PT20J

You might try looking through the 337s and logbooks to see what equipment has been removed to get a clue. My ‘94 J has a light (it’s amber on mine) in the same location labeled GPS ACTIVE. I think it was part of the original factory KLN 90 installation which was removed and replaced with a GNS 430W at the same time the Aspen PFD was added by the previous owner. Since the Aspen annunciates the nav source, any requirement for a separate indicator is eliminated Skip

Does anyone actually use a compass anymore? Years ago, my HSI gyro failed on a MVFR flight in the LA area. I had to fly from Van Nuys to Chino on the compass with 3 sm viz. surrounded by busy airspace. Not that hard, but it did make me wish fo a vertical card compass which I now have. I took the plane to a compass rose and checked both the Aspen and the compass and they were within 2-3 degrees of each other on all 12 points, but in the air I sometimes see 5-6 degrees difference between the two. IIRC Douglas apparently thought so little of the requirement for a magnetic compass on the DC-9 that they installed it behind the right pilot seat and it could only be viewed through a mirror on the glareshield. Skip

Another work around you might try until you get it checked out is to run the mains 5 psi low. The slight extra rolling friction dampens out the yawing moment. Skip

I always lower the car onto jack stands when I’m crawling under it. Since the plane is tall enough not to crush me, I just let the jack support it until I get the wheel off and the I put some wood blocks under the axel. I only use this method to lift one wheel at a time. Skip

Ive had good success with Carbon-X.

With just me in the airplane I set trim like this. With a further aft CG, I set it more nose down. With trim set this way and takeoff flaps, a steady 5 lb. (approx.) pull on the yoke during the takeoff roll will cause the nose wheel to lift and the plane to fly off when it's ready. After it rotates about 5 degrees, (ten degrees on the AI since the plane sits about 5 degrees nose up on the ground) releasing the pressure stops the rotation and the airplane is usually pretty well in trim until flap retraction. With the trim set this way, the gap is 4.5": Also, with takeoff trim, the leading edge of the fin is tilted 1-deg. aft of vertical and the bungees hold the elevator in trail: For reference: Full nose up trim gives a gap of 5-1/4", the fin is tilted forward 1-deg., and the bungees hold the elevator trailing edge up 10-deg. Full nose down trim gives a gap of 3-1/2", the fin is tilted aft 5-deg., and the bungees hold the elevator trailing edge down 10-deg. These measurements were made with the airplane sitting on the gear. The nose was 4-deg up in this condition measured at the leveling screws. As I'm sure you are aware, the trim indicator cable can be adjusted independently of the trim jackscrew position, so it may or may not be set correctly. The important thing is that the elevator should be in trail with the stabilizer in the takeoff trim setting. Skip

The problem with the electric speed brakes is that the worm and mating gear are exposed to any water coming in through the top of the wing and the grease can wash out. It's not a bad idea to remove them for inspection, but if you don't want to take out the screws from the top (if for instance you've got new paint and don't want to mess with it), I found it possible to grease them in place from below with a long Q-tip when in the up position. Don't overdo it -- you don't want grease to find it's way into the clutch. Skip

It may be highly refined, but in a small space it stinks like all get out. I just left the doors open snd it did eventually go away.

Best way to get some matching touch up paint is to take an inspection panel to an auto paint supply store and have them color match a pint of 1K enamel. For lighter colors like white and tan, a computer color match comes really close. If you want to get a dark color matched, it's best to give them a day or two to hand match it. You can touch up the rivet heads with a small brush. The 1K paint isn't as hard as 2K (paint + hardener) but you don't have to mix it and for small touch ups it's fine unless you are going to wax and power buff it a lot. Skip

When Jacques Esculier was CEO, he got the factory ISO 9000 certified and then aggressively sought contracts with Boeing and others aerospace companies to manufacture components at competitive prices (due largely to low West Texas labor rates), and that got the company through one dry spell in airplane sales. I don't know if Mooney still does that or not, but I thought it was a pretty good idea back when.

