kortopates

Yes, It’s just available on the apple IOS version. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both are fixable, your max rpm setting and your tach. That's what you want to do. Of course I knew you were joking about exceeding redline Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck, most bottles are on a 5 yr re-test cycle. Older composites and some seamless steel do require every 3 yrs.

I understand how it helps avoid accidental unlatching, but have you considered what will happen in an off field landing where you might end upside down hanging from your belt unable to unlatch it? Add in the chance of fire and the need to get out asap.

Where do you see that? See page 3-13, it shows 2.1 nm per 1000' using that: (2.1nm * 6076 ft/nm)/1000 ft= 12.75 : 1

depends what "checking the regulator" includes - at that much it sounds like it could be IRAN or OH of the regulator since those are expensive but I forget how expensive. If that wasn't a quote for the regulator it time to get the breakdown.

Do tell what ratio you calculated? Did you enable winds and terrain too? (the latter shouldn't matter over JFK though, but winds would). But it appears yours is showing 5 nm when we would expect to see (6 * 2.1) * 0.8= 10nm (using your 20% decrease) no wind. But it looks like it is showing 8-9nm going 180 degrees off your tail and max range about 200 degree bearing off your nose - so I assume you do have winds enabled but still looks short at max range. So what did you use for a number?

Unless you have an issue with your regulator, I recommend leaving it alone till the bottle needs replacing. The regulators, actually a 2 stage altitude compensating Scott regulator are expensive and should last the life of the bottle. What Jerry says above, at $30, to hydro your bottle, seems to be the universal price for the facilities that specialize in this, but that does not include delivery to and from your plane. Expect your maintenance provider to charge something like 0.5 hr to remove the bottle and about an hour to re-install and re-rig it. There is an inexpensive o-ring required to re-attach to the high pressure line and there is the possibility of requiring to replace the the o-ring for the bottle which is over a hundred $.

I'd bet you'd have more success getting a rebate or discount based on committing to a block of hours.

It is a loose or bad connection. Unlikely that the sensor would be bad or damaged in the installation. These wires aren't usually prone to interference (like the thermo couple sensors) from ignition leads or high current, but you wouldn't want them bundled with them for any length either. The shop will be find it and fix it for you.

I recall there actually was a legitimate flying business for "Mile High" flights out of the Mile High city of Denver. For a fee, they took you and your ah, friend, mistress, partner or whomever - that's the only thing they didn't supply, up for a flight in something like a Saratoga fitted with a bed and privacy curtains in the back for a romantic flight and it included a bottle of Champagne. I couldn't help wonder about some of the logistics, like did you need Oxygen at altitude after the Champagne? Did they do a 0 G maneuver right on cue? Did you get a personal photo DVD afterwards to remember the experience? Okay - back to reality, but it really was a legitimate business! And there is someone still doing it today in Cincinnati: http://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/airline-offers-mile-high-club-flights Bummer, it was all just kinda humorous, but after Byron's post the guy doesn't sound like a gentlemen at all! But my two favorites from above:

Hah, hah I was a kid back then (still am for that matter) but you probably meant the 50's because that was before my time. I was more apart of the Star Trek generation - "Beam me up Scotty". My 252/Encore does almost that too far away destinations, along with its step! You know, I think I even remember that video from when you first posted it about your then new avionics. I didn't see it till the second viewing though. Nice take off though.

Fair enough, but its not very visible. Too funny, but as much as I like Al's design, thank goodness for evolution and step wise refinement! Ah, but I love my vintage brethren birds. But Eric has the right idea. Fair enough guys, but even up and close I don't think you could barely tell the step exist on my bird, a dirty belly would be much uglier But @bonal you might value a step more if you ever try to disembark at a ski area with icy pavement or any frozen destination.

