jetdriven

I don’t think the Lycoming or the continentals move up.

I believe George Perry has some Hi-Rez photos of his plane that he posted on here in flight. It’s exactly as it does on the ground. If it’s low sitting in the chocks, it’s low in cruise.

The reviews of that switch says they are easy to turn off. I’ve noticed this too. Plus they feel cheap and you need to cut a hole to mount this. Not a fan.

The WX500 was discontinued a couple of years ago so they can sell more WX 1000. And then L3 sold the ownership rights to that to Extant down in Florida who charges about 4000 or $5000 to repair them now. And they used to be about 7000 new and now they're about 5000 used, with the caveat that in any given time you're gonna pay that to get it repaired.

No IA can declare an airplane not airworthy. They can perform the annual inspection and give a discrepancy list to the owner. If you’re concerned about the plane being abandoned, take a big enough escrow deposit to cover that risk.

The garmin EIS will have low fuel alerting that you can set. Ours is set for five or I think 7 gallons per side is Amber and then 1 gallon is red.

It’s epoxy, but not all epoxy is the same. We use MGS . Structural Aircraft epoxy. That’s what specified in the Cirrus repair manual, for example. Hardware store epoxy is about 10% as strong as this stuff and the boat resin fiberglass Polyester MEKP cured stuff from the hardware store is about one percent as strong as this. You might as well use some old bedsheets and some fish, glue and save your customer some money on materials because the outcome is going to be the same. Added Weight and nothing else. but if you use MGS and real structural aircraft, fiberglass or carbon fiber, you can make it pretty good repair. I’ll see so many poor repairs on airplanes that come in here with Brown hardware store fiberglass, chop strand mat and resin.

locking bat toggle. Mouser has them.

We’ve done a good bit of composite work, it’s just it takes literally forever and we have a ton of hours in it and it usually is not worth it. But if you gonna have to pay $18,000 to get another one, there may be something there.

It depends, but if you take a very critical look at it when you first get the plane, and it’s hangared and it never gets rained on and you have the SB 208 compliant insulation that doesn’t touch any of the tubes you’re probably good for a quite a long time, a few years anyways. If the plane lives outside, I would make sure absolutely that all of the windows seals and the pilot storm windows seal are 100% watertight. I mean pressure washer, water, tight. And even then I would look at the steel fuselage tubes every couple or three years.

It’s not just the electric motor, it’s also the ball screw and also the gears and bearings inside of that thing. You could also update it to a Vickers actuator. We have a 75F model with that thing I think it was installed from the factory that way.

im also going through this ovation interior refit. Who stitched your headrest logos? Those looks boss. Also, get some 2022 Bronco leather headrests, those tilt and adjust. Real nice. ebay, 200$ for a pair. Drops in

There is no upgrade path by Mooney to upgrade to a newer G1000 and if you’re talking about ripping it Russia fitting in the entire aircraft that’s going to run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars if it’s even possible. The aircraft is built around that it’s actually part of the type certificate. The Cirrus upgrade path with the TXI series displays is 100 grand. And that’s the already certified kit price and it’s been done a bunch of times. If you’ve got to engineer this yourself, I don’t know how it’s gonna go and I’m not sure if anybody’s ever done it before. it’s the same thing with cars. You buy a Hyundai with all the connected stuff that updates, the maps and the software over the air, then they announce that they’re ending support for that because 3G is going away or just because they plane old don’t feel like supporting anymore. And then, the fact that your climate controls all your vehicle settings are all integrated through this technology display when that craps out I guess you can just throw the car away.

Here is the thing with that, though, Garmin has the airframe manufacturer, basically control all aspects of the upgrade path or software updates or any of that stuff. And if the airframer is lazy, or does not want to support older air frames to force you to buy newer ones, or just plain doesn’t want to, there is no upgrade path. We already had the same problem with the legacy G1000 and the upgrade to WAAS. It seemed to be a kind of a limited thing and now they’re not offering it anymore. I do not expect they would offer an upgrade to NXi either.

We do that a lot and it will fire all eight plugs. It starts up even better.

They are not even all that expensive and if you use them for a couple of annuals, they will pay for themselves pretty quickly

the Rami AV100 is a certified 406/121.4 ELT whip antenna its TSO'd. it also fits under the dorsal fin if you bent it a little.

You have to add the Tach2

The reason the screw is leaking because either the sealant over the open end of the nut plate is compromised or fuel is seeping in from the edges of panel to the shank of the screw but either way those are both also polysulfide sealants. The panel is held in with CS3330 and the nutplate I think is sealed with PR1422/CS3204.

it is.

I think the newest thing here is they run the 80 grit hone through the cylinder and then a 400 grit hone, both the bottle brush style. . And then plain iron rings, the kind used for chrome cylinders. But probably the valve guides are worn out at this point as well so you probably want to go ahead and have those looked at my guy. Tim is a wizard with cylinders. We took the parrot wizard’s plane from a QT every three hours to a QT every 25 probably.

Use the right stuff. PR-1422

I think this is going to be like the ovation interior in my M20J, one and done.. Typically you know you're just about finished when you're correcting mistakes made by the factory.

That's really astounding, I was at the paint shop, trying to figure out the radius for the windows, I went back to the shop in Texas I was working at, and we fished out a later model J that had the radius windows, and then I tried to find something that was the right size and it was a Folgers coffee can fit it perfectly. I guess now I know why. I called the paint shop back and said use a Folgers coffee can, tape around that.

What was your oil temperature? The usual 192?