting into 20K annuals, 12K insurance, recurrent training yearly for each pilot, and 35K per wing for engine overhauls. Then 33-35 gallons per hour. Just be aware you can spend a hundred grand on an airplane in one year, and be prepared for that. EDIT: I dont think a Baron or Seneca is in that category, but it still going to be frightfully more expensive than a Mooney.

Would you actually gain fuel capacity?

Thats even funnier than naming her Beech.