skydvrboy

Yes, my F is fuel injected giving it 20 more hp. I just didn't expect that big of a difference in Vx and Vy. I think the difference is due more to the greater allowable gross weight in the F, which requires a higher air speed to provide the same lift with the same wings. FWIW, the speeds listed in my POH are IAS in both sections. If I had to guess, I'd say you have a misprint in your manual, but I would do a LOT more research before I acted on that assumption.

Poor technique. The point is to get everything to float... and NOT hit the ceiling.

Interesting differences between your '69 G and my '67 F. My POH only shows best rate of climb in the performance section chart (113 mph @ 0', 102 mph @ 10,000'). Max angle of climb is only found in the flight procedures section (94 mph). The flight procedures section also includes best rate of climb which matches the performance section. I wouldn't have expected so much variation in the speeds since they both use the same air frame.

I used Falcon based on a recommendation from my CFI for my M20F. I had around 100 hrs all in a Warrior. Cost was $1500/yr and they required 10/10 dual/solo insured through Starr, FWIW.

On mine when I got it, it flew pretty straight. At my first annual, the A&P noticed that the ailerons, flaps, and rudder were all rigged out of spec. He broke out the travel boards and put them all back to spec. Well, after that the plane would roll hard left if you let go of the controls (about 10 degrees per second roll rate). With substantial aileron input only, the plane would fly straight and the ball was centered. We have since dropped the left flap 3/4 degree and it is close. One degree drop will probably be about right. Don't know what this will do to my airspeed, but it will certainly reduce the cramping in my left arm!

Many of these questions can be answered by your local FSDO staff. Give them a call, after all, they are the ones who will hold you accountable if something should happen. Some of these posts remind me of when I asked our local FSDO guy about changing interior bulbs to LED's. I had read on MS that might not be allowed. He told me "Use some common sense kid, if your allowed to do something as complex as change tires and pack wheel bearings, we don't care if you change a light bulb." I'm guessing if I asked him if we were allowed to remove the wheel faring or do gear swing as part of the process he would tell me the same thing. If you are allowed to change the tire, you must be allowed to do everything the MM calls for when changing a tire. Not to mention the faring is covered under #12. How could you repair it if you aren't allowed to remove and replace it? It seems so many pilots, especially older pilots, are terrified of the FAA. Get to know them, they really aren't bad guys and are much more interested in keeping you safe than busting you for violating some rule. We regularly (3-4 times a year) have someone from the FSDO staff come and give safety presentations to our club.

Salty - Actually, the whole discussion stemmed from the fact that I can afford to do the hub upgrade, which leaves me with the option to upgrade or not. If I couldn't afford the upgrade, then there are no options and I'd be stuck with the ECI. Further, opportunity costs are REAL costs, so you don't necessarily lose money when you pay something now to delay a large expense. To highlight the point lets exaggerate the numbers. Let's say you could pay $10,000 today or pay $1 to delay that payment until next year. You would still have to pay the $10,000 next year, so did you lose the $1 you spent to delay the expense? I guess it depends on how you define "lose", but it's definitely a dollar I'd spend because of the opportunity cost of spending the $10,000 today. Mooniac15u - Reviewing your post, I see where you went wrong and came up with numbers that were off. Using all your numbers... you are correct in assuming that if you invested ~$3000 now and used the earnings to pay the ECI, that you would end up with ~$3000 and an ongoing ECI expense at the end. However, when you spend your ~$3000 upfront to eliminate the AD, you wouldn't also have $240 to invest every year. Where would that money come from? In the previous example it would come from the investment, but if you spent the money upfront it would have to come out of your pocket. So at the end of the 7 years, you would have $0 and a no ongoing ECI expense. If you still think the prop hub is a great investment, I'm still willing to let you invest in my prop hub and I'll pay you the ECI cost .

Not true. The inspection money today keeps me flying. Further, it delays the large expense until a time in the future. You guys seem to think that money tomorrow is worth the same as money today. Nothing could be further from the truth, as shown by Mooniac15u's reluctance to front me the money for the prop hub upgrade that he thinks is such a good investment.

If you believe this so strongly, I've got a hell of a deal for you. You send me the $2,760 today so I can buy the prop hub and I'll send you the $240 a year that I would have spent on the ECI. I'll even pay you for the next 10 years instead of just 7. PM me for the address where you can send the check.

No, if you spend $3,000 today and invest the $20 a month @ 10% for 7 years, at the end you will have $2,419. If you invest the $3,000 today and spend the $20 a month, at the end you will have $6,024. The total spent is the same either way $3000 this year and $20 a month, and yes, it is the outcome that differs, but not in the way you are thinking.

The $160 came from the fact I only do my ECI about every year and a half. 18 x $20 = $360, less $200 for the ECI. My mistake on my initial calculation of $1,680 is that I depreciated the replacement prop out over the 7 years, when in fact it would still have some value left. What that is I don't know, but your calculation assumes it still has $3k in value left which I think is optimistic. In addition to whatever I have to pay for the hub, I also have to pay for it to be IRAN'd and installed. After searching a bit, it seems that can run anywhere from $650 to $2500 depending on what needs done. Anyway you look at it, I can't afford to pay him much for the old non-AD hub. Fortunately, I'm guessing he doesn't value it too much as it is currently being used as an office decoration. I could even offer to give him my old hub, which would be just as valuable as an office decoration.

