PT20J

Garmin has a myriad of solutions. Not everything works with everything. The GFC 500, G3X and G5 were designed to work together as a system. The GFC 500 autopilot software is in the PFD. The software was added to the GI 275 so it will work with a GFC 500 also. The G3X and G5 PFDs were not designed to drive legacy autopilots. The GI 275 is unique in that it will work with legacy autopilots and the GFC 500 as well. If you want to retain a lot of legacy equipment including autopilots and want a large screen, the G500TXi is the best solution. My advice is to always decide first what autopilot you want and then go from there to build out a panel. The autopilot is the keystone.

Bevan repairs these.

Garmin changed its notification system a couple of years ago and I stopped getting emails. I contacted the warranty dept and they straightened it out. I now get emails when service literature is published for my registered equipment. However, I did not receive notification of the release of G3X 9.17 or 9.18 and there are no service bulletins for them as @Rick Junkin noted. I sent and email to aviation support at Garmin and asked what's up. I'll report back if I get an answer. I reported to them some time back that the GTN software webpage did not show the most current release and they thanked me for letting them know, but it still shows 20.31 even though 20.42 is current.

Careful, my Garmin dealer has an avionics shop and a regular maintenance shop. The shop rate for the avionics shop is lower than for the A&Ps. You could not come up with enough colors to color code every wire in the airplane. That's why the factory wiring uses a wire designation system and the schematics show wire designations and the wires are labelled. Any good avionics installer should have a wire label printer.

As @EricJ said, DC is more likely to magnetize the structure than AC. Nothing draws more current than the starter and the wire from the battery in my J runs along the left side tubing. Since that doesn’t seem to cause a problem, I wouldn’t worry about a vacuum cleaner. Still, I find it much easier to use a shop vac with a long hose in the cramped space of the cabin.

A Dynon engineer told me that the decision to go for J and K was based on market estimates. Lots of these models were built and they are higher value which makes them ripe for upgrades. Dynon did not originally understand that the J and F airframes were more similar than the J and K. But, by the time they had figured this out, they were too far down the approval path to add a model without delaying the project.

Removing and installing panel-mount avionics is preventive maintenance. However, disconnecting the static line is not. So, if you plan to operate the airplane while the computer is removed, the strictly proper way to do this is to have a mechanic remove the computer, plug the static line, make a logbook entry, placard the circuit breaker and electric trim switch inop and, if you intend to fly IFR, perform a static leak test as required by 91.411.

Crawl under the instrument panel and look at the back of the tray. There should be a short black rubber hose that connects to the static plumbing. Disconnect this and then remove the computer from the front.

I have had really good luck with putting 1/2" wide TapeCase 200A silicone foam tape on the doors and putting TapeCase 1" wide 423-3 UHMW tape on the belly. Both are available from Amazon. Both have really good adhesive but can be easily removed.

I used to be a lot smarter than I am now.

Sounds like we need a legal interpretation of the legal interpretation .

§ 61.31 Type rating requirements, additional training, and authorization requirements. (a) Type ratings required. A person who acts as a pilot in command of any of the following aircraft must hold a type rating for that aircraft: (1) Large aircraft (except lighter-than-air). (2) Turbojet-powered airplanes. (3) Other aircraft specified by the Administrator through aircraft type certificate procedures

Two different circuits: The throttle switch is to warn you if the gear is not down when you reduce power to land. The squat switch is to prevent raising the gear on the ground. Because it’s difficult to adjust to compensate for aging shock disks and temperature variations both of which affect shock disk resilience, Mooney came up with an airspeed switch. I believe some airplanes were retrofitted in the field.

The picture of the plugs in the docket is not very useful because it does not show well the firing end and most of the plugs are turned so it is difficult to see the profile of the electrodes. However, from the little I can tell, they don't look that bad. Perhaps Dugosh used the go/no gauge and they slightly passed through the hole. Or maybe it was just the mechanic's observation that they were worn. Either way, I agree with @Shadrach that this didn't have anything to do with it. It just gave the IIC something to note in the report.

I would take the NTSB reports on GA accidents with a grain of salt. When I attended the Lycoming factory class there were a bunch of NTSB investigators there. They had the most interesting stories, like the toxicology report that came back from a deceased pilot that looked like an inventory for a pharmacy. But, the most interesting part was how overloaded they are. They all complained about the backlog of investigations and admitted that they often don't have enough time to get to the root cause. So, engine quit and it looks like it was disabled by detonation. Plugs look worn, timing was off, pilot operating LOP-- maybe those things caused it, maybe not. No time to try to figure it out. No one's going to cough up any more information anyway. Just note it and move on to the next report.

It should be pretty tight. Spec is 5/16" deflection for 10 lb. applied force. I usually check it with a torque wrench at annual and just go by feel in between. SI 1129D Alternator Belt Tension, Methods of Checking.pdf EDIT: FWIW, I haven't needed to adjust mine since we installed the new one with the rebuilt engine 500 hours ago.

If it really has anything like 0.1" of play there is something more seriously wrong than lack of lubrication. The whole bearing is only 0.63" in diameter. If it were mine, I'd take it apart and figure out what's up. Elevators are pretty critical and looseness might affect flutter margin. According to the manufacturer, it's a single row ball bearing. I contacted RBC about it several years ago because there were some posts here suggesting that it shouldn't be lubricated because it was sealed and spraying oil into it would wash out the grease. But, according to RBC it is not sealed and should be lubricated periodically with a light machine oil. I use LPS-2. https://productinfo.rbcbearings.com/item/single-row-ball-bearings-standard-series/rbc-airframe-bearing-specials/pn4a-2

In engineering we have a saying that there is no such thing as a single change.

The replacement gear is thicker by .060"

FWIW, everybody seems to refer to the nose gear as a "truss". Actually, the nose gear comprises three parts: the upper part is the truss, the middle part is the leg, and the lower part is the spindle. It is usually the leg that gets the dents, However, if the damage is severe enough it can damage both the leg and the truss. Check the damaged parts against the IPC to determine which parts need to be replaced or repaired. If the damage is over 1/32", I would not purchase the airplane until after it was repaired. If you buy it and move it and it collapses you will be the proud owner of an expensive repair.

Unless I'm asked to keep the speed up, I generally power back to 20" clean when being vectored, and then back to 15" when intercepting the final approach course. This gets me slowed down to 90 KIAS by the time I'm one dot from GS intercept. I set my gear horn for 12".

FWIW, I have my mags done at Aircraft Magneto Service. They've been in business for a long time and have a good reputation.

If D&B is a repair station it will have a work order detailing what was done. You could ask for a copy. I would want to know if they replaced the condensers. Metal transfer across the points can caused by a bad cap as I recall.

The way to find electrical part numbers is to look on the schematic for your serial number and find the code for the part (on mine it is D1). Then look in the back of the service manual where the electrical components are listed and find the section for your serial number and look up the code and it will list the vendor and part number. For my airplane it is listed as a 1N2483 or 1N5060 or 3720GE.

I believe the answer is that it’s not right. But, if it’s been that way for 26 years, it may not be worth fixing. In rigging, often if you change one thing you mess up another.