N201MKTurbo

The company I used to work for would do that kind of thing. Meaning they would be the intermediary between you and the testing lab. Expect to pay about $5000 for that service. Maybe less.

It is used as an air filter.

When I was a kid I spent a year maintaining the radio system for Maricopa County. Mostly for the sheriff's department. I had a cop ID and carried a cop radio. About half the time I drove a county truck home. I was in every sheriff facility in the county. 95% of the deputies were the most decent hard working people you would ever want to meet. the other 5% OMG. I was afraid to be around them. That was in 1978. that was a long time ago. I have no idea what goes on there now....

I remember when those were the coolest thing ever. Then there was LORAN, then there was GPS.

The link above the chart.

Here is the time current chart for an ETA 110-P10 breaker: https://www.relayspec.com/specs/053/D_110_111_e_030305.pdf

If you connect the breaker to your power supply and set the current limit to the rated current of the breaker, it should not trip. The amount of current it takes to trip it is time dependant. to get it to trip you will probably need to go 20-30% over the rated current. These breakers have a bimetallic disk that you need to heat up. It can take a while if you are just a little over the rated current.

There is a valve behind the panel that the tubing from the button goes to. You can trace it from the back of the yoke shaft. You can test the button by removing that tube and sucking on it. There should be no airflow through the tube until you push the button then there should be airflow. You can test the valve by disconnecting the tube and the PC should be INOP. It's possible they bypassed the disconnect valve when they connected the new turn coordinator.

While silanes will bond to many things, I don't think it will bond to all the stuff we are trying to protect. I think these products have a polymer glue that glues them to most of these surfaces. The glue bond is not as permanent as the chemical bond where the silanes become part of the surface. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silanization At work we use the last paragraph under glassware.

BTW, at the last IA symposium, I specifically asked the FAA inspector about the legality of using the Gates Belt as opposed to the Lycoming belt. He said according to the latest interperation of the regs, it was legal to use the Gates belt. So you don't need the $125 belt, you can use the $20 belt. They are both the same BTW, You are paying Lycoming $105 to put a stamp on it.

The belts don't really stretch. The check is mostly to see if something has come loose. Every time mine has gotten loose, one of the mounting bolts was loose, or worn or something. In your case, I wouldn't be too concerned, but it would be worth pulling the cowl to check things out. I have seen the mounting bolts wear out, the bushings on the alternator mounting ears wear out, the ears on the mount wear out. Just take a look and make sure everything is nice and tight.

I have experts on silanes at work, who have explained it to me too many times. I have seen the results in action. It is cool stuff. I could tell you way more, but I shouldn’t. The bonds are strong, but it won’t bond to everything.

They are roller bearings. they need to be pressed out and new ones pressed in . You will have to remove the whole elevator to change it. It probably will be OK if you clean and lube them real good. I have noticed when you take off a control surface, the bearings are pretty sticky. They only want to move through the small arc they normally move. If you hose them down with lube and solvent till you wash all the crud out of them, they will spin all the way around without issue. It would be good to pull the control surfaces every decade or so and clean and lube the bearings. But nobody is going to do that....

According to my One Wheel app, the fastest I have ever gone is 18 MPH. That is too fast most of the time.

Silanes are interesting chemicals. Rainx was the first commercial product.

Have you heard of self control? My motorcycle will go 170, but I don't drive it that fast.

My, children are well taken care of. Most of my investments aren't going to pay off till I'm dead or too old to enjoy it, so they are getting more than they deserve already.

I have ridden that one. I'm not very good at it, but I have about 5 min of experience. It is like flying a helicopter. After a few hours, you start to get the hang of it.

You can inspect the gear if you take a mag off.

https://alienrides.com/products/begode-mten-mini-electric-unicycle?srsltid=AfmBOopU6VDsWTvKQxMHpQIqNDxDc6-DCT5CNaIyZlJCkbMz42xCenq-

I always had it in easy stop mode. Every time I tried to use it without easy stop, I would not be able to get off of it gracefully. Sometimes I fell. So I just rode it in easy stop. One night I was out playing pool with my son. while I was at the pool hall I decided that it was time to learn how to get off in regular mode. The normal way to get off is to raise your heel or toe of your front foot to turn it off. I was doing OK with it that way. When I got home I went to get off of it before I had to go up a rounded curb (I'm still afraid of those). I lifted my heel and it wouldn't turn off, so I jumped off. When I jumped off, it still didn't turn off. Because the battery is in the back, the back always goes down when you get off. When I got off it went full speed backwards without me on it. It isn't supposed to go at all without weight on the foot pad. It hit the square curb across the street and flew straight up in the air about 15 feet and crashed to the ground. It didn't work after that. I called Future motion and told them what happened. they had me do all kinds of diagnostics and said it was broke. they also said I had a defective foot pad that had been recalled. I told them I was never notified about the recall. They said all owners were notified. They checked my email and said I was not the registered owner. I told them my wife bought it fo me for Christmas. They checked her email and said that was the registered email. I checked her e-mail including all the spam folders and such and there was no emails from Future Motion about the recall. We did find all the emails about the order and the delivery notifications. They then said the notices were all over social media. I told them I don't do social media (except MooneySpace), so I would never get those notifications. So they sent me a new foot pad. I changed it out and now I had a dead One Wheel with a new foot pad. They said I had to send it in. They said the shipping both ways would be $80 and the repair charge would be $80. So I sent it in. About a week later they called and said it would be $850 to fix my wheel! I said your manufacturing defect that you were well aware of cause the damage. They said it was out of warranty And they were not responsible for the damage. I told them to send it back and I would try to fix it. When I got it back, I took it all apart and the battery module was all busted up from the crash. There was no way to fix it properly without a new battery case. They don't sell battery cases. Actually they didn't sell any parts until recently. I think they had to comply with California's right to repair law. So I bought a new battery module for $650. It now works again, except the serial number has reset to zero, so I cannot register my new parts with them. I haven't called them about the serial number yet. I'm pretty sure they will want me to send it in. I'm just pissed at them. I didn't crash my wheel, it committed suicide because of a known defect and they refused to fix it. And they lied about notifying me about the recall. I don't think they actually sent out any notifications, they just posted it on Facebook. Not to mention I rode it for a year thinking I was a klutz when it just didn't work. I asked why they didn't notify about the recall through their app? They said they couldn't do that, but that was a lie too. They got sued for killing a few people and pushed a notification about a mandatory software change and training video through the app. There are plenty of PEVs out there. My little brother is a fan of the unicycle type. they are a much better value and higher performance. You can get some of those that will go over 70 MPH and go for 50 miles or so. He has one that is about the size of a lunch box that goes as fast as the One Wheel and has a range of 15 miles. You could probably put 8 of those in a Mooney baggage compartment.

Absolutely. When I rebuilt my engine, I took all the gears to the local engine shop for NDT. I noticed they were all marked with a suffix (-84?). I thought it was a date code. The engine shop told me that is a marking Lycoming puts on parts reused in a factory reman. My engine was a factory reman.

I don't think welding that hose clamp would be an effective repair. I think you would be better off buying a cheap spot welder and making a new one.

The factory remans reuse the gears too.

I had a similar heat shield on mine. I tried a bunch of arrangements. They all broke. I finally just glued refractory material to the cowl. The only other thing it was protecting was the intercooler and it doesn’t seem to bother it without the heat shield.