N201MKTurbo
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Everything posted by N201MKTurbo
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Nose Gear Door Linkage Replacement
N201MKTurbo replied to Samir13k's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
At least every decade. Sadly that’s not always the case. It seems like every Mooney I lube for the first time, I find a rod end or bearing that hasn’t been lubed since it left the factory. -
Should be. Doesn’t mean it was.
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I had an old gray beard pilot tell me how to break vertigo. It sounded silly until one night I got the spins. I tried his method and it is solid. It completely cured it. When you get the spins, close your eyes, tilt your head back as far as possible, then whack yourself as hard as you can in your forehead then tilt your head down and open your eyes looking at your AI. Remember this. You will need it some day and you will thank the old guy.
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It always amuses me when I open a tank and see that nut plate slathered with sealant. The only leak point is through the rivets. Even sealing the shop heads is worthless. You need to seal the bottom surface and the rivets. Once the tank is opened up, it only takes a few minutes to drill out the rivets, clean up the nut plate and buck the rivets back in. The bottom surface needs to be sealed and the rivets need to be bucked wet with sealent.
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I once flew from the Aurora CO (RIP) airport to Centennial airport in reported 3 miles of vis. If I haven’t been super familiar with the ground references, it would have been impossible. I called the tower over Parker Road on a 5 mile right base to 28 with information XX. The tower said “OK, I can’t see you, cleared 28. Contact ground after landing.” I couldn’t see the runway until I crossed the fence. I was pretty close.
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You forgot the ram air cable.
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When I said above that it would take longer if you tried to short cut the jab, that meant not removing the lower cowl.
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I ended up leaving the duct attached to the cowl and removing the bolts from the servo. They are easier to get to. There are only 4 of them and they are less traumatic on the boot.
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Are they using screws and nuts on that one? It looks kind of long to rivet.
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I owned an M20F for 20 years. I could R&R the starter in about 4 hours. But I had the sequence down cold. If I wasn’t very familiar with the E F Mooneys, I can see it taking that long to figure it out, especially if you tried to short cut it.
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Take yours apart, clean the contacts and put it back together again. Don't mess with the bumps on the bottom just clean them with solvent. Use fine sand paper on the U shaped pieces to smooth out any pitting, then polish them till shiny. Reassemble with DC4.
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They approve those all the time. You just need an A&P to sign off that it is safe to fly.
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Contact the nearest EAA chapter and tell them what you have.
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Make sure you get your engine back. Those parts have value to the experimental folks.
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You said you had a bad camshaft. The report says you have a bad crankshaft. Big difference. The case repair should be about $2000. A lot cheaper than a new case.
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What’s wrong with your case? Who said they cannot overhaul it? Did they send your cam out for regrind and it failed the regrind?
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I think you are over thinking it. Raise one side with your hand till it is aligned with the stab. Then look at the other one and if it is high or low, adjust it till they come up even.
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I think they just want you to even them up. If they are not even, they will give you a rolling tendency.
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It has been a long time since I took one apart. I recall they had a threaded rod with a Lot of threads left. They may not all be the same.
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The nuts on the bungees have very little to do with the control forces, but a little bit. They can change the spring rate, a little bit. if you totally jack them up, it won’t kill you, and you may never know the difference. Your plane would probably not fly as nice as it could.
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Oxygen bottle replacement
N201MKTurbo replied to PprophetBirdman's topic in Modern Mooney Discussion
I have 115 cf brackets if you need some. -
I’ve never heard of that stuff. I looked it up. It should be fine.
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That will not work, you need to lube the entire length of the cable. If you put oil on the outside of the cable housing it will work its way into the coils and lube the wire. The places that are the hardest to get to are the most likely places that it is stuck.
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The elevator bungees could have been lubed with all kinds of things over the years. They attract dirt which can get caked in there. It might be good to remove them, take them apart and give them a good cleaning and painting. Just measure the nut positions and duplicate on reassembly.
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I would check the point gaps. it is tedious to get it correct. I usually readjust them after I send it out for a 500 hour because nobody does it right. If it is wrong the pulse width can be very short. this might be filtered out if the tach has some glitch suppression filtering.
