lithium366

After an overhaul I have 220-230 oil temp. Removed oil filter adapter and tested brand new vernatherm - doesn’t fully close when boiled together with oil filter adapter. Same with old vernatherm that worked perfectly before overhaul (it has a nice ring indentation indicating it worked previously). Both open up a bit less than 1/4 inch. Same with another brand new oil filter adapter. Now I am scratching my head, 2 vernatherm, 2 oil filter adapters - what’s wrong? There is also one washer installed between vernatherm and oil filter adapter Q: is washer between vernatherm and oil filter adapter required? Removal would solve the issue Q: any potential gotchas testing vernatherm in water vs oil? Curious if oil provides some additional qualities that help vernatherm open up?

This is on my list to do. Something I noticed that vernatherm gasket seem to be thicker than the one I previously had, I am thinking of taking an entire oil filter adapter with vernatherm and throwing it into a hot water monitoring temps and how it seated and how it closes. Open to any better ideas tho

Thank you for the report. How long ago dis you send it to them and how long was a turnaround?

How can I effectively block intake that way? I would think, duct tape on the cowling side will not still have some leks from alternate air? Still need to remove lower cowling? Also a bit confused about both valves open, when would that happen?

Interesting. I had to replace intake pipes (bought used ones) due to sandblasting shop messed up with mine trying to remove chrome, maybe it is bowed as you said

Yeah, I submitted my files for them to analyze they confirmed looks like an induction leak

Where would I connect vacuum to and how y’all sealing it to the intake? I wiuld imaging I will have to drop lower cowling first to somehow ductape into the fuel flow servo?

When I reached out to PCU they didn’t suggest me an option to send it back, they just said something like your engine after an overhaul has more power now and your prop might not be able to catch up quickly with governor. Curious how you convinced them to take a look at yours

Matt, I think I might be lacking some terminology, where this gasket is installed? Is it the one between governor and governor adaptor with a mesh screen in it? intake leak - #1 EGT is higher than other cylinders on low RPMs but equalizes on high RPMs. I would think this is a classic symptom of an induction leak since the difference in EGT is likely due to the difference in manifold and ambient pressure

Okay so I did a supervised overhaul with my A&P due to cam being worn on #4. Engine now has 8 hours but there are some persistent issues I am seeing, curious if I can use your brains. 1966 Mooney M20E, IO-360-A1A 1. Brand new PCU-5000 governor was installed during overhaul (old governor was contaminated and unrepairable). Before overhaul prop did not overspeed, after overhaul it is kinda lagging going into 2750-2780 and then coming back at 2700 limit. I also see RPM fluctuations in bumps, and while transition to a climb and descent. Propeller is a 3 blades hartzell installed new in 2000 and never overhauled (960 hours on prop). Some suggest to overhaul prop in case there is friction there but curious what other think 2. Oil cooler is cold to touch. Oil cooler was overhauled and flushed. Not like cold but more like ambient temperature. It should be hot on temps above 185 when vernatherm opens? Wondering if it is working. Brand new vernatherm was also installed during overhaul. Oil temps are in 230-235 in cruse but I don’t pay much attention to oil temp yet since I only 8 hours on overhauled cylinders 3. #1 induction leak. Small RPM - 150 degrees higher EGT than other cylinders, cruise RPM - same EGT as others. I replaced rubber seal and used gasket maker on the paper gasket. Re-did this twice, #1 still has the same induction leak. Where else it can leak from? New injector nozzles with nearly equal flow. fuel flow divider was overhauled as well (I thought maybe below 8gph fuel flow divider can fake induction leak by spraying less fuel than at higher fuel flows when it no longer controls fuel)

I am looking for baffle pieces in pristine condition for my 1966E (dog house). Mostly interested in front 3-piece part that hugs 1-2 cylinders, generator and alternator. Mine needs too many repairs. Additionally, I lost part 600135-1 (bracket that attaches to the top of the crankcase and secures the middle of the top of the dog house. Curious if someone can measure it so I can make it

Variations are not great enough and very short for the oil pressure to reflect on the gauge

For some reason everyone told me to stay away from them: pilots, governor overhaul shop, governor manufacturer

Having some vibrations that can’t be tracked down to an engine or airframe. During OH replaced governor with a brand new one and now RPM changes lag (sometimes overspeed and fluctuates in turbulence). Think I might want to check my prop since it was also leaking a bit, any recommendations for a good prop shop in LA area?

I don’t get why it is ok to leave 6 remaining bolts without safety wiring at the cowling side. Is it like - if it does not fall off then it is acceptable?

I would like to print one for myself if you have a link to download files

Guy who told me that apparently dealt with a lot of governors sold by west coast governors. For some reason he particularly said not to go with them and my understanding that customer experience might be good but not their governors. Glad to hear that it’s not everyone’s opinion tho

I had a Hartzell H-1. I thought ATH-1 will use the same bracket while McCauley will require another bracket from Lazar. This is why I am looking for either same H-1 as I had or ATH-1 PCU5000. Am I missing something?

Correct. That is the PCU5000 part number I am looking to buy. Decided to see if someone is selling before I buy new or overhauled from a governor shop

I was told to stay away from West Coast Governor (by another governor shop that is highly recommended on Mooneyspace) because they don’t use good parts for overhauls

In the middle of a major overhaul, my current governor contaminated and does not pass test on a stand, looking for a reasonably priced replacement (H-1 or PCU5000) in a verified condition (not contaminated, not after prop strike)

I tried longer push rod - did not help and probably should not if timing is affected because of a cam lobe shape change. Issue is not fixed yet

I did and found an excessive clearance on #4 intake that is likely a contribution. That said it is not terribly bad and I did not dig further yet in that direction. That said, I also uploaded another flight and they said to look for an induction leak, which I did and found nothing but replaced intake gaskets anyways Let us know when you find out what’s your issue!

Oil consumption is ok, 6-7 hours per 1qt. Here is a picture if a #4 valves. I previously had another engine monitor. I started noticing this issue 6 month ago once I installed dynon. I set up Dynon to start EGT readings at 1000 degrees while previous monitor showed values from 0. As you can tell 100 degrees difference on Dynon is much more noticeable because of the scale. Pictures from previous monitor show that EGT on #4 and #3 are about the same and higher then #1 and #2

@PT20J data is from Dynon engine monitor. I borescoped cylinders and #4 definitely have more deposits. This aligns with it being rich most of the time