Seems like the Vintage folks are very attached to their retractable steps I would never understand why not just install a fixed step with the fairing that makes it a non-issue wrt to drag and be done with it? i.e. like the rest of the modern fleet? Of course I am assuming a fixed step can be installed in the vintage birds like the modern Mooney's but I don't know specifics and never see that option discussed and curious why not. Incidentally, although I am 100% glass, I kept my vacuum pump for my speed brakes as well. The pump weighs next to nothing so it didn't bother me at all, but I was very happy to pull the electric standby pump out of the back which did add up to some significant weight.

Was it actually leaking or seeping during the annual or had stains marks? That's the only way anyone would know.

They don't ask you for a complete list of appliances. For example, they know Mooney installed a Bendix ignition switch. They have specific questions they'll ask for your Mooney. In mine the factory gave a choice in vendors for some instruments like the altimeter, ELT etc so they wanted to know which models of these were installed and I recall similar on seat belts. But it was far from me having to list every appliance that Mooney installed - they have that mostly figured out. My effort was less than a couple hours. You have to tell them about your mod's but you will still get ADs for items that don't apply, perhaps like an airfilter (or any common appliance that could be installed on your bird), that you can resolve as not applicable etc. But you still want those to show they're not applicable rather than ignored. They may not be perfect, but there is way too much room for missing things relying on doing a FAA web site search. If it was as easy or even as reliable as this thread suggest, IA's would not be paying for a service to do it for them but since they are signing off on their research as being complete they want to ensure its 99% complete (and truthfully, they can share if not delegate the liability with the service provider i.e. its good insurance).

I’d bet if you pulled the whole gear box out you’d be able to find the problem. Maybe a good time to do Mooney SB M20-88A and eliminate chance of the AP causing the trim to get stuck at the stops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The time to provide the info to ADlog is greatly exaggerated, and the time to research them on the FAA site on your own is greatly underestimated. Took me an hour or two to provide my info and as a mechanic I know it is way to easy to overlook appliance AD’s. Just Can’t imagine an owner finding the AD for Bendix ignition switches on their own. After the first year, $38 renewal for AD searches at annual is a bargain for me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These chains even after 35+ years still are in pristine condition. They don’t get the stress or wear like a bicycle does and using the electric trim the chain isn’t even on tension - it’s just turning the trim wheel around. Slack or any improper tension should be easily explained by the position or height of the gear box determined by tensioning bolts in the cockpit. Should not be a mystery nor necessarily a sign of worn spring or sprocket which is very doubtful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, it’s a continental specific and would require pulling the alternator to inspect - which is not easy on a TSIO-360. Zero relevance to a Lycoming. Crazy thing is there is no excuse for it, but it happens, I assume because someone was too much in a hurry to finish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I prefer the Tanis dual probe and heater element. Both work best in the cylinder well. I guess if someone was doing that soon they could install the dual probe heater element now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s odd you found only 3/32 movement adjusting the tensioner bolts on top in the cabin. I had much more but I didn’t measure it. I simply raised the tensioner bolts too loosen the chain to make it easier to separate the master link on the chain and then reinstall the master link on the chain. Then turned the tensioner bolts down to raise the assembly and tighten the chain. The tensioner bolts seemed like they had more like 1/2” movement. Same mid body airframe too but a K model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a heads up but since you have the legacy old style connectors and need to replace the old harness connector with a new Deutch 2 pin connector to connect to the new probe with Deutch connector - make sure either your A&P has a crimp tool for these or you buy the economical one from Tanis. its impossible to make a circular (or 3 point crimp) on these that will hold right without the right crimp tools. An avionics tech should have the required crimp tool but not likely a A&P that hasn't been using Deutch connectors yet - although they are getting popular with avionics installers for good reason.

Just an FYI, your Mooney IPC only covers the parts provided by Mooney, not the engine parts provided by Lycoming or other PMA provides. I expect @N201MKTurbo nailed it for you above.

You need a new Tanis CHT heater element since the leads have broken off. I can see the Tanis power harness bundled in the lower right of picture #2. You can order one from Tanis. Email the above pictures to Tanis if your A&P is unfamiliar or you just want to be sure asap so you can get a replacement ordered soonest. You could also have your A&P pull it out and snap a third pic of the heater element too.