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Mike, To hopefully help with your search..... are you refering to the outer bezel that holds the switch in place. (I think if this threaded piece, knurled on the outside, is missing, the whole switch is loose in the hole in the panel?) This may be a Bendix switch part, not so much a mooney decoration....? Good luck in your search. Best regards, - a -

I had Sven's version screened on my instruments on the 1965 M20C...without the outer circle though....

Jolie, Are you comfortable with slipping the E? (in VMC...not while still in the soup) I could get my C to slow down, Throttle back, full flaps, slip (keeping nose down at all times). I am still learning the ways with the R. Speed brakes are nice, but not as effective as turning the airplane sideways. I am using Craig's style of personal minimums, currently 800 ft above the deck on the east coast. This is also typical of MDA for the VOR and GPS approach to the home drome. -a-

As an added learning tool.... Keep in mind, when you are in the system you can revisit your flights on flightaware.com. If you really want to see how well you did in the hold....(everyone in the flight school will be following you online) Flying Aggie, I agree with your challenging situation. It takes a high level of confidence that you are on course prior to descending on a non-precision approach using a VOR. Making sure you are on course, after the cone of confusion, takes precious time away from your descent. Try and be slow (hard to do in a Mooney) at the FAF to give you more time to descend. It took me a while to get this. conservatively arriving over the airport 2000' agl is pretty dissapointing......safe, but nowhere near MDA... Major advantage of the approach rated GPS: no cone of confusion. Stay on course and descend. It is still a quick descent, but no loss of time proving to yourself that you are still on course. Best regards, -a-

"Just wondering if it's a good idea or even commonplace for newly minted IR pilots to inform ATC that this is their first solo IFR outing." - flyboy0681 I thought about this. I learned the trade in the NYC area last year. This statement tells ATC that you don't feel ready.... In real life, I found you will figure out that the controller you are working with is a student before he figures out you are a student. No need to tell each other...Strive for excellence. On the other hand, when you are a little slow to change waypoints (obscure ones, that are not in your clearance) in the rapid fire environment, they again will let you know your shortcomings. No need to tell them...Strive for excellence. Thoughts on proper equipment for IFR flight: I did find that it is possible to fly IFR with a single VOR head. But you would not be able to keep up in tough environments. ATC gives headings, VOR and intersection names and expects you to begin your new direction as soon as practical. Most important thing I learned after getting the rating. To improve your mobility into the enroute environment.... Make a list of all VORs in your state, frequencies (and morse code of course) if you are using Nav radios, three letter identifiers if you are using GPS. GPS is about the only way to go. Punch in the name (verify proper data) get heading. My KLN90B takes alot of knob twisting and button pushing before it chokes out direction and distance. Notes on simulators: The biggest difference between simulator and actual airplane. All the knobs and radios are different. When told to go direct to "X-VOR" be ready on how to do that in the real plane. Good skill to develop: small neat writing in a chart format. ATC name, center or approach, frequency, altimeter setting, altitude and heading. Each contact with a controller will probably lead to filling in a line in the chart. Have your chart prepared prior to flight. When you fly the return, most of the ATC contact will be with the same controllers on the same frequencies - magic. Best regards, -a-

In My M20C, I found replacing the oriiginal hardware with SS screws made them easy to remove on the following year (or as required). Hand turning the first 1/4 on each fastener is a must for non SS. Not so critical once replaced with SS. On the M20R, they are all SS already...whatever happened to the windy dissimilar metals debate? Replacing many tinnerman nuts with matching (non-pointy) sheet metal screws will make life easier the next time around also. It seams the springy nature of the tinnermans gets lost over thirty plus years. Rule #1 on replacement. If the screw driver slips the least bit on removal, toss the screw and replace with new. Reminder: Get new driver tips. Slipping out of the screw head may lead to a dissapointing paint scratch. Belly screws are not all the same size. Check the manual and you may find that a few are smaller diameter than others. When putting all this stuff back: Hold the panels in place with a few screws at first. Don't tighten any until all screws are in place. This will help position the sheet metal properly. If you were to start tightening screws in one place and move your way around, each hole gets more in more out of alignment. When this happens, loosen them all back up and devise a new "cross the sheet" tightening pattern. 1/4 turn fastener cores (camlocs and dzus) are easy to exchange with SS pieces. camlocs require a special pliers to make a simple replacement. (pliers are available with the cores) Core sizes also can vary in length on the cowling (check your manual) When re-using screws: clean by leaving in bag with oil or WD-40, set on paper towel to dry. The're not really that dirty, if they are....toss as required. Overall, old rusty fasteners can leave you heavy hearted on the ramp....One stripped screw or camloc can keep you from gaining the access that you would really like to have. Best regards, -a- PS. Stripped out truss head screws can actually be grabbed with a very small grippy pair of plyers available from the tool truck that stops by the airport. One of the best things I learned from working with my A&P. See Snapon.com. This tool can also grab whatever is left after you are done left hand drilling, easy outing or just plain ripping the head off of a fastener....

