HRM

Yay! Back in the air! Many of you know that after my annual over a month ago I found a broken push rod tube and a severely bent rod not only spewing oil but making AL pixie dust in the head. Well, after a fun time replacing the jug with my friendly neighborhood A&P/IA, I took The Mistress up for a few circles around the KBPT Delta outer circle. I just didn't want to deal with Houston approach, so I stayed close to ground zero and gave the engine a nice, smooth run to set the rings. Ahhhhh...almost as good as ____, so good to be back in the air.

Mine has a very complicated spiral spring that I once foolishly played with. I will never do that again.

You are welcome guys. Thread successfully thrown south...

Jeez-lou-eez! That 5.6 hours violates my bladder's personal minimum, and I am not talking fuel .

Those are fin stabilizers. They are used to reduce vibration.

Mine was 10/9/65, so not 'line' sisters .

What's your S/N Bob. I think your E and The Mistress (848) were line sisters.

Boyd Maddox does annuals (and anything else) on Mooneys at KAXH--145 NM.

Dog! Is it still in Sugarland? How do you know where it will be next? I want to play!

Actually, this is related to global warming. 6 AM in Beaumont, TX: Hard to see in the pic, but the azaleas flanking the door have white blossoms on them!

Well, I am getting ready to replace the seals on my doghouse and there are a slew of pop rivets that need to come out. In the past I have drilled them and sometimes clipped them off, but time has passed and modern technology has revealed a number of pop rivet removal tools that I am wondering if they are any good. Any PIREPS on getting the rivets out cleanly? The old seal is literally decomposing, so there should be a lot of play for most of them; i.e., easy to clip off. Drilling typically works best when they're tight, but I wondered if these tools have some sort of magic to them that makes it quick and easy.

➀ Exactly! But overall high EGTs can be ignored if CHTs are in line (unless, of course, they are all off the chart). ➁ Good luck with that.

Well said. It sounds oxymoronic, but as long as they are in concert and CHT's are good, who cares about EGT. Like one of your kids, when one strays from the pack it is time to reel it in.

Patience grasshopper, patience. As we approach the deadline, the less expensive solutions will get approval. Often, the main expense is installation, not the electronics itself. If your A&P can install it during annual, the cost is minimal.

The weighing or the glittery silver jewell that's his Mooney?

Is that plane-porn or what? Beautiful!

As per Anthony's post above. Good news is even if you get one with the servo boot shot (about the only thing that goes south with it), Brittain now has them in stock.

Lot's of AMU's and patience. I think it just plumbs directly into the vac system.

I am guessing that the old have the nice, tight V-notch while the new has the s-curve.

Just sayin'

I just got the shroud tubes back onto #2 yesterday and discovered that trying to hold an oily tube while getting the springs positioned properly was an exercise. Browsing the O/H manual revealed that there is a special tool, ST-142, the Lycoming Shroud Tube Wrench. Then I wondered what it looked like and found this on SkyGeek: What shocked me was the price. I knew it would be expensive, but really? Anyway, any suggestions on easy shroud R&R? Just curious to see what others have done. I wound up using a long-reach hose grip plier to hold the tube and a screw driver to work the springs in place. On my engine, each tube has two springs (IA does that) and they are not safety wired (lyc said somewhere it is not required). Now I am wondering if the springs were wired in place, you could just use the wrench (or hose pliers) to just twist it into place.

Never say never. I have a PAI-700 Vertical Card and it works just like a DG.

Again not a joke, but very humorous...out of the mouths of babes:

Headsets have large magnets in them, best to keep them away from compasses. Just sayin'.

See if your hangar elves can pull the clock and soak it in fine machine oil (sewing machine oil). I've heard that it cleans all the gunk out and lubricates such that the clock is as good as new. Just say'in.