bradp

Re Slick magneto coil. Ugh. I IRAN'd both mags at 500 hrs and had spent way too much time troubleshooting why all of a sudden I couldn't hot start for the life of me and cold stars were significantly more difficult. Shop that did the work (a not very well known MSC in the region btw) kind of shrugged their shoulders and said it is what it is. Sent mags back for re inspection and the benched fine twice, and local A&p and I troubleshot air an fuel systems will all okay. We found that the left impulse coupled mag never made a good spark across air gap. It was always weak (like 1/4 inch instead of 3/8) inch. Got a replacement mag on there and back to usual strong starts again. I should have probably just put a set of bendix mags on there it retrospect, but at least I have a set of working mags. I called Dorn at Henry Weber and he was of course immensely helpful as was the local a&p where my plane was kind of stuck as I no longer had confidence In the engine with this starting problem. Anyway, I brought the J to annual at Henry Weber this week and if anything I have less anxiety knowing that knowledgeable folks are working on it. Dorn also had awesome flying and maintenance adventure stories and I could probably listen to him for hours. Lessons are your perfectly well working equipment can come back in a messed up state after IRAN and there is a difference among folks that know and care about Mooneys and versus those who just put the logo up on the hangar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My milk run to visit my long distance wife took me through NE/ NY Bravo airspace on IFR trips for a couple of years. I have a GNS 430 and the constant reroute and reclearances would have been pretty painful save having the iPad and foreflight. The show bends only toggle on the foreflight nav log is a real time saver for entering waypoints into the GNS, or alternatively to show all waypoints to easily identify potential exit and entry points along the airway for the "join v1234" instructions. So for me GTN doesn't add too much in terms of workload reduction and I'm not sold on the use of touchscreen on the panel in turbulence. If you are using paper in the cockpit, I can see how these features might be very useful... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am also in the partial flaps camp in the J for the reasons stated with regard to rudder authority. The other thing that I like about having partial (in my plane takeoff flaps) is that there is a higher likelihood of a rejected landing / go around in a high crosswind or gust situation. Having to make significant trim and flap adjustments is one less thing I will need to deal with when its time to get out of dodge. Brad Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

www.pilotedge.net Keith Smith - who runs this site - is a good guy and an experienced pilot. Like VATSIM in that it simulates real time ATC with actual humans but much more professional. It's being used by hobbyists, training programs and professionals alike to integrate flying "in the system". Good stuff. . http://www.flyingmag.com/blogs/fly-wire/real-atc-pc-pilots Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all Prop seal is leaking so the prop is of right now. My highly recommend MSC (2nd annual at Virginia Aviation) very honestly told me that they are not the best shop for a dynamic balance. Any recommendations for a good place for a dynamic balance in the mid Atlantic or northeast? Live in MA/ PA so anywhere along that route would be ideal. Thanks much and take care Brad Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I am going into three years with 1QH, which does have a gear up in its history. Happened at Kerrville and Dugosh performed all the repairs. Engine was torn down at that time. I had a PPI with Top Gun and keep owing to the reputation of both those shops, I was reassured that I found a good airframe. Feel free to get my details by PM if you'd like to talk more. Brad Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Hi all... The 77J is in for annual and mags are getting overhauled at 540 hrs. Engine model is an A3B6. Per the MSC timing was set at 20degrees, as per the data plate. I'm interested in at least considering setting 25 degrees advance. Per this thread it seems like this might be possible. Was the Lycoming documentation that may allow this just for the b6d to b6 conversion or for b6 in general? Please feel free to post or private message. Thanks for helping. Brad Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Hi all, Looking for a tailpipe hanger assembly clamp (the actually clamp that fits over the tailpipe) for a '77 J. It's referenced as #16 in the parts catalogue figure (link below). It's part number 630120-003. Thanks! -Brad https://docs.google.com/a/bcrpweb.com/file/d/0Bzl7PMswQfWsaHBUOVdwUFV6Mnc/edit

I would also recommend BDR it's close to the metro north new haven line and then you're looking at about a 1:15 ride to mid town. BDR (three wings) have always been good to me, as has volo, the other FBO. Avgas is reasonably priced. Only downside is a municipal landing fee.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an instructor in the New England (specifically Boston) area? It's time for the first BFR in 1QH and would love to learn from a Mooney experienced instructor. Thanks, -Brad

Agree that nothing looks obviously corroded from the picture. However, the small trail of something on the bottom of the lowest part of the floor may indicate something had collected down there. If I'm not mistaken, there should be a drain at the lowest point of the empennage; check that it's not blocked up. May be a good idea to clean the areas and either re-spray some zinc chromate / phosphate or use a dielectric anti-corrosion compound. Not to take the thread too far off topic, but anyone found that corrosion X attracts dirt and tends to pull old zinc chromate off the aluminum? Brad

I had swapped fuel injectors last year a couple of times until I was very happy with the gami "spread". Had dirty stuff in the injectors at this year's annual. So we took them off and sonicated them in cleaning solvent for a few hours and they got much, much cleaner. Unfortunately have to go back to square one and re-measure and will re order the fuel injectors tomorrow. The procedure for figuring out the gami spread is as described above and pretty straight forward. I really like the video idea, and may try it tomorrow. I guess I could just download the data, too. Remember that engine RPM is also linked to fuel flow and, indirectly, mixture, so make sure that RPM is at least in keeping with what you plan to cruise at. Are you getting any engine roughness with 24/2400 configuration? I've found that my engine seems to really like 25/2500 for LOP operations. Running the engine too "fast" can halt your attempts at LOP pretty quickly, and pulling the RPMs back too much seems to shorten my nice buffer zone between appropriate LOP and the onset of engine roughness. Have fun with it... my fuel savings in a single year of flying LOP has already paid for the EDM almost twice over. :-) Brad

