haymak3r

Hang in there! It took 5 months to get my gtn750xi, g5's, and gi-275EIS installed... Of course I was told 3 weeks when dropping the plane off for everything except the gtn. But then the gtn came early.. So things changed.

I have a tach for sale too. from a 79 J Not sure how compatible they are. It is definitely mechanical.

Are you calling me a relic???

I grab center tube, and stand up and out the door while taking a step on the co-pilot floor and then step out on to the wing. Definitely WAY easier getting out on the pilot side. I never even touch the co-pilot seat.

Not sure I understand. Cabin heat comes directly from the exhaust shroud. And yes, in flight, if I put my hand down by the vent it is pretty hot. my fuel selector also is pretty hot to touch too as it is right in front of the vent.

Excellent

You can DM me too if you have any more questions. I don't mind at all.

You can buy a gaming pc yes. I have built my own systems for a couple decades, so don't buy pre-built systems. If buying one, and if you want to utilize VR, I would suggest something with 64 GB of ram, and a 4000 series Nvidia RTX graphics card. The HP Reverb G2, in my opinion, is one of the best VR headsets that is out there. I don't particularly like "Meta" so do not suggest oculus vr hmd's. Though I have an oculus rift 1 and 2.. There are better out there than the G2, but are way more expensive. Most all HMD's have built in speakers and a mic, so you wouldn't necessarily need anything else. Though I use a logitech g933 headset. I currently use the saitek pro yoke/throttle, and the saitek pro rudder pedals. I've had them for years. VR is Virtual Reality. I cannot play any sim type games on 2d panels anymore. You definitely can start out using a monitor though. Here are a couple links for the items I've mentioned: VR HMD(Head Mounted Display) https://www.amazon.com/HP-Virtual-Reality-Headset-Version/dp/B09Z6L3SWM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hp+reverb+g2&qid=1676309858&sprefix=hp+reverb%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.ac2169a1-b668-44b9-8bd0-5ec63b24bcb5 You could also do something like this with your monitor. Head tracking is very nice to have with sims: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029M6VKA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0029M6VKA&linkCode=as2&tag=growlingsidew-20&linkId=738eceb6a6c4fab49b8ad6784c29f783 I highly suggest something along these lines for yoke/throttle/rudder pedals: https://www.amazon.com/Honeycomb-Controls-Aeronautical-Throttle-Quadrant/dp/B09MDCYDW3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=28L7QV5G320CV&keywords=honeycomb+yoke&qid=1676309974&sprefix=honeycomb+yok%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.ac2169a1-b668-44b9-8bd0-5ec63b24bcb5 https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-VelocityOne-Universal-Control-Windows-x/dp/B09JM8SX8G/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=turtle+beach+velocity+one+flight+controller&qid=1676310064&sprefix=turtle+beach+%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Pro-Flight-Rudder-Pedals/dp/B07R21FJD8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1N86WK5WYAM12&keywords=rudder+pedals&qid=1676310015&sprefix=rudder+pedal%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840 https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A02716314BONC7N1HYIU&qualifier=1676310015&id=2364353740111150&widgetName=sp_atf&url=%2FVelocityOne-Universal-Windows-Featuring-Adjustable-PC%2Fdp%2FB0B7NTLKF2%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fcrid%3D1N86WK5WYAM12%26keywords%3Drudder%2Bpedals%26qid%3D1676310015%26sprefix%3Drudder%2Bpedal%2Caps%2C155%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1 For a PC, I follow a youtuber that plays a game called DCS, and has advertised this brand for gaming pc's. You could start here in your research, but again I definitely suggest 64 GB of ram, and a 4000 series RTX card. I have an nvidia rtx3080, and it is not quite good enough to have good graphics with smooth game play. https://apexgamingpcs.com/products/growling-sidewinder?variant=41080480006325 The variables involved with building a simulator are large. Also, the flight controls can be purchased from sporty's or pilotmall, or some other aviation supply place too. This can be pretty daunting to setup. Perhaps somebody local to you could help you determine the best setup for you?

I believe the op's picture is from the center pedestal. Not from the airframe side.

I've been using simulators for years. Starting with fs5.1 back in the early 90's. I currently have fs2020 and use VR with an hp reverb g2. I would suggest getting a honeycomb yoke at the very least as my saitek yoke isn't the greatest. Additionally, I am on pilotedge. It's 20 bucks a month, but you get to talk to real controllers, and so the comms are real life. As an instrument student, getting to practice approaches and clearances like this have been amazing. I highly recommend it. As for needing an actual ATD? I am on the fence. You can get a REALLY nice computer for far less that get's you basically everything you get with an ATD, except for getting to log the time. Good luck! Chris

makes sense. I will have this fixed in a couple months during annual. I want to replace the last fuel line, and the upper oil cooler line as I feel they need it. So will get a new line for the transducer too. Thanks for the pointers! I super appreciate it!

