N601RX

Remove the inspection panel next the jack point and see. I remember that there is a heavy piece of aluminum angle attached to the spar. The jack point screws into the horizontal leg of this angle. I don't remember if the threads are directly into the aluminum or if it uses a thread insert. I think I remember a thread insert.

If I remember correctly mine have a thread insert installed in the aluminum. I'm not sure if it came from the factory that way or not.

http://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=172401

Rumor is that the 3 will include certified adsb out

Foreflight just announced they will be releasing synthetic vision soon! https://www.foreflight.com/sv/

You can download the Cleveland mant manual from Parker's website. "Torque axle nut using value specified in aircraft manual or the following: 1 Rotate the wheel/tire while tightening axle nut to 150 to 200 inch-pounds (16.9 to 22.6 Nm) to seat the bearing. 2 Back off axle nut to zero torque. 3 Tighten axle nut to 30-40 inch-pounds (3.4 to 4.5 Nm) while rotating wheel/tire. 4 Rotate axle nut (clockwise or counterclockwise) to nearest slot and cotter pin hole, and insert cotter pin. Bend ends of cotter pin around axle nut. Note: Wheel must rotate freely without perceptible play."

Unless the rules have changed again recently they don't restrict the use of certified parts. Up until early 2000's you were just required to oversee the building of any 51% of it. Now they require the 51% to be troken down in severa subcategories. The trick is finding a DAR who will sign the Paperwork. Most have higher standards than a few.

If I remember correctly from earlier post isn't this engine the original engine and never been overhauled other than cylinder work? If so if it were me I would keep a very close eye on it while getting enough time on it to determine the overall condition of the rest of the engine. Otherwise you may be spending money on cylinder work now and find out 6 months later that it needs a complete overhaul. For what its worth we put new cylinders on our old 67 cessna with 2200 tt on the original engine several years ago. Although we sold it a few years ago I still fly it occasionally and at 2600tt on the original engine it still runs fine.

I know of one local plane that started out as a couple of certified planes and is now registered as an amateur built experimental. The wings came from one brand and were shortened, the fuselage was something else and was extended. The engine was a Ford V6 with a radiator mounted in the rear. If I remember correctly it won alternate power a few years ago at SERFI. He was able to convince the DAR that although it contained parts from certified planes he built 51% of it. It is now a Hacoda Hornet!

Jpi pre attaches the db25 connectors on the monitor end of the harness, but does not crimp the ring terminals or other connectors on the engine end of the harness. If they put them on for you it would take a huge hole to get them through the firewall. You can cut whatever length is necessary off the engine end of the harness before crimping the connectors on.

I had a couple of broken oil ring several years ago and was using about 1.5 quarts an hr. What is your oil burn?

Most breakers are considered a standard part and are manufactured to a mill spec instead of a pma or tso.

There is a lycoming service bulletin that deals with the nut working loose and falling apart. I purchased a new one when I overhauled the engine 3 years ago. I remember it being around $150 for the pma equivalent. I either purchased it from aircraft specialties or aero-in-stock. My old one was working when I overhauled the engine if your interested in it I can see if I still have it. SB 518C.pdf SI 1423.pdf

Thermo couples work by producing a small millivolt signal at the junction. This small signal travels up the wire to amplifier/conditioner. The front end of the conditioner is usually very high impedance op amps configured as in instrumentation amplifier. Because the input impedance (usually 50mega ohm range) is so high there is no measurable voltage drop along the wires. Longer wires are more prone to pick up noise.

The best way to clean finewires is to use a dental pick to remove the leadballs and not sandblast them.

Lycoming also has 2 different styles of pushrod tubes for the angle valve engine. The new style is formed from a single piece of aluminum including the ears that the spring plates push against. the older style had the ears welded on and sometimes crack or break off.

I have the A1A engine, H1 governor and Hartzell prop. The prop will cycle slowly at idle. I've saw others post before that they had to be around 1800rpm for the prop to cycle.

The length on thermocouple wires doesn't affect the readings. I rolled up a service loop behind the panel and cut them to length under the cowl.

Matt, Glad to see your enjoying it. How many hrs on it so for?

The PVC handle works great. Just keep it somewhere secure so it doesn't end up tangled up in the pedals.

A true commercial aircraft jack is completely outside the price range that most of us can or will pay for something we only use occasionally. I think most of the commercial jacks start around $3500 per set. Other than the commercial jacks you can buy a set of prebuilt non-commercial jacks for around $700 or build something similar yourself for around $150. Commercial jacks are available in both 3 and 4 leg version, either is fine as long as you have a way to ensure all legs are firmly on the ground. If you are going to leave the plane up on jacks overnight or while you are not there then you need to add some kind of feature that will prevent the jack from leaking down. I built my own a few years ago and have been very happy with them.

I think they will also include a new rear tiedown loop.

From what I have read the A's are very slick and fast.

I cut the jack shaft off just below the cross hole and then made a large diameter deep countersink into the top of the jack shaft. I made the countersink as deep as I could so that when the lasar jack point was placed in it there would be just a small amount of clearance between the top of the jack shaft and the wing skin. I'm pretty sure the jack is going to be too hight to go under the wing if you do it the way the RV guy did his. The RV is also a much lighter plane.

I purchased this used about a year ago. I've used it on a couple of long trips and it seems to work as advertised. Power and headset adaptor cables are included. Will also show voltage and the altitude your transponder is sending out. $225 and will include shipping. Thanks, Mike