trevttu76

Lubbock Executive on the South East side of town is easy to work with and is a GA airport. New owners, and they have made improvements. I believe it is called ClearTech Aviation now. F82 is the identifier. Has been a while since I flew into LBB, so no PIREP there. Suppose it depends on what side of town you will be spending time.

I also vote for Tradewinds in Amarillo (KTDW). I flew in there recently and had a great experience; restaurant onsite and clean nice and friendly FBO. It is under the Class C and can be tight if you are not talking to approach, but no biggie.

Grand Praire or Arlington Municipal are closest and both are GA friendly. I've been based at both. Holler if you need any more info.

Those shark fin antennas on the belly are typically one of the following; either a DME, or transponder antennas. Do you have more than one? If not, then assume it is transponder.

I was able to find two log entries where the VR was replaced. The last change has the model number (1st did not). I have a VR-415F, a Lamar unit!! Mystery solved. Thanks for the input here. Maybe the pic and model number will help someone else in the future. Still need to check voltage at a few suggested locations (battery and/or alternator). My digital cigarette lighter readout and engine monitor match, but as pointed out do not show what the battery is seeing.

Figured it would make sense to start a thread on this instead of piggybacking on another thread and being off topic. Curious if this is my voltage regulator, and if so can anyone identify the model and say if it's adjustable or not (and where is the adjustment screw). My voltage is mid 13's (13.6 usually), but would really like to get closer to 14V for my Concord RG per the documentation for the battery. Doesn't feel like I am keeping my battery fully charged. This is mounted along a plate perpendicular to the firewall close to the glare shield (co-pilot side).

I have an ipad Air, so similar size that is mounted on the right side panel above the co-pilot yoke area. When I updated my panel, I kept the right side empty for that reason. It takes up all the height from under the glare shield brow and leaves about an inch above the yoke shaft. It is angled towards the pilot a bit, and works great. Unless you have that area do the panel clear, an iPad this large won't work well anywhere. The RPM and MAP are both on the EI 830, so no worries it being blocked a bit. I had a bit of a headwind that day... I use a mini on the pilot yoke. (this iPad Air 2 is for sale if anyone is interested. I got a new one is the reason.)

That is where I have my USP port. I don't have the phono plugs, so the USB and suction fit nicely next to each other. See attached pic. I don't typically leave anything plugged in to the port, just use it when flying long cross countries to keep things charged. I have a separate USB charger plugged in the the cigarette lighter that stays there full time and is connected to charger cables for my iPads and cables are ziptied out of the way.

Is this the VR? This is mounted along a plate perpendicular to the firewall close to the glare shield (co-pilot side). If so, does anyone recognize the model and know if there is an adjustment to raise the voltage a bit.?? My voltage is consistent, but mid 13's, would like to get it closer to 14V for my Concord RG.

I know this is an old thread, but got me thinking I see similar issues. Where is the voltage regulator box in a J model? I have a 1978 to be exact. I can't recall seeing it under the panel...

on my 12V '78 J model the bulb is CM 7330. AML 7382 seems to be the same bulb. I have not found an LED replacement, but also would be interested in that option.

My '78 J did not have one when I purchased it. It was removed, but thankfully in a box given to me upon purchase of the plane. I assume it was done to increase speed. It was removed "correctly" with clean riveting the hole; good news is that if I decide to re-install it would be very easy. Of course, I guess I could sell it (although not wanting to do that at this time). I built a set of heavy wooden steps that I leave in my hangar to allow easy on/off the wingwalk. The height of the top step is below the flap and anything I could hit when backing into the hangar. I leave the steps there 100% of the time, just have to slide them a few inches depending on how I did putting the plane in the hangar. I also have a very light and small step I keep in the baggage compartment at all times. Not so much for me, but any passengers who might need a hand. I too fell once getting out and stepping down. My hands were full and the step I had on the ground (my old small plastic) slid our from me. iPad, drink, and myself all went flying. Hurt like heck and I don't know how only a chipped iPad edge was the only damage, that and me ego. Never step down without grabbing the baggage handle for stability... This also explains the upgraded heavy wood steps I have now.

