PT20J

X/C 20W-50 and Shell W100 Plus are both mineral oil based. X/C is thinner with viscosity index improvers (VII). Why would one coke exhaust valve guides more than the other? The Plus in the Shell oil signifies that it has the LW-16702 anti scuff additive mixed in so you don't have to add it. If you want that and desire the Phillips product, you can use Phillips Victory instead of X/C. Phillips claims that X/C improves oil consumption compared to straight weight oil. The theory is that the VII increase the viscosity well above 50 weight on the hot cylinder walls and reduce the amount of oil getting past the rings into the combustion chamber. My oil consumption on a rebuilt IO-360 with about 100 hours on it went from 8 hr/qt with 100W to 12 hr/qt with X/C.

My 1994 M20J was 28V at the cigar lighter. The battery is about 24V, the alternator puts out about 28V. Some stuff is labelled 24V; some 28V. It's the same thing -- just how you look at it. So something labelled 24V or 28V will work, assuming that the lighter is not stepped down to 12V as apparently some are. Just get a multimeter and measure it.

I believe that’s a Whelen part. Check with @OSUAV8TER

Well, they were located at the left wing root, so pretty hard to bump into

Legally, aircraft instruments can only be repaired by a FAA certified instrument repair station.

I might call a couple of overhaulers - they must run into this often and may have some tricks.

It's pretty easy to double check the aileron and flap rigging. 1. Strap a bar across the bottom of the yokes to hold them in the neutral position. 2. Check that the ailerons are both deflected down about 2 deg. (This allows for the ailerons to drift up slightly in flight). 3. Place a long straight edge on the trailing edge of the wing and check that the flaps are aligned with the aft section of the wing at the ends and mid-point. (The surfaces don't line up perfectly -- you're just checking for any obvious deflection of the flap relative to the wing). 4. The flaps should either be aligned with the ailerons or be slightly higher than the ailerons (because the ailerons are set down 2 deg.) But they need to be the same on both sides.

If you are certain it is rigged correctly, it’s simple to make a fine adjustment following the procedure in the service manual.

My IA swears that for stuck parts where nothing else works he uses a 50-50 mix of Stoddard solvent and Dexron ATF and lets it soak overnight.

Mooney might have some of that in stock as it undoubtably bought it in bulk. But, I’ve often wondered how to install it since it looks like it’s applied before the empennage is mated to the tail. Maybe when it’s new it is soft enough to thread it around the leading edge.

The Decathlon I used to fly just had toggles and they weren’t even locking.

Well, that interpretation certainly makes sense. And, my IA may have had it wrong. IAs do seem to disagree a lot. When I was purchasing the airplane, Don Maxwell did the prepurchase inspection. He had done some work a while back on the plane replacing a wingtip, outboard wing skin and a rib due to a hangar door incident. I had another IA of about Don's years of experience review the logbooks. He said that the repair should have a 337. Don said it didn't need one because he just replaced some parts with new factory parts. I asked a third IA that is director of maintenance at a large Part 135 operation and he thought about it for a while and agreed with Don, but said he wouldn't find fault with someone who thought a 337 was warranted. I'm lucky to have two experienced IAs on my home base and if I don't like the answer I get from one, I go ask the other. Sometimes they agree; sometimes not. But then all the FSDOs don't agree with each other either. That's why you get an STC for Rosen sun visors and don't need one for GLAP windows. From GLAP FAQ: Q3: Why are your thicker side windows not STC'd? A: Our regional FAA has determined where STC's are to be applied. Keep in mind that not requiring an STC keeps the paperwork down and a 337 form is not necessary. We have been told by our regional FAA office that STC's have been overused for minor changes, thicker side windows are considered to be a minor change by our regional FAA office (Chicago).

Garmin engineers have supposedly been looking for over a year at an issue I sent them (with a lot of data) where the G3X does not display all TFRs that are active and displayed on my GTN. Both the GTN and G3X receive ADS-B IN from the GTX 345. I suspect it is related to an earlier problem where multi-day TFRs were only displayed on the first day on the GTN which required software updates for the GTX and GTN.

