DonMuncy

AOPA and MAPA. Worth it for the magazines alone. The rest is gravy. I have never messed with EAA. May be a mistake on my part. Don

This may be a little off topic, but may be of some use to some of you if you are faced with having to move your plane slightly uphill with no help. I discovered that if you have a couple of 2x4 blocks, you can put one in front of each main. Then adjust your tow bar to angle the plane one direction. Go out to the end of the other wing and shove it backwards a few feet. Walk you way down the wing toward the wheel, keeping pressure to keep it from rolling toward you. Kick the block back to chock the wheel. Readjust the tow bar to angle the other direction. Go to the other wing tip and repeat. Pushing on the end of the wing gives you a lot more leverage than you can put pushing on the prop. This yawing is slow and not fun at all, but it saved me from having to go look for someone to help on a few occasions. It will also encourage you to buy or build a power tow. Don

I have probably bored everyone with the tow I designed and built. Glad to share plans, photos, etc. PM me. Don

I have an old set of David Clark 13.4s and my wife uses an old set of Sigtronics. It didn't take too long to realize the pressure of both these sets was tough to take after a few hours. Being cheap, I bought and installed Headset, Inc.'s ANR units in both. I also got Oregon Aero's memory foam ear pads. I "de-sprung" the metal over-the-head straps by trial and error. We have been quite pleased with the results, both as to noise control and pressure comfort. Granted, I have not done a side-by-side comparison with either the in the ear models or the super expensive brands, but this is an inexpensive alternative which works quite well. Don

I have a 231 and have nver owned a 201. My perspective is that on about 5% of my flights I am very glad I have the capability to quickly get high enough to see the weather and the ability to climb over almost anything you can't easily fly around. That, to me, is very comforting. However, this comes at a cost. For a large part of my flying, (I believe) a 201 can equal my ordinary cruising speed , at a lower operating cost. Also, it appears to me that the 201 Lycoming is almost bullet-proof, and the Continental requires periodic cylinder replacement. This is just my experience and belief. Most of the time, the 201 is the better choice, but on those flights where you need it, the 231 is a lot better choice. What is that worth to you. I am not at all unhappy with my choice. Don

Skybird, Where is the leak? On the bottom or top? Don

I read the article. Don't you wonder what made his flight plan "suspicious". Don

Where do you get the info on the "late 2012" delivery date. I didn't see that anywhere. Don

I started this as a new post, so as not to point fingers, take sides etc., but it seems to me that lately there have been more bickering and personal attacks then I am used to on Mooneyspace. Some of the other sites have a lot of that, but Mooneyspace has generally been very civilized and pleasant. It would seem to me that we would all enjoy it more if we could somehow ignore the first barb and not respond when we perceive someone to be less than courteous, or stepping on our toes. Thanks for everyones consideration. Don

I attended a FAAST seminar yesterday where the guy conducting the operation said they did not like the term "uncontrolled field". They prefer to call them "untowered" and to think of them as "pilot controlled". Not a critical distinction, but does point out that we should be careful to help control safety. Don

Quote: Hank Jiminy creepers! How do you get 11.71 gigawatts to the flux capacitor???

I've been keeping count. We now have 2 people saying Jimmy is a lying thief and 27 saying he is a honest, straightforward square shooter. Knowing the general tendency of forum hangers-on to pile on when a bad guy is being criticized, I think that speaks volumes for Jimmy's character. Don

I was extremely gratified to see Jimmie's response to Allsmiles' allegations. I read allsmiles' postings from the start. I was unhappy that I could not respond with anything other than "Jimmie and David would not do that", as I did not have any facts to refute the rants against AAA. Now that we have heard, at least the basic facts, from both sides, we are free to choose who to believe. I have known Jimiie and David for about 11 years now. I had no knowledge about either of them when I started looking for a Mooney to buy, but after I bought my plane from them, I have had ongoing contact with them. I now consider both of them my friends. I have never had any reason to believe that anything either of them told me was not 100% true or that they have engaged in any business transaction with less than 100% integrity. I, therefore, choose to believe Jimmie's rendition of the facts. As Jimmie said, no one in his business can make everyone happy, but I follow both this and the MAPA list rather carefully, and I don't recall anyone other than allsmiles, who had a bad thing to say about Jimmie, David or AAA. Don

