RoundTwo

Last year Turbo had a great time meeting all of the Mooniacs at the Lexington PPP. This year he wants to go south, so we’ll be headed to Ocala in January. Hopefully we can get some MS name badges set up so it’s easier to figure out who the MS’ers are.

Check pin 9 for ground and pins 7 and 2 for voltage from circuit breakers. That will tell you which direction you need to go next.

There are daily shuttles running several times a day between Chattanooga and Hartsfield, right down I-75. Cole is in Dalton, right on 75 and getting something arranged to be picked up/dropped off shouldn’t be too much of a problem. Additionally, there are several of us Mooney drivers close to Dalton that might be persuaded to shuttle you between endpoints.

On my J, there are two fuses on the bottom of the dimmer box. Most likely you don’t have a wiring problem, but a problem with, or within, your dimmer. As a side note, Daylight Saving Time (DST) ended last Sunday, so in actuality, Standard Time is upon us. I’m also very envious that you have such a clearly legible wiring diagram.

Spotted on the ramp at Pensacola aviation center. Did these two beauties belong to anybody here?

So when it was time to put the glareshield back in, I vowed to be methodical about it and figure out how Mooney intended it to be done, because it was just too difficult the way I was doing it before. It turns out, the “secret” is to come in from as close to the ceiling, and as parallel to the front post as possible. When I held the pilot side of the glareshield right up against the headliner, it easily slipped over the center post and slid in without much issue at all. That was much easier than what I went through before.

Just saw this on FB

My ‘88J had the hour meter located in the console, down by the copilot’s calf. When the new panel was done, the electronic tach was lost and the hour meter was then switched over to come on with the master switch. I have since had that hour meter removed and now use the times that the JPI keeps for maintenance purposes.

After messing with this glareshield and experiencing the difficulties I have, I definitely understand why the design was changed.

Since owning my J, I have removed the glareshield several times, but I don’t feel like I’ve ever figured out the best way to do it. The problem I run into is the cut out around the center post has broken a section of the glare shield, and it was this way before I bought the plane, and I have to be imagine there’s a better way to do it to protect this area, and just make it an easier task overall. And I have to imagine there’s a better way to do it to protect this area, and just make it an easier task overall. Is there a specific way to flex the halves to avoid any more damage? as a note, all of the interior panels have been removed, so those don’t get in the way and the only thing left is the aluminum structure. Any help would be appreciated. As a note, all of the interior panels have been removed, so those don’t get in the way and the only thing left is the aluminum structure. Any help would be appreciated. Chuck

If you look on flightaware.com, there is a link to purchase entire flight history. If you click on that link, it won’t show you individual flights, but it will show you a breakdown by year of how many flights are recorded. For this plane, you will see that there is data for 23 and for 21, but nothing for 2022. It’s not specific information, but it will give you a rough idea of past history on flight activity.

Because I’m cheap and don’t want to spend $100 for a $10 fan.

Soldering isn’t great in airplanes due to vibration induced fatigue, but I had no other option. I then supported the wires together with a small blob of RTV to reduce effects of vibration.

That’s it, and at $61, very affordable. Thank you.

Repair is definitely the next step if an affordable replacement isn’t possible. I have a sheet of the same interior ABS I can use for stiffening.

Our GA engine don’t usually wear out, they usually rust out from lack of use. If this plane has as little flying time as appears, my fear is that the engine is most likely toast. Time wise, an overhaul is a very long process now due to parts availability and a factory rebuild is much quicker, but you’d probably be looking at $60k-$70k for the engine plus R&R labor.

I think the Savvy services work great for some and not as great for others. Aircraft owners run the gamut on knowledge and mechanical abilities, so it goes without saying that the less knowledgeable owners have more to benefit from an advisory service. I tried Savvy pre buy last year but for me, it wasn’t a good fit. I am very happy with Savvy Analysis.

I’m searching for the plastic Z-RAIL that attaches behind the rear seats and has a lip that slips under the baggage area carpet. Mine is almost cut into three pieces because the rear seat recline limiting bolts had broken off and the seats were “over-reclined”, cutting through the forward facing portion of this strip. Chuck

This isn’t proof of anything, but it’s a great conversation starter.

If you plan on hardwiring the Aera 760 into the 650 or 750, check ahead on available RS-232 protocols. I found out the hard way that my 750 can only have 1 MAP MX serial connection, and it’s using that to talk to the G3X. So much for the Aera receiving flight plan updates for the right seater.

And have you seen those tiny contacts? I believe there are only 5 conductors in those wires. Extremely tiny.

Has anyone found one of these recently? Avnet is out of stock. Mine has a broken wire and so far, depinning the connector hasn’t been successful.

Is that a calculated empty weight, or was the plane weighed?

Gorgeous plane but he bought it in 2006 with 627 hours and 17+ years later it has only gained 183 hours on the clock. The UL isn’t great, as is common with 252’s, but I wonder what she’d actually weigh after the rich upgrades.

Biggest problem is the pilot’s vent window gasket tearing. That gasket is cheap insurance to prevent water intrusion.