N201MKTurbo

Tri-Flow is good, but anything is better than nothing.

bummer. Missed it by that much.... Mine actually did that once. I was able to straighten it in place. It has been fine ever since.

I would just straighten that one. And keep it lubed so it doesn’t happen again.

I just looked up Ensolite. It doesn't have very high temperature performance. It is only rated for 120C. The original material seems to be fiberglass wrapped in aramid cloth. Which would withstand a much higher temperature. I believe it is there as a heat barrier in case of an engine fire.

The Mooney part is made from two pieces of aluminum sheet metal riveted together. Are you going to make a mould for each piece and then bond them together, or are you planning on making one thick piece of fiberglass? That will be quite a bit heavier if you do that.

I think you would need to remove the engine, everything connected to the firewall and then drill out all the rivets holding the firewall on. Sounds like 80 hours of labor to me.

I had my tanks resealed by Wilmar Air Service in 2006. The quote for the job was $7000 for both sides. When I showed up to pick up the plane they handed me an invoice for $9500. When I asked them why it was more than they quoted, they said it took longer than they thought it would. I said “I thought you guys did these all the time. Don’t you know how long it takes?” Then I said there was nothing in the quote about time and materials. It was a quote for the job. Anyway, it started leaking soon after and I have been fixing it ever since. The warrantee is kind of worthless. If you want a warrantee repair, you have to schedule it a year out and take your plane back to the shop. So the free repair will cost you a couple af AMUs and your airplane will be down for a year. BTW. I don’t blame the current owner of that shop in any way…

It is almost certainly the mag or the switch. I had this happen to my M20F. It was the wire in the retard mag on the retard points. The wire was touching the inside of the points housing and had worn through the insulation and was shorting out the retard breaker. I just flipped the spade log 180 degrees which moved the wire position and it worked fine.

That’s the same bracket I have.

I don’t have that bracket, but if I did, I would turn it over so the cable could pass through the arch in the bracket.

You know they say if you have a watch you know what time it is. If you have two watches, you have no idea what time it is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Segal's_law#:~:text=Segal's law is an adage,having too much conflicting information.

The pictures above look like an engine with Slick mags.

If you were a CB with rivet skills, you could make a doubler and drop a few rivets in.

I always just pull the throttle to idle. You could practice at altitude with the mixture at ICO. Just hope you can actually make a runway and don5 have any hot start issues. I once shut down an engine during multi training. It took us 20 minutes to get it going again.

There is another Mooney owner who is in the same boat. His issue was caused by them not completely cleaning out the stripper. It is blowing bubbles along all the seams and causing leaks. I have been mentoring him on tank repairs. He has gotten quite good at it.

All of the above. After talking to a coworker at the time, the real cause was the technician who did my tanks was going through a bad divorce and hated the world at the time. The coworker currently owns the business. He didn’t at the time, he was only an employee. The new owner of the shop has said he would do a complete reseal, only if I wait 8 months for a slot. So, no real warrantee. Plus I would have to get the plane to the shop and back, so the free repair would be a couple of grand.

You didn’t ask the question “If you had your tanks resealed by one of the names above, how long before they started leaking?” In my case it was 6 months. I have been fixing it ever since. Biggest waste of money in my long aviation life. My M20F was 36 years old when I sold it. It didn’t leak at all.

Maybe you should consider new motor mounts and shimming your engine up properly.

Anybody who listens to somebody on an Internet forum is an idiot……

You could remove the window trim then attach a strap to the airframe or the top of the sidewall so the attachment is hidden under the window trim. Instead of a strap, you could make a sheet metal clip that clips to the top of the sidewall material and hangs down with whatever clip you need.

The pumps are not an issue. Fuel will flush out any water. As far as the servo is concerned, the best thing you can do is go fly the airplane as soon as possible after the water incident. I think there are some pressure sense aeras where the fuel doesn't circulate, so if water got in there it would tend to stay there. On the flip side, the fuel should keep the water from getting in there in the first place. I have a paper RSA service manual at the hangar. I will have to look at it. I've never tried it, but it should work, if you connected the fuel input line to 30 PSI of compressed air, and set the servo to full throttle and rich mixture, it should blow any fuel and water out of the servo. If you didn't want to blow it into your cylinders, unhook the hose going to your spider and catch what comes out.

It can. I’ve seen meter movements that had tape around the windings. The adhesive on the tape failed and the tape lifted and jammed the movement. if you can get the movement out of the plane, rocking it back and forth in your hand will usually move the needle. You can try to manually move it with a toothpick. I use a toothpick because there is less chance of chipping the paint off of the needle or the face.

If you just use your ohmmeter on a low range, it should make the meter move.

I don’t think anything is grounded in the ammeter circuit. It is just a floating voltmeter across the shunt.

Getting that piece of angle at the end at the correct angle is very important. Just taking to a welder is probably a bad idea. You need to find some way to jig it. At the very least, just tack it on, take it to the plane and bend it till it is right and then have the welder finish the weld.