Scott Aviation

My 201 is the same I'm maybe reaching 2610-25 ish with the mechanical tach but am hesitant mess with the set screw on the governor.

I'd hate to see the empty weight report. I bet she's a heavy bird.

Approx 29 airports but Canada is a lot more spread out between airports I find than the US.

I guess for enough cash the factory would have gold plated your mooney if you asked

Goo-Gone, or a product called NEVR-DULL it is a wadding polish for chrome, lamps, http://www.nevrdull.com/ So when I finished painting my plane I pulled the paper off the windows a bit soon and there was still a fine mist in the air and got some on my side windows... i used nevr-dull in a test spot and a little elbow grease and it took the paint off without marking, or damaging the windows...So I think it is a slight abrahasive but small enough to not even notice on plexi. I would not recommend wiping the entire window down with it, but for spot cleaning it would be perfect.

Industrial Instrumentation engineering, and no i don't fix guitars. Lol

One thing I have noticed is the same panel fits in different locations ie. belly vs wing. On my 201 the belly inspection panels are completely flat while the wing wings have a bow in them to create shape when fitted tight. If you use one of the flat belly panels in these locations you will also have the same issue from what I can see in the picture. Just a thought. I agree with Jose that if you bend them that will work too.

I think some other things to consider with sitting are carbs and fuel injection servos and dividers seals drying out. Boost pump seals. Fuel pumps. Prop seals. These are all things that will nickel and dime you to death in airplanes that have sat for long periods of time with a coating of fuel inside and lack of lubrication and use.

Ya that's cruiser I hope all are ok What a shame http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2013/01/mooney-m20j-n5763h-warsaw-municipal.html?m=1

+1 Just did my windows this summer. Paint stripped airplane.. side windows were toast so didnt care, paint stripper ate through them in an hour and made a bloody mess. Tried to protect the front windshield to reuse....covered it in multiple layers...still damaged a small portion.. out came the front window too. All of the plexi is held in with angled aluminum strips around all edges of the glass...the front window eyebrow needs to come off aswell. 201 windows are easy to do... Greatlakes aero supply has them..pick your thickness and color and your good to go...I went gray all the way around with dark tinted rear windows....love them!! I was told by GLAP that silicone they sell was fine for the window installations...they arent going anywhere..apply liberally. *******big note...if you replace the glass in between stripping and painting then I would make sure you cover the inside and outside very well while painting or you will get the paint electrostatically attracted to the plexi on the inside and make cleaning it off extra pain in the ass.******************** Dont ask how I know.

When I restored my 201 and imported it into Canada, I installed an ACK E-04 406ELT this summer and registered it with the beacon service (a must do). Remote switch in the dash, as well as a remote siren on the cable to let you know audibly if its going off. So far, so good. I also have a Spot Messenger on my dash as a back up. We fly on the west coast and over the rockies...This fall I was flying back west over the rockies and could here the SAR helicopters/buffalo planes over the radio looking for a 121.5 signal going off somewhere, it was faint and intermittent. I helped for some time as It was stronger where I was. Turns out they were 80 miles too far west looking for the signal and the 172 driver perished, but may have lived if help had been there sooner (took 6 hours to track down). Don't underestimate the power of your airplane jacked into satellite positioning... $600 is a small insurance policy for my comfort knowing that I've got a way better chance of being picked up and found within an hour of that signal going off. (the spot helps to) Just something to think about.. cell phone coverage may work up high but get in a remote mountain pass and its "no signal"

Lightspeed zulu2. Best headset ever!!

I priced out replacing the window skins in my 77 J during my 3 year resto. I gathered up all the p/n from the parts manual and sent a couple of quote requests out for the skins. I believe I was $1200. Almost $600 alone to replace the door skin. Next time look closely around your windows and doors and add up all the rivets you would have to drill out and re-do. IT'S NOT EVEN CLOSE TO PRACTICLE. Promise!!! Vinyl corner inserts are about as good as it gets. My opinion if you want the oem rounded corners by a newer mooney.

This is what I built out of a ceramic heater and some stainless steel. Cheap under $45. Plane is normally hangar end but I was visiting family over New Years and it was -6'C so 7am turned the heater on outside came back 2 hours later to a warm cowling plane fired up first blade rotation. I just stuff a couple of rags around the edges to keep the heat in. Scat hose is nice and short for storage and less heat loss. Overall I'm really impressed after 1 use.

I don't know what colors you have but when I painted my plane I used all Toyota paint codes and then went and bought 4 touch up Pens. I had to use them a few times now and work awesome. You might find your similar or close enough colors at an auto parts store or car dealer. Luckily white is fairly neutral. Just a thought.

http://romenews-tribune.com/pages/full_story/push?article-Plane+fails+to+put+down+landing+gear-+no+one+injured%20&id=21208096 http://kstp.com/article/stories/s2876553.shtml http://kathrynaviationnews.com/?p=126763 all in the last 2 weeks.....perhaps, their heads were somewhere else for atleast 2 of them. 1 sounds mechanical

I am a big fan of airtex, second full interior with them and have been impressed with their customer service, quality and price. I would order a quart of 3M 1300L high strength contact cement for the seat foam (aircraft spruce has in stock). and you will need to build aluminium 1/2 strips by about 18" long to insert/slide in the seat bottoms to screw into the seat frame for support so the vinyl/leather doesnt tear. They supply the crimping tool and clips to secure the front side of the seat material to the frame as well. To be honest when I removed the old foam and cushions from my seats the seat pans and backs had some cracks and dents so I took my time to repair those before installing the new materials. I guess over time climbing over the seats or standing on them beats them up.

Try a bigger fuse?

Yup, tried a Zulu 2, Zulu and DC 10.3 no change

What did you do to resolve the cap floating around and not seating correctly? How should they be secured? I didnt do the work myself to the cap's and mag's I had an engine shop test and overhaul them.

Tried this already too Should have mentioned that. No change. Regarding the P-leads I think I do recall 1 of them being spliced under the panel, I guess I should have a closer look, does the P-lead shield being grounded make that much difference in radio noise? Any thoughts?

So I've put 20 hours on the 201 since restoration including new engine/radios etc. Since day 1 there has been noise in the radio when recieving a radio call, or whenever there was traffic on the radio, Ive got 2 kx-155's and an audio panel. The description of the noise almost sounds like whenever I recieve a call a microphone in the cabin is switched on and all you can hear is the sound of the engine buzzing sound underneath the radio chatter. Its not there during startup and taxi, I find its only present when the plane is at full power in cruise or on takeoff etc. There is also no noise when talking over intercom All crystal clear. So far I have tested -Turning off the intercom-still there -Switching between com1 and com2 -noise still there -the p-leads and ensured they were grounded and shielded properly. -I have cycled between left and right mag in flight with no change. -I had the magneto rebuilt with new capacitors I had the ignition harness tested and had new plugs installed. -Radios are new as is all the wiring for them. I have yet to test the spark plug resistance <5000ohms and the ignition harness shielding is not damaged. Im just wondering before I rip cowlings back off and start pulling all the plugs and plug screws off if anyone has experienced this issue before

When i did my 201 restoration my ram air butterfly valve hinge points were severely worn and the seal was damaged so before paint I epoxied and sealed over the ram air opening and completely removed the cable and brackets. Not only is the cowl cleaner but I don't miss it at all.