I could see how it might make sense if/when the prop needs work done on it anyway. I fly about 50-75 hrs a year, so I need the inspection about every year and a half. That "pays" me about $160 for my time to fly 30 minutes to the shop, wait 30 minutes for it to be done, and fly home. And... it gives me another excuse to fly. I used a 7 payback, because I won't invest in anything with a longer payback. If it's longer, it's an expense and not an investment. Any longer and I could put the money in an investment instead and use the proceeds to pay the recurring cost indefinitely and be money ahead.

Wife said I can go... I'm in! FYI that is where the picture in my avatar was taken.

I see. My master switch kills everything. As much as I fly at night, I can see how that would be handy though. I always wear a headlight so I can still see to get stuff out of the plane after the master is killed.

I was taught to leave the beacon on at all times for this reason. When you walk away, that flashing light reminds you that the master switch is still on. It has saved my butt a time or two.

How much should one pay for a hub that's not subject to the AD? I was at a fly-in recently talking to another Mooney owner who asked about my hub. He said he had a hub that isn't subject to the AD sitting in his lobby at his dental practice that he would be willing to sell me. If I back into it, I pay $200 every 100 hrs for my inspection, or about $20 a month after factoring in time and cost to fly to the shop. Using even a simple 7 year payback (zero interest) it would only be worth $1,680 and I'm pretty sure it will cost more than that to swap it out. Am I missing something here? It just seems that the cost and hassle of the AD is so small it's a non-factor.

I hate threads that end without a definitive answer, so here goes. Five minutes of button mashing and you can figure this thing out. The SPCH button is in fact SPEECH. It will tell you the current frequency and the standby frequency through your headset. To set the channels use the next up button to select the channel you want to change. Set the frequency and then select next up again. If you push the arrow button the frequency will flip flop but it will not change the preset frequency. That's pretty much it for changing frequencies. There are also some timing features that can be obtained by holding down the SPCH button, but I didn't fully explore those.

I think I may have figured it out when looking at a picture of the face plate. I'm guessing the SPCH button means specify channel. I think if I press that one it will get me into the edit mode. Then I will need to either press the arrow button or the next up button to go to the next frequency. There are only 3 buttons total so it can't be too hard. Pressing next just brings up the next preset frequency, while pressing the arrow just swaps the active and standby frequency.

There is a Mac 1700 Nav/Comm that was in my plane when I got it. I haven't been able to find a user manual either online or in the paperwork that came with the plane. It has the ability to store up to 10 frequencies in each the nav and comm sides of the radio. The problem is, I have no idea how to program those frequencies. Anyone have one of these or know how to program the frequencies? I'm doing some other fiddlin' with the plane tonight, so if I don't get an answer by then I'll try pushing buttons and see if I can stumble into it.

I was thinking of redundancy as the ability to cross check one instrument to the other, but I see your point. If the primary fails, you're done flying when you land. As a budget conscious pilot (CB), it would be tough to spring for the 900 as it's over 10% of the cost of the plane. However, I wonder how many gauge overhauls it would take to pay for that. I already don't trust my fuel gauges at all as one bounces around and both read 3/4 when I fill the tanks. I certainly don't want to save a few bucks on the engine monitor only to spend that on maintenance when i could have had the nicer monitor all along. Is the smaller G2 easy to read in the plane? Most of the pictures I find online make it look difficult to read the numbers, but that may just be due to crappy pictures.

According to my 13 year old daughter it is 3.141592653589793. Yeah, 22/7 is close enough for me!

I see several of you have recommended the G2 over the JPI 830. Can you explain why? It is a bit cheaper, but it also doesn't include RPM, MP, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, EGT variation, & HP. As I understand it, the JPI doesn't replace any of these primary gauges, but I like the idea of having the redundancy. Also the JPI screen is larger, thus I would think it would be easier to read. As i have zero experience with either one, please educate me.

I really like the clip on mine because it allows for a lot of options. So far, I've clipped it to the passenger seat belt, my flight bag in right seat, the door handle strap (I thought that was creative) and myself. It was designed to be worn on your body, so clipping it to your clothing is an option too. You won't be able to scan for it, but you will definitely feel the vibrations when it alarms. Go ahead, ask me how I know.

The Kiddie CO monitor is a great option for your home, but I wouldn't rely on it in my plane. It will not alert you to a problem until it is an emergency. CO levels that are less than 30 PPM will not even show up on the display. Further, with CO levels around 70 PPM it will take 1-4 hours before the unit will alarm. Below are the pertinent sections of the Kiddie owners manual. By contrast, the Sensorcon unit displays CO levels as low as 1 PPM and alarms instantly when the alarm level is reached. Accuracy of Digital Display: (Model KN-COPP-B-LPM Only) 30-999 PPM +/-30% when measured in conditions of 80° F (+/- 10° F), atmospheric pressure +/- 10% and 40% +/- 3% relative humidity. Display readings may vary slightly depending on changes in the ambient condition (temperature, humidity) and the condition of the sensor. Alarm Response Times: 70 PPM = 60-240 min., 150 PPM = 10-50 min., 400 PPM = 4-15 min. Your plane, your life, you get to decide the level of risk you are willing to take. I'll stick with my Sensorcon detector.