Pinecone

No, the air in the engine is fully saturated. And the manufactures state that it takes 30 - 60 minutes to evaporate the water from the oil. Do you have actual data that says differently? Also, a LOT of anecdotal info about engines that were severally corroded with ground runs only.

Yes, you need a sync wire to make them do anything that requires them to be synched in some way. They have to have some way to tell each other what to do when.

I have been a fan of pulsing lights since I was flying a CAP aircraft with a simple pulsed landing light. Airplane waiting for us to land called to tell us our light was flashing. I told it was supposed to. His comment was it was VERY eye catching. Exactly what I want. As for removing old wiring, if it is a major upgrade, it is easy to do, you remove pretty much everything. BUT, if you are talking about removing one or two items, you might be paying a lot of money for them to figure out what exactly can be removed versus what has to stay for the remaining items to work.

I feel that way about my 252. Great for XC, but not a go out for 30 - 60 boring holes or doing patterns flight.

But it took @OSUAV8TER to commit to ordering a substantial number to make it happen.

Hey, we were slow, but not THAT slow. Normal deliveries were at 325 KIAS. And when I flew the Hog, we are primarily anti armor (80s) so we used 6000 and 2000 feet slant range for long range and short range strafe. And we did two target, where we would fire at one target at 6000 feet then side step and engage a second target before 2000 foot foul line.

I have a 252. Most of them are dual alternator from the factory. Although, from the build sheet the second one was optional. The original set up was a 3 needle load meter. One for each alternator, one for total load. But there was no room in the panel for this, and the Garmin EIS covers the issue. No, the Garmin is setup to measure alternator load. That 4 amps is continuous. If it was charging amps, it would be more near 0 after a short period of running (unless the battery is a bit low.

My solution to the overall issue and the start switch AD was to get rid of the turn key setup and went with two locking toggles for the mags and a spring loaded one for the starter.

It used 2 quarts in 6.9 hours. After filling, it used 1/2 a quart in 11 hours (4 hours low altitude, 7 hours high altitude).

And then when the engine cools, it will become liquid again. The steam you see from pulling the dipstick is from fresh combustion. The recommendation is you need to FLY the aircraft for at least an hour to drive the water out of the oil. Do what you want, but there are LOTS of reports of engines being run up on the ground ending up with serious corrosion. Also, show me ONE reasonable source that says that a ground run is good enough? From Philips 66 - "Ideally, aircraft engines should be used on a regular basis. Rust can occur when an engine is used infrequently or operated for a short period without reaching an operating temperature sufficient to evaporate the water generated from the fuel combustion process. Flying at least once a week for 30 minutes to an hour while maintaining an oil temperature in the 180°F range, should eliminate this problem." From EAA - "Continental states that the best way to care for and preserve the engine is to fly once a week. Lycoming also goes along with this." Continental Service Instruction for storage - https://www.reiffpreheat.com/Continental SIL99-1.pdf From Lycoming - "Engine temperature and length of operating time are very important in controlling rust and corrosion. The desired flight time for air cooled engines is at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165°F to 200°F at intervals not to exceed 30 days, depending on location and storage conditions. This one hour does not include taxi, take-off and landing time." Lycoming Service Letter - https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/Engine%20Preservation%20for%20Active%20and%20Stored%20Aircraft.pdf From Aviation Consumer - " More than one tech told us that engines that are not operated in flight to normal operating temperatures at least once a week should be managed under some preservation or storage program to reduce the effects of corrosion. In our view, the ground running of an engine is not a substitute for flying it when it comes to dispelling moisture. Running it on the ground simply doesn’t get the engine hot enough, plus it tends to cause uneven heating at higher power, so you’re likely just wasting fuel doing so."

TSIO-360 will read low unless you let it sit overnight. It takes a while for the oil to drain down. Mine -SB is happy at 8 quarts. Strange that different engines are so different. IIRC FAA requirements are that the minimum allowed is no more than 1/2 the total capacity. So some engines have an artificially high total oil, that will not stay in the engine.

They kept me low all the way across the metroplex. Some minor tail wind. And I run around 63% power, LOP. So only burned about 70 gallons to do the trip. And I need the rigging checked. I think it is off after the upgrade of autopilot.

I was at my avionics shop yesterday, and while I was there, I mentioned that the amp displays (I have dual alternators) seemed to be displayed as load meters, but were reading like ammeters. That is, the display went from 0 up to some number, like a load meter. An ammeter normally has center 0 with + and - from there. He checked, and tweaked them, but it seems that in flight with my panel, the airplane is only drawing about 4 amps of current (28 volt system). And this is with lights on, but all of them are LED. So I have over 3 hours of battery life from my 13.6 amp-hour battery. Cool.

So many ways I hate Apple and their products. BUT......... I agree, it is stupid to not put the GPS chip in. They should be the same device except for the cellular circuits. Your choice. I just like having another back up.

I always thought it was an LOA (Letter of Authorization) for the warbirds that were never a Standard Airworthiness.

I may have to have my friend print me one of these. The only thing I would have done differently, is to offset the iPad to the right to almost touch the right yoke grip. That way more room for my fingers on the hand I fly with.

On my 252, you can see a film of fuel at the outboard filler at 25.0 gallons. If you try to "fill just the inboards" it will depend on how fast you fill over that 25 gallons, as at the point, fuel is moving into the outboard. Fairly slowly, but the slower you fill, the more fuel will move to the outboard. When I calibrated my dip sticks, I found that even after you are nearly full, there is still air bubbling out of the inboard when you add fuel to the last little bit. I managed to put 55 gallons in mine. Rated capacity is 52. And even that last gallon, you could hear the air. So the gauges don't miss a huge amount of fuel. As for senders, think about putting in Cies senders. VERY accurate.

I am trying to figure out how to repurpose them (86 M20K) to be Pitot Heat and Prop Heat lights. Low fuel is now handled by the G3X

Engine is a factory reman, about 300 hours. I finally got over the airport to check the oil, and in 9.2 hours, it burned about 1/2 a quart. That was 2.2 flying an IPC at the Mooney PPP, and 7.0 hour home at 17,000, non-stop. I did talk to Main Turbo and they recommended checking the oil scavenging with a simple test. Also suggested checking the waste gate. As for the position of the dipstick, the only way that really works in mine is with the finger loop towards the tail

Can't you use an hour of dual? The instructor demos a short XC to you as the PIC.

Since I posted that, I got a few messages, not public. All of them had bad things to say about Air Mods. I am just pointing out that their are mixed reports on them. Maybe they got their act back together. That would be wonderful.

Studies show that random is better. But I think synchronized looks better and that it what I did. I have the wingtip recog lights and they are set to wig wag with the landing light.

My plane came to me with an Aspen with AoA. I found it almost useless as it was a heads down device. I put an Alpha Eagle in with the new panel. I have a Sensorcon that is not in the airplane, but I may put it back as back up to the panel mount Guardian I installed.

Ok, just pointing out the issue. And you don't have to use a cell connection with a cell iPad. For a while, I used mine without a SIM and just used my phone as a wifi hotspot.

Just a few comments made over the past few years. But all shops are not perfect.