Scott, Good thinking. Consider sending squirrel a PM..... -a-

keep an eye out for sticky valves or any unexpected vibrations. my first mooney sat for about 2 years..... Stuck valve caused a scary moment.... Anyone know if there is a special treatment or oil that you can use to ward off effects of years of sitting. Glad to hear things are going the right direction. Best regards, -a-

Planning on departing from NJ.... Not committed yet, but always want to go.....work dependent. Best regards, -a-

Something I found while training... http://feeds.feedburner.com/UniversityOfNorthDakotaAerocast You might it under podasts in Itunes.... The UND Aerocast you don't even need an Ipad for this.... itunes works for on old windows machines too..... It has a mix of PPL, IFR and Comm all mixed in. You can easily identify what it is by its title. Somebody at the school must have been working on a degree in videography and communication. Let me know what you think.... Best regards, -a-

"If my wife asks any of you the annual, paint and panel cost about 5 grand OK????? LOL" Russ Russ, Have you been hanging out with the squirrel? -a-

you can always read all of the posts.......It is quite a challenge, especially if you have gotten off to a late start!!!

I agree to all three.... [1] IR is better than no IR. (about $1,000+ off my annual insurance) [2] "I really wanted a V-Tail Bonanza until I bought Aviation Consumer's Used Aircraft Guide" - Jim I just pulled out my Aviation Consumer's guide...It's dated 1989. It shows 1983 M20J valued at $76,000 (average). This guide was the backbone of my research also...same M20 conclusion !!! [3] Avoid zero / zero departures.... [4] Overall Conclusion: Get an M20, an IR, and pick some limits for yourself. Best regards, -a-

maxmax, Mooney economics, from an engineering perspective.... Rockets and missiles are going to probably be price bound at the top by factory built Bravos and Ovations. Since the economy and fuel prices have brought the factory built aircraft down in price, the modified rockets and missiles need to shift downwards also. There is a core group of people that would prefer the modified J or K, but many like the fully engineered package from the factory. Either way, the modified birds are getting older and probably much closer to TBO than when Rocket Engineering was in full swing modifying Mooneys. A freshly overhauled rocket or missile will probably be back in the premium category. I saw the Rocket that this thread is originally discussing. Athough, It was a couple of years ago. I was really impressed. It started me researching Mooneys with extra HP. My thoughts, shared... Best regards, -a-

David, That sounds like a great way to test for the leakage... So, how did MooneySpace work for you? You put in your request for help at 7:28am on January 8 and within six hours you got four responses and one included the following advice.... "[3] Oil is leaking uncontrolled inside the system. Oil pressure enters the the shaft through holes in the side by a hose supplied by the governor. If the plug becomes unseated, the oil pressure that is supposed to hold your prop angle of attack / rpm is now leaking back unnoticeably into the crank case. Fortunately the fix is simple. Remove the prop, inspect the plug and put it back ih place." Were you able to use the advice? Did this save you any time, money or heartache? - The power of MooneySpace.... I am glad you were able to post the resolution. Best regards, -a-

"The plane is itself the same as an Ovation " - Aynard Insert the word "nearly" in the sentence and you will get the proper answer..... Essentially the M20R is designed with specific strength upgrades to the M20L. They are not the same planes. Mitch has supplied the links. It is a real bummer that the conversion to stronger legs never occured... Best regards, -a-

