Prior owner

I don’t believe there is any restriction on having additional, personal checklists in the plane, so long as the original checklist (or POH) is in the plane.

Jumper from the red light terminal on the switch to the green light terminal on the switch to check the wiring from switch to green light. If it checks out, then it’s the switch. Clean the switch terminals While you’re there... As mentioned above, the tang the Johnson bar pushes on could also be bent, or the switch mounting screws are loose.

Some Tractors Have starter-generators. Wondering why you never see them on recips, but always on turbines.

PM’d you...

Yep. @47U sent the Delco manual to me. It was very helpful. It also references a few Delco service bulletins, which contain a little more info, but the points air gap spec (if it is different than the automotive version of the regulator), remains a mystery. Probably better that it remains a mystery- these old units should just be replaced when they misbehave , considering the gravity of having a charging system failure in an aircraft.

The trouble with the old Delco-Remy aircraft regulator is that they solder over the screws on the current and voltage units that you would normally use to adjust the air gap between the points ( I don’t think they wanted you to attempt to adjust these units in the field). To correctly adjust The regulator, first you need to know the air gap spec for each unit (good luck finding that spec for the aircraft version), and then you can adjust the points spring tension on the back. All you can really do is adjust the spring tension for the points with these, which is not really the proper way to adjust the regulator. And yes, The spring tension adjustment on the voltage unit is very sensitive- 1/8 Turn might raise the max volts +1.2 V . Easy to cook a battery... Yes, Zeftronics is the way to go. But Nobody has them right now. Hopefully the factory will get back to making them soon.

Sorry, I had forgotten about this thread that I started.. I have a 50 Amp Delco generator and a 1119224 Delco Regulator. The Loadmeter was darting all over place, with or without a Heavy load on the system. I went through the entire charging system, removing all cables and grounds and cleaning up every terminal. ran an ohmmeter through every wire and switch. I also cleaned The points in my regulator, and it has now started behaving a lot better... (2 second video is how it was acting all the time, but no more). Voltage has now stabilized and The loadmeter needle is not moving so much in flight now. Battery capacity test performed and battery is in great condition. I’d like to get a Zeftronics, and probably will in the near future. I also have a generator switch. FullSizeRender.mov

Thank you!

What is the manufacturer and part number for the new cooler you have? Looks like a real improvement over the old one...

Some of you know that I have been battling high oil temps and have been putting in some long hours to get that resolved. During a second test flight, I noticed that the ammeter was just sitting on Zero. Switched on the pitot heat and boost pump and tried to get a reaction out of it... but nothing. Just Zero amps. Here is what happened: Today, after a fitful night of wondering whether I was going to have to pull the generator (dreading that one), I went to the airport with multimeter in hand. Hooked it up to the bus, turned on the master switch, and checked voltage. Started the plane and monitored the voltage on the bus while increasing the rpm... all the way to 2000. Nothing. No voltage change. Then I removed all the wires to the regulator and cleaned everything and re-attached. Started the plane.... no change. Nothing on the ammeter and no change in voltage. Decided to do a “full field test” on the generator- disconnected the generator wire from the regulator and attached it to the Bat terminal on the regulator. Removed the field wire and grounded it. Went into the plane and unscrewed my fuel flow meter and EGT gauge and Verified that everything was off or disconnected. Was about to start the plane when it occurred to me that I should probably disconnect the cluster gauge, so I reached under the panel and began unscrewing the canon plug...it wasn’t tight. Hmmm.... So I unscrewed it all the way and then started plane and ran the test- my voltmeter on the bus showed that voltage increased and decreased with rpm changes. I was careful to keep the voltage under 14 volts. So, it’s not the generator. Must be the regulator... I hooked everything back up in the plane, including the cluster gauge, but I left the voltmeter attached to the bus. I started the plane again. This time the ammeter showed a normal indication and an increase in rpm resulted in an increase in voltage. The plane was fixed! But how? [Edit] I flashed the generator by running this test, that’s how... Problem returned intermittently during the next flight- zero indication, then a mid scale charge, then wavering needle. Something isn’t right. Is this what a failing regulator will do? Haven’t dealt with many regulator issues before, and don’t have a bench test setup.