The hangar owner wants you to pay to protect him from all the problems he can. If his door falls on your plane, your insurance will pay you for the repairs. But then your insurance company has the right to go after the hangar owner to recoup what they paid; unless he is an additional insured, in which case they can't. Good for the hangar owner; bad for your insurer. If someone is hurt due to the use of your hangar, they may go after both the hangar owner and you. If the owner is an additional insured, your policy will defend both of you. I personally don't like the idea of a commercial hangar owner forcing you to pay for insurance to cover them. However, this is a fairly commom clause in hangar leases, and you may not have a choice. That is, if you don't provide the insurance, they may not lease to you. Ideally, you could strike that papagraph form the lease before signing, but you may be looking for an new place to hangar. Don

As to using a chain pulley set-up from a beam in the hangar, you may want to use what Lowes (and probably Home Depot) calls a "come along" winch. Inexpensive and rated for plenty of weight. Also a lot easier to hook up as they are much lighter than chain. Don

Luc, Yes I would like to see pics, plans and specs. I suspect you are like me; it isn't just about saving money, but also for the satisfaction of designing and constructing them yourself. Don

To those of you who have kept up with my power tow unit: I always use my power tow to push the plane in the hangar, but use the manual bar to pull it out (mostly downhill) and to take with me when away from home. However, on at least one occasion, the manual bar slipped and dumped me on my rear. Perhaps having too much time on my hands, I decided I could design and build one that can't slip out of the tube on the plane.

Not an answer to your question, and I don't know what model you have, but my M20K manual erroneously lists this bulb as a 28 volt. Mine had a 28v bulb in it, and was so dim you could not see it. I replaced it with a 12v and it is now fine. Don

My experience is (Dallas) that you are unlikely to have a problem. I bought mine from an individual (through a broker), 10 years ago, and am hangared at Dallas Executive (RBD). I haven't heard a peep from anyone. Don

As to a stuck fuel float; if your gauge reads full (when the tank is not), that would indicate both floats were stuck. I think this is highly unlikely. If one is stuck, the gauge will be substantially off (as the gauge will read the cumulative effect of both sensors), but not full. Ie, with one stuck up and the other working, with a half tank, the gauge would read 3/4, and when empty,it would read 1/2. I also think it highly unlikely a float would be stuck in any position other than up. The fuel level exerts a lot of pressure on the float. If you take one of these sensors apart, you find it is much like any rheostat. It has a lever operated arm which slides across a copper wire winding, making electrical contact at various distances along the wound wire. It would seem to take a lot of corrosion to overcome the force of the fuel pushing the float up. Don

Assuming the fuel gauge system is the same in your J as the K, if it reads empty with the master off, it is almost certainly the wiring to the tank sensors or a tank sensor itself at fault. 12v power goes to the gauge and the other wire on the gauge runs out to the tank. The tank has two sensors, one on the inboard side and one on the outer end. The inner gauge is insulated from the tank. The wire from the gauge runs into the inner sensor and on through it to the outer sensor, where it goes through the sensing element and to the ground. The net effect of this is that the average reading between the two sensors is received by the gauge, which theoretically gives an accurate reading regardless of the roll attitude of the plane. What you are most likely seeing is that the wiring is getting to a ground somewhere. The most likely spot is the sensor on the inboard side, where the screws holding the sensor in the tank has insulated washers. If one of those fails, the voltage runs directly to ground and tells the gauge the tank is full. If you are reasonably good tracing electrical, this is not a tough one to find. If not, anyone with knowledge of how the system works can do it relatively easily. Removing the side panel under the door (or in the anagalous spot on the pilots's side) will give access to the inner sensor. To access the outer one, you have to take an inspection panel off the underside of the wing just past the end of the fuel tank. It is a little tight in there, but not too bad. If I can help, send me a PM or call. Don 214 207-6744

I think it is probably appropriate for an instructor (or perhaps any passemger) to verify that the plane they are climbing into is airworthy, which includes being within a valid annnual. Don

I have never had any instructor ask me to insure them. I might gently suggest I would shop around for someone else to train with, or inquire whether they wanted to pick up the additional insurance charge. In today's economy they may rethink their position. Don

Go to the manufacturer's web site and see what they recommend as a minimum. Even at that, I wouldn't worry if it were a little below that minimum. If the oil consumption is low enough to satisfy you and the engine is not making any metal, it will keep on going without any serious effect. I think I read somewhere that someone ran an engine withour any rings, and the power was within 10 % of the rated number. Don

Both Jimmy Garrison and David McGee are first class. I have never heard either of them convey information which was not technically and actually accurate. I bought my plane from them 11 years ago and would have no hesitation in going back to them. Don