Hi all, Working through a newly found gear rigging issue. Urgh. Anyway here's the process I used: 1) Wash 2) Clay bar (wet) to get stuck on dirt off 3) Clear coat safe rubbing compound (Maguiar's); important to apply by hand, don't let dry and wipe off with clean microfiber 4) Clear coat safe polishing compound. Again by hand but lots of rubbing 5) Cleaner wax (Maguiars); with soft foam buffing wheel covered by a microfiber bonnet on my portable hand drill. I went through a battery about every 15 minutes. 6) UV protectant wax (Maguiars NXT); hand polishing I'll see how this holds up but I am hopeful; the zinc dust overspray error literally wiped right off. Take care, Brad

I'm just about to complete my first annual (knock on wood, not signed off yet), with few surprises. So far, battery needed to be replaced, ELT broke during testing and valve cover gaskets need replacing. We're finishing up tomorrow. I've spent every day of the last week putting in some elbow grease doing touch up zinc under the belly, doing some touch up paint work around the fuel caps. Participating in the annual and learning a ton during the last week has been about the most educational aviation experience I've had to date. The shop has been top notch, and the A/Ps have been totally professional, very knowledgeable and fun to hang out with. Probably the most labor intense thing all week... paint restoration. Got all the oxidation out of the 36 year old paint with some astounding results. Only took 4 hours each top side of each wing . Thought I would share some pics with y'all. I get a kick out of the before and after; it's like an infomercial... Take care and happy flying, Brad http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/33980-/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/33982-/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/33979-/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/33981-/

Hi all, Plane is annual right now and the ELT switch, which is of course integrated into the solid state board, broke off during the test. I'm looking for an EBC 102A model 121.5 MHz ELT or similar in-cabin accessible ELT. Board, PM or email is just fine. Thanks and take care, Brad

Pediatrician, Immunologist, and since acquiring N201QH near-perpetual moonlighter

Hi all, I am currently looking for a mechanic to care for a '77 J in the Boston metro area. There is a mechanic outfit on airport. However, I am a bit apprehensive about bringing the plane there at the recommendation of about every based pilot at the airport that I've spoken with. I don't want to make any comment about the local outfit as I have no experience with them whatsoever except that they've been totally helpful with finding me lightbulbs, oil filters, etc on short notice. Seems most of the local pilots had used a different shop on airport until a roof collapsed in a snowstorm and abruptly ended that business. Any recommendations? Either on forum or PM would be appreciated. Thanks much.

Hi All, I want to run my cylinder #3 CHT probe from a JPI 730 as a bayonet instread of a spark plug washer gasket. I understand the best way to do this in order to keep the original indicator operational is to piggyback the JPI and original bayonet using the JPI 5050-A adapter. I called over to JPI today, who said that they stopped making that probe. Does anyone have an extra 5050A that they are willing to sell or know where to get a hold of them. The other option would be to use the boss with a JPI bayonet and use a gasket with the original red line pane guage. The issue is that the original guage uses a single wire resistor type temp probe and that this would in all likelihood require a 337 to keep it legal. Thanks and take care, Brad

I think I saw that plane listed on BT website last week. NDH and "a steal". In all seriousness it is a shame to see that plane in such a condition.

Hi All, After my first post here almost two years ago I am about ready to place an offer on a west coast late 70's M20J. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to go look at this plane in person, but have full copies of the logs, and have chatted with the A&P on a couple of occasions. George Perry and Parker have been kind enough to help me out with looking at (and avoiding) another J, but The owner was kind enough to send me some photos of a couple of key areas I had asked about (namely looking down the empennage, and some photos up each of the gear wells). Things I noticed are that the control actuator tubes are a bit browned and there is some discoloration to the zinc chromate on the floor of the empennage. With regard to the gear wells, there is peeling, and in some spots chipped paint on areas of the main gear. What I wish I had that I don't is a photo straight on looking toward the main spar caps. My questions for the collective wisdom of the group are 1) is there anything that can be seen that would constitute a show stopper / deal breaker? 2) are the areas of chipped paint along gear well rivet seams consistent with where a (now fully stripped and resealed) fuel tank may have previously leaked from? 3) This airplane has no reference to 208A/B having ever been completed in the logbook. It may have original insulation, but has been hangared all of its life and has no history of window leaks. The current A/P (owner's) assures me that he has inspected the tubular frame of this plane (but it ain't on paper, so it don't count). Clearly the tubular frame is something that should be looked at prebuy/annual. The MSC I plan to bring the plane to for prebuy / annual is Top Gun and Mark says that he as a matter of routine looks at the lower parts of tubular frame from the belly inspection panels on his prebuys. How worried should I be about original insulation holding moisture for the last 30 odd years? Photos here: http://mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?action=gallery&userGallery=1437¤tAlbum=759 Thank you all. I apprecaite all your experience and your willingness to share. Brad