lithium366

@Matthew P I am joining the list. My gear is Ok but I want this initiative going

Does anyone know a cheap mail-in metal analysis service or have an XRF analyzer? I want to send aileron center link spacers for metal identification (Lasar is out of stock for a while) to cut them out from proper material

That’s not too bad at all to my eye.

Thanks, this fixed my problem, switch was sticking

Do we know dimensions? I can create a cad file if dimensions known

Anyone know where to source parts in 2024? Lazar is out of stock but when they do these washers are $120 each

@prillayo03 is a scammer. Gave me a “seller gmail” in DM and insisted on friends and family payment even when I offered to cover purchase fees. 0 posts, closed all “recent activity” statuses and recently joined and stolen paypal account. All red flags

To clean gear limit switches with electrical cleaner do I try to spray inside from the button end or I have to somehow disassemble switch?

Reviving old thread: does anyone want to sell a used M20-144 kit for a reasonable price?

For reference my oil temp today was 228 in climb, 215-220 in cruise and got down to 196 at shutdown and 208 in the pattern. 100 degrees OAT. I try to lean very aggressively for taxi and during descent

How much down? Mine are still in 210-ish. To me it sounds like if your oil temps affected by an airflow while descending at increased airspeeds then oil cooler is doing it’s job well

I have the same oil cooler and was convienced that in high pressure systems such as oil lines and oil cooler - there are different physics in play and air getting purged on it’s own (apparently oil vigorously entering an oil cooler is kinda foaming and carrying bubbles of air away). You can buy an IR camera for your phone on Amazon and walk with it around an airplane, look at the oil cooler and lines - very useful

Yep so you see that flat area at 185 - this is due to vernatherm opening and colder oil from hoses and oil cooler mix with hot oil, delaying further oil temp raise. When you have issues with vernatherm, hoses or oil cooer (like I do) that flat area is non existent or very small for me it looks like your vernatherm is functioning well and problem is something else

Oh I see, thanks for pointing out, I double checked and I have correct one

Both

Can you clarify what is the pressure housing gasket and how it relates to oil temp?

Both vernatherms I have Lycoming and Superior stamped 85 C. That’s 185F and that’s about the temperature they “mostly” closed. They continue to expand at a much slower rate until water boiling temp. It’s interesting Lycoming mentions other temps I sent oil cooler to overhaul during engine overhaul, it’s hot to touch after flight but perharps vernatherm only partially open allowing temps to go up

Cyl temps are normal, I checked inter-cylinder baffling. I am convinced the issue is vernatherm / seating - you can see a light going thru the seat. That should be fully closed?

To my knowledge vernatherm should fully open 180-190 degrees so you oil doesn’t get hot Savvy also thinks it’s a vernatherm issue based on data they see (oil temp flat is too short when vernatherm opens up)

After an overhaul I have 220-230 oil temp. Removed oil filter adapter and tested brand new vernatherm - doesn’t fully close when boiled together with oil filter adapter. Same with old vernatherm that worked perfectly before overhaul (it has a nice ring indentation indicating it worked previously). Both open up a bit less than 1/4 inch. Same with another brand new oil filter adapter. Now I am scratching my head, 2 vernatherm, 2 oil filter adapters - what’s wrong? There is also one washer installed between vernatherm and oil filter adapter Q: is washer between vernatherm and oil filter adapter required? Removal would solve the issue Q: any potential gotchas testing vernatherm in water vs oil? Curious if oil provides some additional qualities that help vernatherm open up?

This is on my list to do. Something I noticed that vernatherm gasket seem to be thicker than the one I previously had, I am thinking of taking an entire oil filter adapter with vernatherm and throwing it into a hot water monitoring temps and how it seated and how it closes. Open to any better ideas tho

Thank you for the report. How long ago dis you send it to them and how long was a turnaround?

How can I effectively block intake that way? I would think, duct tape on the cowling side will not still have some leks from alternate air? Still need to remove lower cowling? Also a bit confused about both valves open, when would that happen?

Interesting. I had to replace intake pipes (bought used ones) due to sandblasting shop messed up with mine trying to remove chrome, maybe it is bowed as you said

Yeah, I submitted my files for them to analyze they confirmed looks like an induction leak