RoundTwo

The ordered repository is the real value to me. Without this infrastructure, the pictures are left on my phone without any labels or any identifying information. Now, I could build folders in Google photos and label individual pictures, but then I’m nowhere ahead of what they’re offering here. So for being a free image repository, I’m thumbs up for it. I am hopeful that this is the start of something like the FEVA, so getting a large data sample is necessary to begin building out a baseline.

What I got the most out of was the video and coming up with a consistent system for images. I will admit I need work on getting the suggested orientation for valve seat pictures, but having a plan is a start.

I geeked out with my 41 and had the card reader and printer as well. I’ll check out the emulator, but I’ll admit that my RPN skills are pretty much gone. If only they could emulate the way the keys felt.

Wow, that brings back some memories but you’re running the turbo version. I had the CV back in ‘82. It got to be a pain sending it home to Corvallis when the screen would start to bleed. No one ever made keys that felt as good as HP did. I also had a 15C, but that died a slow death when the button cell batteries died and leaked their juice. It was a sad day.

Kudos to Mike Busch for expanding Savvy Analysis to include a convenient place to upload and store cylinder borescope images. They will also perform image analysis for a fee, but having a convenient place to archive images will be helpful. Savvy Borescope Inspection Image How To’s

GP isn’t as fancy but does give a report.

Cabin heat isn’t anything I seem to have to worry about. Once I get the cowl flaps closed, the cabin heat will run you out of the cabin. My usual setting is one or two clicks out and then I also mix in a good bit of cabin vent to cool that off. Every now and then, I’ll open it wide just after takeoff, but not for long.

While this picture isn’t specifically of the Aera 760, it does show its placement. It is mounted to a MyGoFlight bolted panel mount on the blank panel in front of the copilot. It’s connected with their GPS adapted bolted to the 760 cradle. This location was chosen because the panel mount was already installed in the plane for using an iPad. The Aera is used mostly by my wife for traffic and weather display because it is hard wired to the transponder. It’s also listening to the GTN, so it gets FP updates and draws all of the curved routes for holds and approaches, just like on the other displays. In its standard location it’s not very handy as a planning device, but if needed for that, it easily pops out of the cradle. So far, I’ve never felt a need to do that since I fly with an iPad on my lap running GP. All things considered, the integration between all the devices works flawlessly. Non-pilot passengers love having their own “busy box” to look at anything they want. If they want to fly, I simply use the BT connection to the G3X so it can get AHRS information and use its synthetic vision to get them their own mini-PFD.

I installed the Aera 760 on a fixed MyGoFlight swivel mount in front of the passenger. It is hardwired to the GTN (MapMX) format so it receives all of the curved tracks for showing holds and turns of the flight plan. It’s also hardwired to the GTX for all the ADS-B goodies. I used its Bluetooth connection to the G3x for AHRS information so the synthetic vision makes a good enough PFD panel for a right seat pilot. There are of course some differences in the displayed data, but it’s good enough for someone to follow the magenta line without having to look across the cockpit.

I just did this in July. The trickiest part is separating the two headliner pieces. There are about 4 screws connecting the front section with the rear. The screw heads face the windscreen, so you come at them from over the top of the lowered headliner and as soon as they’re out, both pieces easily come out through the front door.

Good points. I neglected to think about the quantities contained in external volumes. Regarding the filter purge, I like to use a nice sharp awl with a wider taper to make a clean dimple. I use a rubber tipped air gun set for less than standard oil pressure as I’ve heard bad things about hitting it with full on shop pressure.

It might help if you would mention the year and model.

On the oil change topic, what is the group think regarding how long to let the oil drain after removing the filter? Last oil change, I came in from a flight and opened up everything and drained the oil while it was still hot. I punched an oil in the filter and used an air nozzle to clear out as much oil out of the filter as possible. I removed the filter and then finagled a cup under the filter adapter and left it overnight. I was surprised to return a day later and find about 8 oz of oil in the cup. I also let it drain from the suction screen hole. Does anyone else let the galleys and passages drain out overnight? I know it doesn’t make any real measurable difference in the dilution ratio of new oil to old, but i was still surprised to get that much more out.

I’ve got 205MM reserved. So far, that’s the best I’ve been able to secure. Another option is to find a “controller acceptable” substitute for SIERRA SIERRA. Some controllers are a bit more serious about it than others. I haven’t had the testicular fortitude yet to try out something like SUPER SEXY, SUPER STUD, SUPER SPEEDY on great tailwind days, or SUPER SLOW on bad headwind days. Chuck

I love the creativity of your ideas.

The problem using foil tape is how easily it tears as there is ZERO strength. Also when you get a piece of foil stuck in the wrong position, which WILL happen, it’s impossible to fix and you’ll just have to add another layer. Duct tape is the best solution for sealing up the gaps and holes.

3M strip caulk found in the Aviation aisle at auto parts store. It used to be dirt cheap, but not anymore. 3M Strip Caulk at Amazon

Great budget friendly idea.

If anyone has an old 720 ch com head collecting dust on a hangar shelf, I’d be willing to give it a new shelf to live on. I’m looking to put a CTAF radio in my hangar. If you’ve got one, please feel free to reach out. Merry Christmas, Chuck

I wasn’t aware of that trainer, I was only familiar with the GTN trainer.

How are you enabling GS on the trainer?

I’m running a very similar set up as @Marc B, with G3X, G5, GTN750, GFC500, so I’m going to try this out. The issue I see is when I load and activate a DME arc ILS approach in GP or the GTN trainer, is that the first altitude constraint is the IAF on the LOC, not the beginning of the arc. Knowing this now, I would probably add an along track WPT, before the IAF at the beginning of the arc, to get VNAV out of the way before becoming established on the arc. Next time I’m out, I’ll run over to KGAD for the ILS 24 to try this out IRL.

Exactly! I’m sure you’ll get yours figured out as well. Hopefully it will be easily identified as a crapped out part that can be quickly replaced.

You have now used up your one complimentary “freebie”. Enjoy the ride.

That was the general consensus as well, but I sent my regulator out for testing and it came back fine. I took the long way intentionally to illustrate that these electrical gremlins are tough to figure out and solving the problem is usually a lot more involved than just replacing a part. I’m sure my problem is unique to my plane, but someone had moved the sense wire and butt spliced it into the annunciator panel power wire. Moving it back to the correct breaker on the panel cleared up the problem.