N201MKTurbo

I have the Precise Flight demand regulator and conserving cannulas. I don't have any data, but I would say the demand regulator uses about half as much as the cannulas. I don't think I would spend the money for one. I got the one I have on EBAY for $20. It was an estate sale and it was listed under medical devices. I just looked it up, the precise flow is $649. With the precise flow a 22cf bottle will last about 20 hours. I usually fly 14000 to 16000 if I go high.

I flew an F for 19 years before I bought my J. I would trade the delicate electric actuator for the Johnson bar any day. It was a superior set up!

I have a 115 steel with a few years left on it if you are interested. It doesn't weigh a ton...

I was working on a Jet Provost a few weeks ago. Its engine has a couple of pre oiler ports. If the engine hasn't been run in two weeks, you have to open the ports and give it a few squirts with an oil can before you start it. They may have something there.

Maybe I'm just lucky. Maybe it is because I live in Arizona. Up until the last two years, I flew the plane almost daily. Maybe that's it. It would be interesting to survey engine shops from different parts of the country and see if there is a regional difference.

When I opened up the engine on my first Mooney in 1984, it had seriously pitted and dished lifters. The cam lobes were seriously warn. That airplane was a hanger queen when I bought it. It was 20 years old and had less then 1000 hours on it. I had the cam and lifters re-ground. (I was 27 years old and strapped for cash). The cam and some of the lifters were from unknown sources (yellow tagged). I have never seen the slightest hint of cam wear or corrosion sense then. I think it takes some serious disuse to cause the type of problems that I saw on that engine.

It is brass lock wire that you can break with your bare hands if you are mad enough.

The center of the crank (shaft) and the engagement knob.

I thought of that, but I didn't have any. Besides, I didn't want it to break. My Ex-partner would have found a way to break it with his knee. Either way removing the lock wire isn't hard. Much easier then turning the crank the 1000 turns or so that it takes to lower the gear!

I now put a piece of lock wire with loops twisted in the ends holding the lever in the disengaged position. It is like a beefy twist tie. If I need to use the emergency extension I remove the lock wire and then engage the crank.

The oil looks better then the blue stuff....

It seems that they only have 24v batteries. How much are they? $$

Two years ago I designed and manufactured a 100 bay Lithium polymer battery charger for our customer. The batteries we were using were about 3x1x1/2 inches and had the same energy capacity as 8 Duracell alkaline D cells. They have an amazing energy density, but they are finicky. You can kill them by over discharging them, you can kill them or set them on fire by overcharging them. If you had a charging system specifically designed for the lithium battery it would be great. It would need to disconnect the battery if the cell voltage got too low. And it drops rapidly at end of discharge. There would need to be electronics and safety features built into the battery to make it a drop in replacement. My RG battery works great, I think I will stick with it.

Me too. As long as the ice melts at 0C I'm happy.

This CFI is obviously of low character and intelligence. Why waste so many keystrokes on him?

I've taken off from telluride at gross weight in my M20F a few times. That airport is over 9000 feet elevation. It will be just fine, just be sure to watch your airspeed as usual and accept the fact that it is not going to climb as fast as you are used to.

Your gage shows each small increment as 25C which is 45F. We use 50F because it is two tick marks on the gage, nothing else magical about it. So if you want to be 50F ROP or LOP just go a needles width more then one tick mark on the gage.

So here is something to try on your step. I had an M20F for 19 years, but it never had a step. So I never tried this. My dad was a great carpenter. He told me to use paraffin wax to lube and protect my tools. Just rub a block of wax on the metal parts, work them together a bit then rub the excess off with a rag. It makes things slide real easy, lasts a long time and keeps it from rusting.

I have the tool and it is still a major PITA. THIS METHOD IS BRILLANT! I will never use the tool again....

You had to adjust the timing if you took the mag off. I would suggest at least checking the internal timing every time you have the mag off. It only takes a few minuets. Adjusting it is another story, depending how picky you are.

We fly Mooney's because we are cheap! If we had that kind of money to throw around we would fly a Beech! (I'm going to rot in hell for that one)

The problem I've found with reground cams and lifters is the valve lash. You cannot use the same pushrods you had before. The clearance at the rocker arm needs to be between 0.020 and 0.080 with dry lifters. If it is outside that range the lifters won't work right. One of two things will happen and both are bad. If they are too tight the valves won't close and will burn. If it is too loose the lifter will come off the cam and then crash back down. This will force the lifter through the oil film and you will get a moment of metal to metal contact. This is what causes spalling.

Actually it is a tiny simple looking part. But kind of complex. The only war to make it would be with a broach or wire EDM.. I bought one about five years ago it took about a month to find it and it cost $500.00. I was told it was the last one on the planet. Luckily I work at a place with a wonderful machine shop. If I was to give the foreman the damaged part, sometime that day he would give me a new part. Don't ask me to play that card. I already owe him too much.

Chack your P-Leads with an ohm meter. They should not be grounded when the switch is on both. Are you sure you didn't install the mags on the wrong stroke? Pull all the top plugs, hook up the ignition leads and lay them on top of the cylinders. Have someone crank the engine and see if they spark. You should only see spark on the two that are hooked to the shower of sparks. If you have someone flip the prop with the switch on both you will probably see spark on all four.

I usually see about 16.5. I burned up my turbo once leaning in the climb, so I don't do it any more. Cost $2200.00