Pinecone

I have most of those setup on the top of the 750. G3X data fields are set to data to the next waypoint, 750 to destination. Right side has a 7" G3X, so she has PFD and MFD and can check whatever she wants. Last trip, got her to start changing the frequencies and altimeter settings. Soon, I will be able to sleep while she and the autopilot take care of things.

When my shop went to reset my gain settings back to the STC settings, they found that those settings had changed from what they had originally set. Just going by what they told me. But the settings that are in it now do not pitch oscillate and do not have random AP disconnects.

I would not use hot glue for anything except holding some parts in position while making a proper repair. ABS is so easy to work with. You can buy ABS paste/putty or make your own. Just dissolve some ABS in MEK (paint section at hardware or box store). To reinforce, I would use 3/4 ounce fiber glass cloth. Apply with MEK with a small amount of ABS dissolved in it. Then once that dries, add another application of MEK with more ABS dissolved in it.

They finished the job in late May, so it would have been that Rev. But it was redone in September, IIRC. They pull the latest from Garmin dealer website each time.

No idea. How can I find it? We redid the gain in September or so. It was fine in October going to/from the TX PPP.

Again, this is a NEW plan and their website is not yet updated.

Long thread on BT. @LANCECASPER posted the meat of the new plans. They are supposed to start next month. The Local plan allows up to 350 MPH and the Global plan is good for 550 MPH. Walmart supposedly has a few StarLink Minis for $350 - 370.

I loved the Flight guide also. BTW, StarLink is coming out with new plans, so inflight internet access will be $65 per month for up to 50GB of data.

They are available to Garmin dealers. My dealer may give them to ME, but I would not distribute them

You have to fly the airplane. But while doing so, you can also hit the AP disconnect. That is why it is on the yoke and easy to get to. If you van maintain control, I would still land. If I am fighting it and deviating, I may go missed, but do you really want to fight it for a whole approach. CB and master and such are only if you are under control and have time.

I think the idea is, don't automatically do an overhaul if an IRAN will work. Work with your prop shop.

The downside of having your prop overhauled is that they MUST grind the blades to reprofile. Do that a few times and your blades will be too thin and need to be replaced. Or you get a new prop.

Very true. Yeah, the basic idea works great. But the markups need to be tweaked.

And if you are doing a major panel job, replace the yoke balls. Easy when everything is apart.

True. But either say, it should be trivial to fix.

I didn't say they did not have a back order list. I repeated what Mr. Pollack said at Mooney Max about PRE-PAID orders.

The hotter spark on an electronic mag does a better job igniting the fuel-air charge, so you see little mag drop. Also, most report being able to run deeper LOP.

Because the G3X came from the experimental side. So slightly different. Same with the radio frequencies. In most Gamin, Active is Green, Standby is white. On G3X, they are White for Active, Blue for Standby. Not sure why they do not change those little things in an update.

My K had pitch oscillations with the original gain settings. My shop did the SB gain setting change and that solved the issue. But I started having some unexplained auto pilot disconnects (others have reported this also). So my shop thought maybe go back to the original gain settings. But they found that Garmin had changed the settings in the STC, so they put those in and so far, minimal pitch oscillations (1 - 2 knots) and no disconnects. So it appears that there are 3 sets of gain settings. The Original STC ones. The SB ones. And the New STC ones.

FYI, the only way to get a zero time engine is to buy one from the factory. Either a New one or a Factory Remanufactured one. Anything else is an Overhauled or IRAN and the clock keeps ticking.

Easy way to tell of you are LOP or ROP. While watching the EGT, lean or richen the mixture. If you lean and the EGT goes down, you are LOP. If you lean and the EGT goes up, you are ROP. If the EGT goes down both ways, you are at Peak. Richening would be the opposite. If richer is higher EGT you are LOP. If richer is lower EGT, you are ROP. The problem comes, if you think you are LOP, but you are not. That puts you in the slightly ROP range, which is not good. If you are at 65% power or less, not a big deal. Once you figure out an LOP power setting, you can pull back the throttle, pull the prop back, and set your proper fuel flow. I run at (-SB) 29.5 inches, 2300 RPM, 10.1 GPH. And that is 65% power and about 25 degrees LOP.

220, that is what it is rated at.

Ve know what you want better than YOU know what you want.

It seems to me, that the simplest solution is a generic gauge, with a sticker that has the proper gallons and lines around the gauge. Just need to get a good picture of each gauge. And for Monroy owners, have some one for each tank setup do the work of filling their their tanks to certain increments and providing the data to make the label.

And the issue with ordering parts, even if they have enough pre-pair ordered was addressed at Mooney Max. Mooney, at that time, was afraid that they might not be open by the time the order comes in. So no one to receive, unpack, inspect, label, pack and ship out. This would leave everyone who paid, without funds or parts.