Pinecone

FYI, Mountain High has 10% off for Oshkosh. I am pretty sure it runs through the end of this week. I ordered an O2D2 last week

Since normally not far after Master On is Beacon On, maybe just leave the beacon on at all times. Let’s you know if you left the master on. And when you turn the master on, it tells people around that the airplane is probably getting ready to start. I would not leave strobes on while taxiing and parking as a habit. VERY annoying at night

Agreed that it doesn’t look structural. But that is going to REALLY mess up airflow. Nothing like flying an approach and finding out that the right wing has a stall speed about 5 knots about your approach speed.

And conversely, fill the mains to the top and see how long it takes for the level to stabilize across the main and aux.

The plane I just bought has an Aspen Pro PFD and a Garmin G5 backup. No vacuum instruments. I assume it still has a vacuum system for the speed brakes. I am trying to figure out if there is any need to keep the rest of the rounds gauges.

No. If you hold a Rotorcraft category rating, to add a lass rating, you only need to train to proficiency and get signed off for the test. You do not need to meet all theh aeronautic experience requirements for things like solo, XC, and night. Just like adding an SES or MEL to your ASEL. No XC, night or XC required. I did my SES in 5 hours, no solo, no night, no XC. So, if you got your PPL or CPL in Rotorcraft Gyroplane, adding on the same level Helicopter would not require any solo helicopter time. The Light Sport Gyro does not require a checkride. Just an endorsement by two different instructors.

It doesn't say that it only has to compromise the pilot's view FORWARD. But I get your point.

1) Have you priced insurance for a low time PPL with minimal complex time? 2) I recently bought, and ran into the same thing. Brokers who are not responsive and sellers that are less than motivated. One was getting an alternator replaced. That took a while, which I understand. Then, it sat for some 3 weeks before they moved it back to the home base to be able to be seen. And also refused a pre-purchase anywhere but their own hangar. You may just have to pass and keep looking. 3) I agree that that may not be airworthy.

OK, thanks. I am planning on calibrating two different versions of dipstick type devices. So, I will need to get to a point and wait a while for the fuel level to even out between main and aux. And calibrate for the main filler and aux filler. This will work in practice, as I will normally dip upon landing to double check how much to add, or before flying, after sitting for a while. Just have to make SURE to open and dip aux first and NOT open main fillers if above a certain aux dip. And since I am an engineer by degree, I will probably try starting with nearly empty tanks, fill the aux as quickly as the pump fills, and time how long it takes to drain into the mains.

Are there actually flapper valves between the aux and mains? So you can fill the mains and the aux tanks be empty (at least for a while)? If not, there would be 4 levels you could fuel to without a stick or gauges. Just enough to see fuel in the main fillers. Just enough to see fuel in the aux fillers. To the top for the main filler. And full up.

Each unit should have a life limit from first use in the instructions. Home units these days typically have 5 or 7 year sensor life. I suggest putting the CO monitor replacement (or sensor replacement) in your list of time related service requirements. For home units, I suggest writing the replacement date on the unit with a Sharpie.

LED lights have power supplies in them. So, they can be designed to allow a wide range of input voltages.

A friend took his Tiger to a shop for annual. And, AFAIK, he never got the plane back. As I understand it, the shop disassembled it significantly, then something like a year later, a hurricane hit and pretty much destroyed the shop. But we were talking about pre-purchase, not annuals or broken airplanes. I wonder at what point just filing an insurance claim and letting them handle the issue makes sense.

The problem with Com 2 would be if you transmitted on it with the handheld plugged in. A smart way to do this would be to route Com 2 to a dummy load (resistor) when the hand held is plugged in to avoid damage.

Hmm, from the attached list, tinting the windows needs an STC. 8. Tinting of windows and windshields with transparent vinyl, which compromises the view of pilots.

Or ASES to ASEL.

Just need to add a Max Pulse - https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/1105737_stc.php Wondering if the way to set it up is to put the recognition lights as A and the taxi light as B to flash the recog lights together and opposite the taxi light.

And smartly, they do not want to invest in additional production capacity that will not be needed in a few months.

That is a different issue. I am saying only that there should be no way for the PP shop to hold an airplane hostage.

Well, in my defense, I did not buy the airplane until the oil filter shortage was in full swing. I do have at least 3 oil filters for each car and a case or two of oil for each.

Those would be A&P work, son=lay need to signed off as done correctly. Not IA that needs to be certified airworthy.

I understand that it makes no sense to do so. But to be legal, you need to do so. However, not sure if anyone could tell after the fact.

You also don't need the night or other requirements. You could do it without soloing even.

Yes, LOP operation will reduce the production of CO. CO is produced when there is combustion without sufficient oxygen to fully burn all the fuel to end up with only H2O and CO2. LOP is running excess air (O2) to ensure complete combustion of the fuel. BTW, CO is flammable, so yes, it does get combusted. My point was, 1000 is the range of thinking about shutting the engine off. 2000, you probably will not be conscious to do anything. As mentioned, open outside vents, reduce power, lean VERY aggressively, and LAND NOW.

Based on the specs posted, there is no way for them to get very hot. They only draw 3 watts.