It’s clearly not a major mod. But, the visors are not identical to the originals. So, my understanding is that the FSDO where Rosen is located required an STC for installation and the FAA expects 337s for STCs. What’s interesting is that you are supposed to file a 337 to install something with an STC, but you can subsequently remove it with just a logbook entry.

Is the stabilizer rubbing on the tail cone?

Maybe not useless. It caused me to look in the G3X Experimental Installation Manual. -51 is rated to 30,000 ft, and -56 is rated to 55,000 ft.

I’ve never quite figured out Garmin’s part numbering system. My GSU 25D is listed on the invoice and in the logbook entry as a 011-02929-51. But, in the warranty records, it’s listed as a 010-01071-51. In most configuration management systems, the first digits denote the level of assembly. So I assume that the 010-number is the basic part and the 011-number includes the basic part plus whatever ancillary components are necessary to complete the installation, but I’m not certain. Also, the last part of the number would likely be the version. The 011-02929-56 was supported beginning with G3X version 9.00. I have no idea what the difference is between a -51 and a -56 but it must have required a software change.

Very nice.

I was talking to Don Maxwell a week or so ago and mentioned the nose gear repair and he told me they bought a heat treatment oven and can repair a nose gear for $1200.

Forgot to mention it is attached to the accessory case where the mechanical tach cable would attach.

It only takes a dab of grease and you can do it from the top without removing the cartridges using a coffee stir stick. The problem with the speed brakes is that they are exposed to the elements and some of the electrical parts are not hermetically sealed.

These removed from my 1994 M20J and are for sale at Skyman Avionics 541-604-9573. Equipment Manufacturer Model Part Number Serial Number Mods Install Date Notes Audio Panel BendixKing KMA 24 066-1055-003 100689 1,2,4,5,6,7 6/30/1994 with tray KAP 150 Attitude gyro BendixKing KG 258 060-0020-01 12847 1-6 6/30/1994 KAP 150 Flight Computer BendixKing KC 191 065-0054-03 32144 6-11,13-16 10/7/2020 28V, with tray KAP 150 Pitch Servo BendixKing KS 177 065-0050-04 3799 1, 3 6/30/1994 KAP 150 Roll Servo BendixKing KS 178 065-0051-01 4977 3 6/30/1994 Intercom NAT InterVOX AA80-001 11423 6/30/1994 Stormscope Antenna + 24' cable BF Goodrich WX-900 78-8060-5970-1 FNA02402906 6/30/1994 Includes gasket and doubler Analog converter unit Aspen ACU A-05-112-00 1959 6/17/2019 Vertical Speed Indicator United Instruments 7000 3F932 6/30/1994 Vacuum Gauge UMA 3-310-55 A6433 6/30/1994 True Airspeed Indicator Sigma-Tek 820308-535 EA5175-10PTL-MON T34729A 6/30/1994 Clock Mid-Continent MD89 599 6/30/1994 Standby Vacuum Pump Aerosafe Guardian I 2371 6/30/1994 Fuel Senders Mooney 2 ea 610242-1, 1 ea 610242-1,610242-3 6/30/1994 Right 2 check good. Left 2 rheostats have dead spots. Vacuum Regulator Airborne 2H3-39 5AJ 6/30/1994 Vacuum Filter Airborne IJ7-1 Tachometer B&D 880039-515 0520-003L8 A01311 6/30/1994 Tach Generator B&D 880053-501 6/30/1994 Hour Meter B&D 880035-507 0540-007 A01263 6/30/1994 H/W ver 02. Works with B&D tachometer Altimeter United Instruments 5934PA-3 7J930 6/30/1994 OAT Gauge Sigma Tek 169BP 169BP-910-1LBW T72385A 6/30/1994 Manifold Pressure Gauge United Instruments 6414 2669 6/30/1994 Code D.46 Oil Pressure Transducer Kulite APT-154-1000-100PSIG 5/31/4720 6/30/1994

It’s either the gauge, the tach generator, or the wiring. I’d check the wiring first. If that isn’t the issue then I’d replace the gauge because it’s fogged anyway. If that doesn’t do it, then that leaves the tach generator. This tach also drives the hour meter if you are still using that.

If you want yo replace it, Skyman Avionics has the one I removed for sale. info@skymanavionics.com