Kendal, Do you sell rides in the big Pitts? Best regards, -a-

Something to consider... Keep your powder dry. You may consider making your extra payment to your savings account. You never know how to best use this cash. I agree, paying down the "high interest" loan is a good idea. I believe you may also want to consider keeping the flexibility prior to signing on with the new lender. Depends on whether you may need the excess cash for something else....Suze Orman will agree, paying down your higher interest debt is always the best idea..... I used Bank of America to finance my M20R originally. One person (looking to purchase a plane) had complained that they required too much down payment. It may have been up to 15% of the sales price at the time. BofA was very profesional and can easily give you a quote and tell you what you need for downpayment (or equity). Their agreement is not perfectly plain english, but you can read each paragraph and understand what it represents. They can call back their loan if they want to...Expect that they use Vref (or similar) as their source of plane value. You may also consider supplying your own prepared statement of what the plane is worth. This will be important, since the 15% (down or equity) has to be based on some agreed total value specific to your plane. As far as interest rates increasing... Watch Ben Bernanke at the Federal Reserve. When the FED raises the overnight lending rate, the aircraft loans will also increase. until then, the aircraft loans will be market driven, but will still be tied to this (currently low) base rate. As of this week the FED quarterly meeting indicated no increase in interest rate for a while. As you may know, the FED controls interest rate based on theory of inflation vs. economic growth. As long as the unemployment level is as high as it is (9.4%), our government will try to stimulate the economy until inflation becomes a problem. History has shown interest rates have gone up .5% per quarter for a couple of years in a row until the economy is stifled again. You will want to have your loan in place before you see unemployment drop, housing sales increase and the stock market making new highs. Once your long term loan is in place, inflation can be a good thing. Best regards, -a-

65M20C - 2,400 rpm (2,500 more vibration, 2,350 yellow arc) favorite altitudes: 11,500 - 12,500 ROP only (unable LOP) 94M20R - 2,500 rpm (max rpm available to unmodified Ovation 1) favorite altitudes: 11 - 12,500 (Peak, LOP or ROP) Best regards, -a-

716, KD and Reese seem to be related at N87 (web check). Reese is well known for excellent paint work on the east coast. I believe Reese painted a Mooney for AOPA sweepstake plane (5 or 7 years ago). Reese also painted my M20R about the same time frame. There is a core of Mooney experience at Essex County (Fairfield, NJ). Somebody on the Forum has recommended them, including contact name and information (try a search). Best regards, -a-

A 24v system has some nice weight saving advantages and stronger electric motors. They make good sense when designing a plane fresh, building from scratch or a complete overhaul / rebuild. I will go out on a limb and say that a 24v system has never been retrofitted to a 12v Mooney. It is possible, just not practical, with nearly insignificant advantages. Money would be better spent buying a different mooney with the 24v system in place already. There is always a few guys who love their Moonies so much it deserves every upgrade out there. Go ahead and speak up...... flame suit on... Best regards, -a-

Leesh, Having a reliable temperature indicator is a flight safety "requirement" for flying in the NE this time of year...... Requirement, meaning if you are experiencing icing (freezing rain), you would really want to know if you have escaped those conditions or are they getting worse....? It is also an important tool for density altitude calculations, hot summer, short runway, full load, will I get off the ground or should I wait till later calculation? I think the rest may be just convenience. A digital read-out is the best way. You want to glance at the gauge and know what it is reading. You don't want to have to stare at it and take a statistical sampling and average the input to get a result. The windshield mounted mechanical device is lowest cost, but vibration and placement makes it incredibly difficult to read accurately. If you decide to go this way, an A&P with experience and tools for drilling in acryllic windows is the lowest cost way to go. A simple mistake drilling the hole in the windshield could cost a fortune. It is incredibly easy to make a mistake while drilling acrylic......... I always use my thermometer to determine whether or not I need pre-heat to start the engine. My M20C would start pretty reliably above 28 dF. A study of other links will provide information on where to locate the thermocouple, out of the sun and away from exhaust streams = under a wing and on an access panel. Best regards, -a-

Sorry all for robbing the thread space.... Luc, I prefer the dark, but not that choosey...Next scheduled visit is April time frame. I typically fly (commercial of course) into Zaventum, live in Antwerp for a week and commute to Heist. I would enjoy making a visit to see a European Mooniac. Best regards, -a-

Luc and Jim, Make mine a Leffe. Mechelen is a beautiful small city. I get the opportunity to drive through on my way to Heist-op-den-berg a few times each year... I don't go anywhere without Mrs. Garmin as my copilot.... Best regards, -a-

Tony, It is indeed a good time to be buying. However, you are going to need to describe your typical mission if you expect to get usable responses. There are a few models that cross the magical $100k boundary and there are several answers to your question. What do you use your plane for? How many people travel with you? Typical distance you expect to fly? Do you expect to fly IFR or are local VFR flights your only expectation? mountains of flats? etc..etc.. etc.. Best regards and welcome to the Mooney world..... -a-