HRM

LOL, nothing on a Mooney is an 'easy fix'. In a sort of mechano-masochistic way it is sort of fun though... MVP-50 Install Interior R&R Radio R&R (maybe this is the 'easy fix') Engine mounts R&R Jug R&R Exhaust system R&R Battery R&R Cowling seals R&R Seatbelts R&R ...all done under A&P/IA supervision (boy did they get some laughs).

owner produced

Boys, boys, boys... I love when I make a post, it gets misinterpreted, then it starts an FAA reg sh*tstorm. It turns out that the 'owner produced parts' reg is very loose. I sought a design that did not require CNC and I like the idea that you would need a sharp eye to tell that the knobs had been altered. I read the 'owner produced part' reg and I think both designs would pass scrutiny. I also agree with @xcrmckenna in that it would have to take a seriously backed up inspector to find this part change, especially with my design.

Well, the CNC might have been a bit much, you could just cut the cam out of stock with a bandsaw. Cutting a shape out of a flat piece of stock is much simpler than machining a complex shape, even with a CNC. The CNC I have is a "Makerspace" type, not industrial. The screws are just holding the knob to the cam, no stress on them. Besides, you could put some metal glue on before the screws. Lastly, the notched knobs on the @Sabremech parts are hardly the same as the knurled ones they are replacing, so one is well into a gray area (that no one will dispute) as to 'owner produced'.

I think one way to be the ultimate CB would be to pull the old knob off and grind away the cam. Then make a new cam with the CNC, which would just entail cutting the cam out of a piece of plate stock. Drill some holes and then use countersunk screws to affix the knob to the piece. Since the cam takes all the stress, you won't need heavy or deep screws for this. You also keep the original look.

I think it because MS likes 'Landscape' over 'Portrait'.

I understand.

Would you share the CAD for it? I have access to a CNC machine that could make this.

Now I am going to wax a bit philosophical since you have a plan. Why can't you just wrap the pipe with muffler tape until you can get the part in and do a proper repair? The problem with it as is is exhaust gases in the cockpit and possibly some degradation in power from altered flow, other than that I frankly don't see much of an issue. Is there an obscure rule that let's you get away with a field fix?

Pretty much, as Clarence said there are three drilled bolts that go into a pair of flanges that hold the pipe onto the muffler. There are castellated (castle) nuts and springs along with washers. The nuts are secured with cotters or safety wire. Given the state of your pipe, there is a good chance that at least one of these fasteners is so grody that it will break on removal. The trick (ask me how I know) with putting this on is to get the flanges lined-up such that you can get at each of the bolts to be able to see the hole so that you can get the cotter or safety wire in. If a Mooney A&P does this it will most likely appear that he has skills in the dark arts. It was designed to make the exhaust easy to remove at annual, but when done for the first time can cause, well, stress. I think I took it on and off three times before I figured it out, but then again this is plumbing and not electrical.

If you could get it to Maxwell (KGGG) he is an expert on Mooney dimensional issues and could rapidly diagnose and most likely correct the problem.

Definitely not bipartisan.

It is very possible that someone was stargazing and you flew through their beam. Astronomers use green lasers because they can be seen in the night sky, like a pointer. So that was the 'benefit of the doubt' mankind is inherently good answer. The reality is that teenagers and young adults, almost exclusively male, will do stupid things because they do not have a level of consciousness to realize the potential damage that their act can inflict. As @Hank pointed out, law enforcement has gotten quite good at ferreting out these hooligans, but you have to act quickly and have a general sense of the source of the beam.

Anybody? Now that I have my brand new strap installed, I am wondering about this as well. No joy from the SMM although the pipe appears to angle back sharply in this diagram:

That door is so clean and beautiful it brought me to tears (see mine above).

At my age that could be an evolutionary advantage.

Just ordered, will be here Thursday, Amazon Prime.$3.83, so there!

My 'absorber' is pretty much shot. Looks almost like <gasp> asbestos strapping: I seek CB, safe and workable solutions. TIA.

Can you get the muffler out w/o pulling the lower cowl ('66 E)?

What's the current thought on cleaning the hardened glue mess off?

Well, he was 75 years old, could have been an event. I only hope I am still flying then--condolences to his family and we'll know more after the NTSB report is released. At this point it is all speculation, but one thing is certain, and for that I'll quote Donne: ...any man's death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind. And therefore never send to know for whom the bell tolls; it tolls for thee.

I was sort of hoping that Lyc had put some kind of failsafe in there where enough oil would remain in the engine to get you on the ground. Would take some tricky engineering.

Are those legal? The reason I ask is that a few years ago I flew to FDK for my neice's wedding. At the airport Sunday morning, getting ready to leave, I found a huge puddle of oil. Turns out the oil cooler had been fitted with nut plates, which I know are different from the clip nuts you linked to, ten years before when there was an AD that required that the cooler be removed and inspected at annual--at least that is what I surmised from my investigation. The A&P who repaired my E said that the bolts used were smaller than the bolts specified and that the oil cooler had rubbed against the cowling until it finally opened up. That was an eye opener for me as to replacing parts, something as innocuous as this takes a decade to cause a potential engine out scenario. Luckily, I think it gave up the ghost shortly before landing. While on the subject, if the oil cooler was to blow out in the air; i.e., major leak or hose comes off, is the engine designed to keep running and just get progressively hotter?

LOL. I am nearing the end of my engine mounts project, IA took a look yesterday and had a chuckle over how long it is taking. There is a short-list of everything on a Mooney that ISN'T a PITA. Oh, and here is my latest 'special Mooney tool' that let's you put the nut on the top-left bolt on the oil cooler:

Thanks, I am getting the idea. Mine had two Adels that were gawd-awful to remove. The single one around both lines (I have the fire sleeves as well) makes much better sense. Clearly the idea is to keep the hoses under the shield and there is no specific guidance as to how to do that as far as I have found.