N201MKTurbo

Remove the screws holding the plastic knobs on the levers and remove the knobs. There are a number of small sheet metal screws around the plastic quadrant, remove the screws and remove the plastic piece. Don't overtighten the screws when putting them back in.

Tip of the day, before installing the screws in the inspection panels, put them in cup and spray them with your favorate lube, shake them around a bit to coat them with lube. Thay will not corrode or get stuck for years to come.

You can get new seals and fluid from Aircraft spruce for about $20 bucks. It is not legal for anyone except an instrument shop to replace the seals. Let your conscience be your guide. They are easy to change, just be sure to get all the air out of the compass.

You don't get the pucker factor like you do in real ice, rain, turbulence and dark, but it is a great way to perfect your procedures. If you can fly the computer well you will have no problem in the plane. Not to mention the fuel you will save.

Is the gauge slow to react or does it just stick in one position until you tap it? If it is just slow there is an orifice in the fitting on the back of the gauge that can get dirty. Either way any instrument shop can fix it. Just be very careful removing the fittings from the back of the instrument, it is easy to damage the instrument if you are not careful.

I always liked my Scott OAT. When flying in ice ): the ice would always start to melt as soon as the needle got 1/2 needle width off of zero. I have a 201 now with a davtron that works fine, but I don't trust it like the old Scott.

The yellow stuff is zinc chromate and toluene, the green stuff is zinc chromate, carbon black and toluene. The green just has more body to it. The zinc chromate forms an electrical anode with the aluminum and any corrosive action will corrode the zinc in the paint before it attacks the aluminum. Tempo used to make the best paint, but they stopped making it about a year ago. The stuff is quite toxic - most things that work real well seem to be toxic. The zinc chromate paint will dry in about two minutes. The zinc phosphate paint takes about two days.

I had my tanks re-sealed by Wilmar a couple of years ago. They did a terrible job – they didn’t even finish one side ( I have pictures if anybody wants to see). They charged me $2000.00 more than estimated and the tank they didn’t finish leaks worse than before It was resealed. Not to mention they ruined the paint on the bottom of both wings, the landing gear and the wheel wells. I never called them for corrective action because it is such a hassle to take the plane to the other side of the country to get it done. It took me about 20 Hrs to repair the paint damage. And I have spent another 20 Hours doing repairs to the tanks along with about $200.00 worth of materials.

Even if the gyro is solid, the electrical pickup could be intermittent.

I applied, but havn't heard anything.

It can be a lot of things, you need to do some more troubleshooting. I once had a condenser wire that was resting against the inside case and eventually wore through the the insulation and shorted out the mag. cost about $0.25 worth of parts to repair.

I think Lake Aero Styling can overhaul them.

I flew over 3000 hours in a Mooney out of the Denver area. You will be fine using full rich for takeoff. After you reduce to climb power then you can lean. If your engine is running rough at full rich then just lean it until it runs smooth. Flying into COS from the east is easy, you will land before you have to deal with any mountains.

Read this article: http://www.sacskyranch.com/eng203.htm

I've had a plane with the M20 Turbo for 7 years and I think it is a better plane then a 231. It has been fairly trouble free. I had to get the pressure controller and turbo overhauled, the turbo mount has cracked a couple of times, an exhaust pipe cracked, had to replace the seal in the scavenger pump, the exhaust heat shields have broken a couple of times.... Well maybe not that trouble free, but not much more then any other turbo installation. I have had the plane up to FL220. The critical altitude is supposed to be FL190, but mine is FL210, above that the manifold pressure is a bit unstable. I have seen ground speeds as high as 260 KTS flying up high. It doesn't happen often but is cool when it does!

Just be careful out there. If you fly enough you are bound to do something stupid eventually. For me it was leaning the mixture while on a long taxi and then getting distracted and forgetting to enrich the mixture for takeoff. After taking off scanning for traffic and dealing with the airport environment, I scanned the engine gages and noticed the CHT pegged! The plane made it home burning about 1 QT/hr. It is kind of embarrassing to stop for fuel and ask the line man to add 4 QTs of oil. All four pistons had elongated the piston pin hole by about .005 and all the ring lands were deformed. I had softened all four pistons. It cost about $2000 to fix it. The point is - don't be to aggressive leaning in a climb.

I have a brand new Hartzel spinner for a 201 cowl if anyone is interested.

My engine uses no oil. I rerely add a QT between 50 hr oil changes, yet it leaks enough to make the engine, gear doors and belly an awful mess. Except in extream leakage situations you cannot equate consumption with messiness. I was told in engine school that the purpose of oil in an engine is to cool, clean and lubricate the engine. After years of airplane ownership and maintenance I have determined that the purpose of oil in an engine is to get out by any means possible! I was told once by an old pilot that airplanes are like dogs.... they like to mark their territory.

When I do the internal tining on my dual mag it usually takes me an hour or so to get them even. If you just do it by the book with the factory holding clamp it is hard to get them dead even. I usually rotate the mag by hand and make fine adjustments of the points until both lights come on at exactly the same time. baring any plug/ harness problem this usually gets the mag drop difference to zero. Do you have a misfile on any plugs?

The PTT goes from the pilot and copilot jacks to the audio panel. The audio panel will key the individual radios according to the front panel switch settings. With this said removing the audio panel will leave the radio's PTT lines open so they will not key. The first thing that I would do is remove all microphones from the front two jacks and see if the problem goes away. If it does then you have a bad PTT in one of your mikes. Beyond that you need to get the pinout of the audio panel (installation instructions) and check that the PTT inputs are working OK. This can be done by putting an ohm meter between the individual PTT inputs for the pilot and copilot, activating the PTT switch and checking that the PTT lines go from open to grounded when the switches are pushed. If they are correct then the audio panel is broken.

I have worn a Breitling Aerospace for the last 14 years. I don't think that I've ever used it for flying except for getting to the airport on time. I am hard on watches, this one has been back to the factory twice for overhaul. One word of caution for all the Breitling people out there; don't wear the watch while using an orbital polisher, it will shake all the glowey stuff out of the hands and cost $300.00 to get it fixed.

I have found that the stall behavior of a Mooney is a good indicator of how well the airplane is rigged. On the first BFR in my current plane, which I had only owned for one week at the time, I did a power on stall (at night) and the plane almost snap rolled. I told my buddy (the CFII) that we were done doing stalls. I spent the next few weeks tweaking the rigging until I was happy with it. I gained 15 knots and the plane stalled straight ahead. I knew the plane needed to be re-rigged when I bought it, but didn't expect it to have such big impact on the stall behavior.

First, the factory CHT is usually on cylinder 3. I chased a cylinder misfire problem for way to long one day until I discovered that the probes were on the wrong cylinder. You can verify that they are correct by removing them one at a time and heating them up with a cigarette lighter and verifying that the right one is increasing on the display.

If you don't care about the plastic bag with the Mooney part number they are $17.00 http://www.mcmaster.com/#eyebolts-and-eye-nuts/=7rgg91

These gauges will show a max indication when the probe is open not shorted. With my old M20F it was usually the connector on the probe. You can check the wireing by disconnecting the connector and shorting the two pins together. The meter should indicate zero, if it does not then there is a problem elsware in the wireing. If it does then disassemble the connector and squeeze the female pins to increase the spring pressure, or spend $50 for a new connector and an hour of labor to change it.