Richard Collins often observed that the cost of maintaining an airplane is more related to the cost of a new airplane than the airplane's value. Cost to maintain is the killer of "cheap" complex aircraft. Ever notice how cheap light twins are to buy? It could be worse, you could have a V-tail Bonanza with a damaged magnesium ruddervator. Skip

The inboard and outboard senders are floats attached to rheostats that are wired in series. If the outboard sender has a bad spot on on the rheostat near the full position, it might cause this when you filled the tank. Try running off that tank and see if it comes back alive when the fuel level drops. Skip

Maybe you guys should try one of these: https://www.classicnation.com/list-of-the-most-popular-classic-car-forums/ I’m still trying to find the best option for replacing door seals.

Bruce’s has pictures of their product at aircraftcovers.com. Bruce’s products and customer service are top notch. They modified a cover for me that was purchased by the previous owner to accommodate an added 406 ELT antenna at no charge. Skip

I called Brown Aircraft Supply and they confirmed that BA-189-139 has been superseded by T-9088.

Landing is really about energy management. Engine thrust and airspeed are two forms of energy that you have control over. To fly a constant descent angle to the runway at a constant airspeed (neglecting for the moment destabilizing atmospheric forces such as wind shear and thermals) you need a constant power setting. Entering ground effect tilts the lift vector forward and increases lift and reduces induced drag. But, flaring increases angle of attack which increases induced drag. It also increases lift, but the airspeed is decreasing which decreases lift so if you get the flare right, one effect will counteract the other. So as you flare, lift is constant, drag is increasing, and the airspeed is decreasing. Reducing power to idle at this point hurries up the process and touchdown happens soon afterwards. Notice how an airliner lands next time you are unfortunate enough to be crammed in the back of one. For a jet, pretty much every landing is a short field landing. If you are floating a lot, you are too fast. The problem with reducing power at 100 feet is that reducing power causes pitch down moment that you have to counteract with elevator which complicates the whole process by destabilizing the approach. The only reason to do this is having too much energy (speed + power) so you reduce the form of energy most readily controllable (power). Try flying the final slower with constant power (varied only to compensate for wind shear or thermals) and doing a coordinated flare and power reduction and see if it doesn’t work for you. There’s nothing magic about it - it’s just physics. Cheers, Skip

I agree with both these comments. The greater sensitivity to ground effect accounts for the challenge in Mooney landings. My original point was that there is nothing about a Mooney that requires special techniques. But, as pointed out in these two posts, airspeed control is critical to good landings.

After 9/11, the FAA wanted to require a photo on pilot certificates. AOPA and others successfully argued that possessing a government issued photo ID would be be a simpler way of achieving the same goal. Unless the reg gets changed, there should be no tie-in with RealID which is a TSA issue not an FAA issue.

Don’t forget to use a new gasket (crush washer) when you reinstall it. Split side toward engine.

The tail tie down is ahead of the empennage. Still, Mooney SIM20-114 recommends against using the tail tie down and instead suggests lifting the engine with a hoist. That same SI also says not to fly with the wing tie down rings installed

Yeah, that’s what I’ve got. It leaks air at the bottom in flight. My glue is only 25 years old so maybe it will be easier to remove

It’s not that hard. Rudder keeps the nose aligned. Aileron counteracts sideways drift. Fly a constant descent angle at 1.3 Vso controlling airspeed with pitch and descent rate with power. Round out close to the runway and reduce power to idle and hold it off until the mains touch. The Mooney wing is close to the ground and the flap span is large which accentuates ground effect. The landing gear is stiff which exaggerates any firmness in the touchdown. The main gear geometry puts the wheels a little farther aft of the CG than some airplanes. When you touch down, the moment arm to the tail shortens as the pivot point shifts from the CG to the wheels which causes a nose down pitching moment. All airplanes have a few quirks. But the basic technique is the same. Skip

Apparently, cinder blocks are no longer manufactured due to unavailability of coal cinders. http://masonrydesign.blogspot.com/2010/03/what-is-cinder-block-it-conjures-image.html

I’ve heard that. The one I got is supposed to glue to the door. It has a V cross section rather than being hollow.

Byron, Are you sure that's the correct seal? According to Brown's website, it's made from 60 durometer neoprene. My M20J IPC calls for BA-189-139 (which I cannot find on Brown's website) or an alternate T-9088 which is sponge neoprene. I'm interested because I need to replace my cabin door seal as well. I bought a Knots 2U seal but I'm not sure I like the cross section. Maybe someone that's used that one can chime in with their experience. Skip