On my plane, the hard line coming out of the reservoir for the flaps actually bends "up" to a level equal right at the top of the reservoir, before heading back down. Pressure bleeding quickly from the actuator while keeping the reservoir full the whole time was the only way to eliminate the potential an air bubble there. My installation may not be correct

I agree. But miracles do happen. Just not to me

The only upside was that I also decided to replace a suspect Fuel hose (It looked torqued) from the boost pump to the engine driven pump, and doing so increased my GPH during takeoff by Almost 1 GPH.

UPDATE: Installed new oil cooler hoses, new oil filter hoses- they are much better lengths and all went in with a large bend radius (No possibility of a kink). Spent an ungodly amount of time carefully running them so they would not chafe everything else (stainless outer wrap). Note to self: never order lines without fire sleeves, as the fire sleeve provides its own chafing protection. To review, I have replaced the Vernatherm and I recently removed the remote oil filter adapter housing to ensure that the Vernatherm poppet is seating correctly. A poorly modified gasket was found behind the adapter, which was only very slightly covering an oil passage. Oil cooler has been flushed with solvent backwards and forwards, and placed in a heated ultrasonic cleaner and then flushed again. Oil cooler was sealed all the way around at the front cowling. I am climbing at 120 mph. CHT’s are all below 345 F during the climb. None of this makes any difference, except the climb speed, which does delay the onset of elevated oil temps. After my last test flight, I took a Lasar thermometer and ran it slowly down each row that the oil flows through. There were variations, with one row reading 32 F lower than the highest temp row. I would think that variations are to be expected, since the cooler is simple in design, and the oil simply flows from one side to the other via whichever rows present the least resistance. It’s hard to know whether the temp difference between rows is of any great significance. What I don’t absolutely know for sure is when the oil cooler was replaced, and if it was brand spanking new when it went in. The prior owner said that he installed a new one, but that could mean anything. No log entry, and no receipts. The cooler is the only thing left. It is the Aero Classics Cooler specified for the C & D. During my earlier call to The Aero Classsics tech rep, he sounded as though he was not surprised I was having issues, and offered a higher efficiency cooler at $600. As I rolled my mistress back into the hangar, she let out a chuckle and said, “ come back when you’ve got more money!”

I would first check hydraulic reservoir Level and that reservoir vent flows freely in both directions. The Fitting on the reservoir For the flap is in the side of the reservoir, so if the level gets very low, it cuts off the flaps. The brakes are connected to the very bottom fitting, and will get the very last of the hydraulic fluid if the reservoir level drops too low.

Three things change in flight in regards to the flaps (that I know of): aerodynamic pressure acting on the flaps, the pitch attitude of the aircraft, and ambient pressure. Perhaps your reservoir vent is clogged or only venting in one direction.

And to clarify, this isn’t a problem wherein the flaps aren’t staying down while on the ground- they do not pump down at all on the ground, even momentarily, correct?

How many pumps to get the flaps all the way down in the air?

But if the cooler is at the front of the Lower cowling, as it is in the C & D models, then maybe the considerations are a little different? With the cowl flaps closed, is the pressure inside the lower cowling impeding air flow through my oil cooler at cruise speeds due to all the air flowing into the lower cowling from above the cylinders? Moving the cooler to the back of the upper cowling solves this (but steals cooling air from the cylinders, as you pointed out), but as we already know, that mod is not available on the C & D.

Still looking for more info on the Harrison and Stewart Warner coolers...

Here’s one which graphs the heat rejection performance of the Aero Classics cooler that is normally specified as the part number replacement for the oil cooler in the C & D

I am in the middle of dealing with warmer oil temps in my D model, and from what I am seeing online, there are 4 different coolers that fit my plane: Harrison, Stewart Warner, and 2 different coolers from Aero Classics (a 6 row and a 7 row). It’s like comparing apples to oranges.... the pictures I have seen of the Stewart Warner cooler show that it is most definitely a larger cooler than Aero Classics cooler that I have. It is thicker (when measuring the distance from the face to the back of the cooler). It has to make a difference. If you guys are running wit great oil temps or high oil temps, please post which cooler you are running- There might be something to this..! The cooler in this C model [Edit] looks deeper than mine:

No hub caps, but tell me- do you have to remove them every time you check the tire pressure? Seems like a lot of trouble...

Yes, at least in my A2D I can. You also get the benefit of having your compression ratio raised by 0.002.

I believe mine were UREM37BY. Not sure which ignition harness fittings you have. Check your engine logbook for prior entries regarding which plugs were installed. I think Tempest website has a cross reference chart you can use, once you have the part number of the plugs you have installed in there now