There is an air mixing box behind the panel there; I don't have mine covered so it's visible. There are ports that dump air at your feet, and also send to the cabin.

I used an existing DME antenna and ran that to a splitter and fed both Stratus radios. Both radios fall into the frequency spectrum of the DME receive spectrum. Yes, using a splitter degrades the signal a bit, but having an external antenna on the belly more than makes up for the splitter. I have amazing reception for WX and traffic; way more than when I used separate whip antennas in the cabin. Also use a GPS puck (magnetic back) on the center of the glare shield and cable run through the avionics bay. I "mounted" my Stratux with zip ties under the co-pilot panel so its out of the way but accessible if needed. Important to make the SD card accessible primarily. Very clean install with amazing results; you would never know it's installed. I have a Garmin 375 GPS, so the Stratux is my backup and it plays well with all EFB's.

I finished this part of my project, and to be honest it was not as bad as I assumed. I ended up replacing all 4 of my existing with new ones from plane plastic. The fit was fine, but I was not 100% happy with the design on their replacements. The "holes" that direct the air in the new plastic louvers point in opposite directions (factory all direct air the same direction). Since the front vents need all the air focused to cool the passengers, this isn't optimal... Other than that the quality and durability/flex of the new ones is good. Of course for $50 each I would have hoped for a better design or match to the OEM. If someone is hesitating tackling this, don't sweat it. I would however plan on replacing any louvers you remove , I don't think the old fragile vents would survive removal and re-assembly as there is some flexing in the process. Thanks for the tips in this thread, made the unknown a little better.

I have one like that I would part with. Send me a message and I'll send you a picture. (Need to take a pic tomorrow)

Agreed, those are super thick heavy duty cables. I did not use something that thick, but I don't recall the gauge. Easy to coil for storage and light to carry.

Similar to the yellow device above; I bought this and then attached a set of cheap cables. The booster cables are soldered into the end permanently. This way I don't have to worry about finding someone with cables. It is light/small and I keep it in my plane at all times. All in (this part and cables) was about $75. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/jumperplug.php?clickkey=51945 Alternative #2 is buying this same setup already made for you; cost is $180. My setup is exactly the same for $100 less... https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/jumpercablesplugs_cables/jumpercables.php

Haha, yes the color is special. Previous owner did a full replacement in the 90's, so the condition of the interior is really good. This is also a good reminder of the need to pick more "timeless" colors for interior rehab. Unless of course you want to go through this he** every 10 years.

It's amazing how true the term "project creep" is when you get into something. I am re-doing my interior. The door lock was staring me in the face this weekend and I was wondering if I should replace it while the panel is off. What's another $150/$200.... Added insulation, windlace replace (ugh), panel replace/repair, run wire to tail for strobe later, new placards, paint good panels to match new panels, add retract shoulder, etc.... Now the glare shield will now look bad, when it was once the nicest part of the interior. Curious also how easy the install goes. With all this extra work, I would want a straight forward option.

I am struggling with the circuit breaker avionics panel portion on my 78 J model. What is the process there? I was contemplating cutting it out and abandoning that small section.... Also, trying to find the best place to buy the windlace and I assume the rubber trim that is sandwiched on the main door with the windlace. (Pic shows my groovy wine colored lace and the white trim piece). I think I will replace all the white trim pieces on the rehab project.

I am shopping for windlace to do the same project. I see Airtex and Jeager both offer. Is there a better place to get this? Yours looks like great quality. Also, what did you do on the avionics panel side? Appears there are a few screws behind the avionics that I have no idea how to get to and remove... Mine is a '78 J, the OP might be a different year. Anyone else have a trick for that part of the install?

I have Champion 48108 and 48109 available if that works for anyone. Should have some Tempest 448103 soon.

I tackled this project and it wasn't so bad. I replaced with LED, and couldn't be happier. Would 100% say only go back with LED, you don't want to have to do it again. The worst part of the of the job is taking the belly panel off. I will go ahead and say, its the most front one...I started at the wrong end of the belly panels. Thanks for the hints from this group.

Don't mean to hijack the thread. Similar situation for me. Looking for a Ci-196 if anyone has one available... (Pic isn't of mine, just representative for hole position)