Prior owner

Or, go to Component Supply and order a thicker .054 Stainless Steel that is Teflon Coated.... worked nicely for me.

Depending upon which magneto(s) you have, you also may or may not need a flat washer under the internal teeth washer.

I use that unit for helicopter balancing...works very well. I’m going to re-balance the prop on my C. I’m wondering what the best choice is for balance weight location, as I Have seen people using different locations. Which did you prefer to use?

The new Phillips Victory 20w50 has the Lycoming additive.

I wonder... Polygone is often warmed when it is applied, so that it will work more effectively. If I remember correctly (I could be wrong), it also heats up on its own when it hits sealant. If there is enough in the tank to submerge the pickup screen, it is conceivable that enough tank pressure could develop (with a clogged vent) to force fluid up the fuel line. Also, if a plane was jacked by the main jackpoints to raise it slightly for better tank access while the nose wheel was left on the ground, the fuel lines aren’t so much of an uphill run anymore.

Midi-Chlorian levels of the person waxing the plane would also have to be checked, as The Force is stronger in some than in others. Certain cabin air fresheners can also have the same effect.

Would depend on what was used to strip the tank, I would think. I think you might be onto something, though... when Polygon is used, it melts the sealant and creates a tan colored, milky solution that can flow and re-harden anywhere it ends up. I think it is standard practice to remove the tank interconnect hoses though... to avoid anything getting into the lines or fuel valve.

Ethanol? Fuel stabilizer? What would do that? If auto gas or something weird was added to the fuel and it did that the gascolator seal, I’d be looking at every seal, o-ring and hose, including the engine driven fuel pump diaphragm and fuel tank interconnect hoses. That is too weird to ignore.

Take yourself out for a drink to celebrate that you didn’t lose all your fuel or burst into flames... Either this most basic inspection item was neglected multiple times, or that seal is not the correct part. Very curious about this. LASAR sells the seal

It is my understanding that a lead acid battery benefits from being kept at full charge. I have the de-sulfating battery minder that is specific to my concord battery, and I have the permanent charger receptacle installed on the plane as well. My battery is 6 years old and has been on a de-sulfating charger from day one. My last battery test was 4 months ago, and the 30 AH battery still has 112% capacity. I am sold on a quality charger/tender. Battery Minder also has solar powered units, which is pretty cool.

That was a great read, Ross. Thanks for posting the links. While this has probably been beat to death in other threads, The Lycoming Operators Manual for the 360 series states: LEANING TO EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE GAGE. a. Normally aspirated engines with fuel injectors or uncompensated carburetors. (1) Maximum Power Cruise (approximately 75% power) – Never lean beyond 150°F on rich side of peak EGT unless aircraft operators manual shows otherwise. Monitor cylinder head temperatures. (2) Best Economy Cruise (approximately 75% power and below) – Operate at peak EGT. .....Lycoming’s “Economy Cruise“ puts you deep inside the Red Box. My 1964 M20D operating manual is silent in regards to leaning procedures, other than the provided charts for “Best Power Mixture”. The older Mooney POH’s leave a lot to be desired..

I have not used them, but I have a co-worker IA who recommends them. If the cooler has never been cleaned, it really ought to be sent out.

First thing I would do is send the cooler out for inspection and cleaning. Most shops don’t have the setup to do it right- send it to a shop that specializes in oil cooler cleaning. Never heard of a bubble...

I Believe that is correct. My carb is a 4164 stamped “M” with 16.4-16.5 gph

I’m glad no one has suggested pumping the throttle furiously to increase FF on takeoff... surely someone has done it though. Lol

My FF at takeoff is 16.4 - 16.5.

If an oil drain back tube was clogged and oil was not circulating very well through the head, this could be a factor?

When I went into my tanks, the area leaking the worst was where someone had done the sump valve upgrade and the sealant they used became hard and was cracking....it also had not been coated with the topcoat. If you are going to patch, I recommend applying the top coat afterwards. The rest of my tank looked pretty good.

Thanks...!

Didn’t see a thread... I’ll look again

Got an email from them today... they are moving. I think Rancho still has a $25 landing fee and a parking fee..anybody know?

This might be possible... another factor to consider when estimating the force required to push a float valve open would be the buoyancy of the float- does an old brass float (with no leaks) have the same shape/displacement/weight and the same buoyancy as the modern composite float? I’m curious about that. My O-360 has the old brass float in the carb. As far as car vs airplane (not pressure carbs) carburetors go, the float bowl and float valve systems are essentially identical. Too much fuel pressure will push the valve open. I have no idea how much press it takes to do that on a Marvel Schebler carb....when rebuilding the carbs, they are tested at a fairly low head pressure, if I remember correctly.

Lycoming specifies 8psi max for O-360 (page 3-10 of the Lycoming Operator’s Manual). I do understand that Mooney POH says limitation is 6 psi. My plane does exactly what yours does. Normal in cruise, and above 6psi at idle.

I don’t see why you couldn’t spray it on test strips And have flame tests performed... Will you be spraying both sides of the vinyl?