Interesting, this was during the install of a gi-275 and I don't recall if it was in the install manual to do it that way? But I could fix this if needed as well. Thank you so much!!

OH my goodness! So sorry. Aside from the oil filter safety wire. I was aware of the other stuff. the picture was from when I was having some major avionics work done. So they were working on getting all the new engine sensors in through the firewall from that plug. It is all properly sealed up, and tight currently The safety wire from the filter is a new one for me. That is how it has been since I bought it. It makes total sense, and I will take care of that as soon as I am able. Can you suggest a good spot to tie it to? Thanks for the keen observations!

for what it's worth:

Wait. What is this? My feet get pretty cold as well at altitude. You're saying there is a potential vent down there somewhere on J models too?

Originally, I was thinking this number was not put in to my config, and that's why I didn't have the %power at all. But it's the OAT senser. Once that is installed, then I should be good to go. Cheers!

Thanks. Once I get the oat sensor installed, I'll start seeing about how close it is based off my poh.. If it is 1-5% off to me that is good enough. I really want to just make sure that I am not leaning above the 75% range. More of a safety factor than anything else. I fly fairly low sometimes while training, and so I can easily be above 75% even with some power pulled. As time goes on, I am sure I'll be able to remember more power settings with altitudes to know when it is safe to really lean out or not. But that time has not come yet haha.

Like was already said.. We've all been where you are now. I was just a year ago. After sitting in an M20C, and really researching what I wanted. I fell in to an m20J. I finished my PPL in it, and am getting my instrument rating in it right now. I think a mid body is what you're after. I have a family of 4, with one lengthy teenager, and a slightly shorter almost teenager. They fit just fine in the back seat, and as a family I don't think I could really have gotten anything better. We can load up, and as long as we don't bring the kitchen sink, we can still fill the tanks up. (BARELY) if my waist grows anymore, then that may start changing hahaha... For your mission in the mountains though, a K model may be the best choice. OH, insurance was mentioned. As a student, holy crap it was expensive.. as a low time pilot, it's still not great, but half of what it was. There weren't that many insurers out there for us, so most likely you'll be looking at around 3-5k just for insurance every year. My first annual was 2400, with me helping. But we knew there were some things that were uhh neglected that were not airworthy items, but things I wanted fixed/cleaned/etc. Hopefully this helps a little. Good Luck!!! And welcome to the group if you stick around!!!!!! -Chris

Thanks! Definitely leaning towards doing the interior with local supervision. Super envious right now hahaha

Did you do the interior yourself? Or have somebody else. It looks like jaeger aviation spatial interior. Been curious about it, as I need to tackle my interior at some point Plane looks great!!!

I checked the config, and I had a BSFC listed already. It was set at .38, so basically what I was going to use.. I am missing OAT. That's the problem. I need to have my avionics guy connect the g5 to the gi-275 I think, to get the 275 OAT. Wish this was done during install.

I wanted to follow up on my test approach. I can confirm that switching from gpss to approach mode prior to the FAF is the correct method with my setup. Once in APR mode, I saw GS on the AP annunciator, and once on the GP, the plane started descending. I stayed under the hood all the way to mins in a nice stable approach even with a slight cross wind. I have taken note of this new procedure. Cheers!

Ok. I waited the hour and spoke to garmin... The calculation wants a bsfc of best power at normal cruise altitude to be provided. As with anything from a support org, I will take that with skepticism, and test test test. And with that knowledge I will have .3775 put in. And see if the % power field shows up. Cheers!

Completely agree, and have read that before too, which is why I am not fully understanding how this plays in to that % power representation. For the numbers above. It is not 100% power, rather in the poh, sea level at econ cruise yields 75% power, and at 10k, it is 70% power. I may go with the sea level best power number of .5525, and then if the % power number shows up on the display, I will pull power, and note the % power versus what the book says I should be at for that given power setting. Thoughts on further adjusting the number to match what the book says? I sort of feel that the numbers in the poh may not be as accurate as real world power. Maybe closer if the engine were 'fresh'.. but at least it's a starting point I suppose.

Thanks. I see now that this was easier than I was making it out to be, lol. From my POH, at sea level, best power gives me 110.5 lbs/hr for fuel flow. This gives me a bsfc of .5525. But, you're saying I would be better off using a lean cruise power setting? Would I want to use the economy cruise @ sea level numbers? Or use and actual cruise alt that I normally cruise at. Sea level would yield = .325 Cruise at 10k = .3075 Thanks, Chris